Belgian Dubbel
There is a special place in my heart for the Belgian dubbel style. Way back in the last century when I first switched to all-grain brewing, dubbel was the first style I attempted. I had always enjoyed Belgian beers, but they were expensive in the U.S. and sometimes hard to find. I couldn’t get the desired flavor profile or mouthfeel using extract-based products, so I was eager to try building my own recipe. I tried many variations over the years, varying the strength, balance, ingredients, and methods, and entered these in competitions to validate my impressions.
Homebrew has come a long way from those days, and we now have a much wider range of ingredients available to brewers that make this style more achievable. While my original approach still works, I’ve updated my ingredients and methods to more closely match what is used in Belgium. However, I talk about the evolution of my approach because it could be applicable to brewing other styles, and it shows how similar-tasting beers can be made multiple ways. I’ve always wanted to hit the target flavor profile first, but if I could do it in a more authentic way, that’s even better to me.
Multiple pilgrimages to Belgium to sample a wider range of examples gave me the desire to try to incorporate more of the authentic approaches. It also gave me a deeper appreciation of the characteristics that Belgians appreciate the most in their beers (including the obsessive demand that they be served in the proper glass), and helped me understand how examples taste when fresh and as they age. It’s a rare craft style to find in modern times in the U.S., unless visiting a brewery specializing in Belgian-style beers. This by itself makes dubbel a good choice to make at home.
Belgian dubbel is style 26B in the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) Style Guidelines, within Category 26, Monastic Ale, along with Belgian single, Belgian tripel, and Belgian dark strong ale. Monastic Ale is a compromise name that includes those traditional beers first produced by Trappist breweries and those abbey and secular breweries inspired by them around the world. Dubbel is usually pronounced the same as the English word “double,” and not like “dooble.”
History
While darker and stronger beers certainly existed in Belgium for a long time, the dubbel style can be traced back to when Westmalle first made it in 1922 as a double brown ale. Other breweries such as Chimay and St. Bernardus began making similar beers after World War II. American craft breweries learned of it initially through the writings of Michael Jackson, and imports through Merchant du Vin. Early breweries such as New Belgium and Ommegang helped popularize Belgian beers in general in America.
Religious institutions in Belgium often claim a long history with brewing as part of their tradition. However, few survived intact after the societal upheavals of the intervening years. After the French Revolution in 1789, the government disbanded all religious institutions, something that affected Belgium after the French invaded during the Napoleonic Wars. World War I was also devastating to the brewing industry when German invaders appropriated copper brewing equipment to use for making armaments, causing many breweries to shut down or flee. So, few monasteries can claim any kind of continuous brewing tradition.
Many of the monasteries became established (or re-established) after Belgian independence in 1830. For example, famous Trappist monastery Westmalle was raised to abbey status in 1836, and also constructed a brewery in the same year. Initially, they made a dark, sweet table beer just for themselves. This product was first sold in 1861. The brewery shut down during World War I when the monks fled. It re-opened in 1922, which is also when it introduced a 7% double brown beer using unrefined beet sugar, based on the original beer but stronger. This beer has been called Dubbel since 1926.
The name dubbel is said by some to indicate double the ingredients — or strength, or original gravity (OG) — of that original table beer. I’ve never seen a recipe for that beer, so I don’t know if this story has any truth to it. Perhaps if only original gravity is considered, it could be close. This would also make sense with the tripel for the same reason, since the tripel is more attenuated. This also ties into the Belgian notion of classifying beers by original gravity more than strength, which is the origin of the Belgian Brewing Degrees (essentially, whole numbers indicating the OG range — a 6 was for a 1.060-ish beer, an 8 indicated a 1.080-ish beer, etc.). These Brewing Degrees or Gravity Degrees are sometimes seen in the labeling of products, most famously beers from Rochefort (the 6 is their dubbel). It is just an alternate scale of measurement, like degrees Plato, Balling, or Brix.
Other breweries use color systems to mark their products, whether on the label, the cap, or the name of the beer. Chimay Rouge, Red, or Première is their dubbel. Rochefort 6 uses red as the number color. Westvleteren’s example is marked with a blue cap, and is an 8, which is on the strong side. There is no real uniformity in color markings between breweries, but if a number is listed in this manner, it is the Belgian Brewing Degree.
The name dubbel is not uniformly applied to beers in Belgium since Belgians value originality more than conformity, so you may not always see it on the label from the brewery. While they may or may not believe in styles, many breweries have similar products. Dubbels are usually in the 7% ABV range and are reddish brown in color, so you can check these indicators as well.
The Westmalle Dubbel predates the arguably more famous Westmalle Tripel, which was first made in 1933. However, Westmalle does lay claim to creating the two best known Monastic beer styles, dubbel and tripel, and their products remain the benchmark examples to this day. Their product names are borrowed to describe the beer styles in general, so some care should be taken when understanding whether the style or the example are being discussed.
Sensory Profile
Belgian dubbels are moderately strong (6–7.5% ABV), reddish-copper colored, malt-forward beers with a complex, estery-spicy yeast profile and a dry finish. They share common features of other monastic beers in that they are top-fermenting, have a high degree of attenuation, are bottle-conditioned, and show a fairly aggressive yeast character that accentuates esters and phenols.
The color, strength, and malt balance distinguish them from other monastic beers. Belgian dark strong ales (or quads) share a similar color but are stronger and often richer. Tripels are stronger, paler, and more bitter. Singles are weaker, paler, and more bitter. Dubbels are similar in strength and balance to Belgian blonds, but are darker with a richer malt flavor and tend to use yeast with a more aggressive profile. Perhaps dubbels have a balance similar to German dunkel bocks, but use a Belgian ale yeast rather than a neutral lager yeast.
Dubbels tend not to be hoppy or overly bitter since the malt and yeast provide sufficient interest to the drinker. While some examples can exceed 7.5%, when versions get above 8% they start getting confused with Belgian dark strong ales. A strong alcohol flavor or warmth is not expected in a dubbel. Some think of dubbels as sweet beers, but they are usually malty and rich, not actually sweet. A dry finish is prized in most Belgian beers (Belgians call these beers more digestible), but the beers can have a malty palate and finish due to lower bitterness levels.
The malt flavor of a dubbel is moderate to moderately strong, and has an impression of richness with flavors of caramel, toast, or occasionally light chocolate, but never roasted or burnt flavors. The moderate fruity esters complement the maltiness, and can be like dark or dried fruits (raisins, plums, cherries), ripe banana, orange, or pome fruit (apple, pear, quince). Spicy, peppery phenols are low to moderate and complement the malt and esters. Hops may add a little spicy, floral, or herbal complexity, but they can also be absent. The bitterness is medium-low to moderate, which helps give a malty finish.
The body is medium to medium-full with medium-high carbonation that can add to the impression of body. Bottle conditioning gives a characteristic creamy sensation with its fine bubbles. The overall balance should be malty to nearly even with bitterness, with a relatively dry finish that leaves a malty aftertaste with yeast complexity.
Brewing Ingredients and Methods
Belgian brewing methods are most appropriate for this style, which includes the selection of ingredients, the use of candi sugars or syrups, infusion mashing, and fermentation regimes that encourage ester development.
When I first started making Belgian beers, I tended to use English methods since I could see similarities in their approaches. For darker beers, I tended to pick pale ale malt because that is what British brewers would use as an equivalent base. But when I visited Belgian breweries, I found most just using Dingemans Pilsner malt as the base for everything. I think both work, so use a pale Belgian malt, with Pilsner malt being most authentic as the base. Richer base malts help increase the maltiness in darker styles, so I’m thinking Munich-type malts. Personally, I like including some dark Munich malt (like Weyermann Munich II, but other maltsters make similar products) in my beers, as I think the flavor is welcome.
Early recipes of mine used a variety of additional malts that I was able to source at the time to achieve complexity of malt flavor and color I wanted, including malts such as aromatic, CaraMunich, Special B®, and chocolate wheat. I would also use the rock-type candi sugar available at the time. However, once the candi syrups became available, I began simplifying my recipes to use these, which is the Belgian approach. Note that some Belgian brewers will add light amounts of dark malt for color adjustment. I know that reddish colors can come from small additions of black malts, but you really don’t want the burnt and roast flavors, so tread lightly.
Belgian brewers tend to use infusion mashes, sometimes with steps, so that is the approach I use as well. I usually convert at lower saccharification temperatures (147–149 °F/64–65 °C) to drive attenuation, which is accentuated by the use of sugars and syrups. I often include dextrin-rich malts to provide some body since I don’t want the beer to be too thin on the palate.
Hops are not a major part of this style, so the choice can vary between hops from Belgium, Germany, or England. Hops that have spicy, floral, or herbal characteristics are most desirable and authentic, as these complement the yeast character.
Yeast strains described as Trappist, abbey, or Belgian high gravity are likely to give a decent ester-phenol profile for this beer. The fermentation temperatures and methods can vary from brewery-to-brewery, so a wide range is possible. Belgian yeast strains often produce different characters under different conditions, so experience with the specific strain you are using helps. For instance, I know several breweries using yeast from Westmalle and Orval, but brewed under different conditions. If you can determine the source of a strain of yeast, getting one associated with one of the Trappist breweries often produces superior results.
Fermenter geometry can vary between breweries, but some Belgians are known to use shallow fermenters, not necessarily like coolships or spontaneous fermentation, just reducing the pressure to encourage ester development while also reducing the temperature increases during fermentation. In my experience, this can lead to differences in results when fermenting at “ambient” temperatures since shallow fermenters do not experience as big a rise in temperature as more narrow ones. Belgians tend to use periods of cool and warm conditioning to allow the yeast character to ripen and develop, while allowing the yeast to clean up some of their fermentation byproducts.
I tend to use carboys, start cool, and let the temperature free rise during fermentation to drive attenuation. Some strains do not like to be constrained in temperature, and will stop fermenting prematurely. Some yeast strains are stickier than others, and can lead to increased blowoff during fermentation. The Wyeast 3787 (Belgian High Gravity) strain I am most familiar with has both of these characteristics.
Some breweries use spice additions, but I don’t think this style needs it. For example, Rochefort is known to add trace amounts of coriander seed to their beers. However, this character should never really be identifiable as such. If it is, too much was used. I mention it because some people believe the Belgian character comes from spices, when it is actually from the yeast.
Be wary of being told Belgians brew a certain way. I have seen very different methods used at various breweries, often with little attempt at commonality. Belgian brewers embrace individuality, not conformism, and are often skeptical of the notion of styles. It’s OK to be creative and to experiment, but you will be judged by your results.
Homebrew Example
My recipe is inspired by Westmalle, but is not a clone. I’m using the Westmalle yeast and their fermentation and conditioning schedule, but I’m targeting a beer that is a little less bitter than their current formulation (30 IBUs). If the yeast I specify is not available, another fruity-spicy Belgian strain is appropriate. I quite enjoyed the Achouffe yeast (Wyeast 3522 Belgian Ardennes) for its esters, and I think the Rochefort yeast (Wyeast 1762 Belgian Abbey Style Ale II) is another good choice.
My base malt is Pilsner malt from a Belgian maltster like Dingemans or Castle. Don’t use a more heavily-flavored Pilsner malt, like the Weyermann Floor-Malted Bohemian Pilsner Malt or the Weyermann Barke® Pilsner malt – the flavor will be too biscuity or toasty. I use Weyermann Munich II for the dark Munich malt, which is an important driver of the malt flavor. I use any German Munich malt (Weyermann, Best, Durst, etc.) for the light Munich malt, but Belgian maltsters such as Dingemans will be more authentic, if they are available to you.
I use candi syrups for the fruity and caramelly flavors, with a mix of amber and dark specified. Don’t use the extra dark (D-180 or higher) syrups, as I find these more appropriate for Belgian dark strong ales. If you have a choice in suppliers, look for something in the 45 SRM and 90 SRM ranges for the amber and dark varieties. In darker Belgian beers, I don’t use intensive step mashing programs, but infusion mashing at the lower end of the saccharification range is appropriate to get the proper attenuation.
In a malty style, the hops take on a supporting role. I’m fond of the combination of Styrian Goldings and Saaz, so that’s what I’m using. Other noble-type hops would work as well, but I would avoid anything with a modern American or New World character. The balance should be malty, with a very light late-hop note.
I hope you enjoy this style as much as I do. Just don’t serve it in the wrong glass. . .
Belgian Dubbel by the Numbers
OG: 1.062–1.075
FG: 1.008–1.018
SRM: 10–17
IBU: 15–25
ABV: 6–7.6%
Belgian Dubbel
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.066 FG = 1.012
IBU = 22 SRM = 17 ABV = 7%
Ingredients
7.7 lbs. (3.5 kg) Belgian Pilsner malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) German Munich malt
2 lbs. (0.9 kg) German dark Munich malt
4 oz. (113 g) CaraPils® malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) amber (D-45) candi syrup
1 lb. (0.45 kg) dark (D-90) candi syrup
5.7 AAU Styrian Goldings hops (60 min.) (1.5 oz./43 g at 3.8% alpha acids)
0.5 oz. (14 g) Saaz hops (15 min.)
0.5 oz. (14 g) Saaz hops (2 min.)
Wyeast 3787 (Belgian High Gravity), White Labs WLP530 (Abbey Ale), Imperial Yeast B48 (Triple Double), or LalBrew Abbaye yeast
7⁄8 cup corn sugar (for priming)
Step by Step
This recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO) water. Adjust all brewing water to a pH of 5.5 using phosphoric acid. Add 1 tsp. of calcium chloride to the mash.
This recipe uses an infusion mash with mashout. Use enough water to have a moderately thick mash (1.5 qts/lb). Mash in the malts at 149 °F (65 °C) and hold for 60 minutes. Raise the temperature to 169 °F (76 °C) and recirculate for 15 minutes. Sparge slowly and collect 6.5 gallons (24.5 L) of wort.
Boil the wort for 90 minutes, adding hops at the times indicated. Add the candi syrups with 15 minutes left in the boil.
Chill the wort to 64 °F (18 °C), pitch the yeast, and ferment until complete, allowing the temperature to rise as much as it wants, rousing the yeast if necessary to complete. Rack to secondary and cold condition for two weeks at 50 °F (10 °C).
Rack the beer again, prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate. Repitching fresh yeast at bottling may be needed if bottle conditioning. Warm condition for two weeks at 70 °F (21 °C). Flavor peaks at about 3–6 months age.
Belgian Dubbel
(5 gallons/19 L, extract only)
OG = 1.066 FG = 1.012
IBU = 22 SRM = 17 ABV = 7%
Ingredients
3.3 lbs. (1.5 kg) extra light or Pilsner liquid malt extract
4 lbs. (1.8 kg) Munich liquid malt extract
1 lb. (0.45 kg) amber (D-45) candi syrup
1 lb. (0.45 kg) dark (D-90) candi syrup
5.7 AAU Styrian Goldings hops (60 min.) (1.5 oz./43 g at 3.8% alpha acids)
0.5 oz. (14 g) Saaz hops (15 min.)
0.5 oz. (14 g) Saaz hops (2 min.)
Wyeast 3787 (Belgian High Gravity), White Labs WLP530 (Abbey Ale), Imperial Yeast B48 (Triple Double), or LalBrew Abbaye yeast
7⁄8 cup corn sugar (for priming)
Step by Step
Use 6.5 gallons (24.5 L) of water in the brew kettle; heat to 158 °F (70 °C). Turn off the heat, add the malt extract, and stir thoroughly to dissolve completely. Turn the heat back on and bring to a boil.
Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at the times indicated. Add the candi syrups with 15 minutes left in the boil.
Chill the wort to 64 °F (18 °C), pitch the yeast, and ferment until complete, allowing the temperature to rise as much as it wants, rousing the yeast if necessary to complete. Rack to secondary and cold condition for two weeks at 50 °F (10 °C).
Follow the packaging and aging suggestions given in the all-grain recipe version.
