Brewing with Coconut
It pours a clear, dark cola brown with ruby red highlights (when held to the light) and a creamy tan head. Smells milky sweet with fudge, dark chocolate, roasted malts, and toasted coconut. Take a sip. In the flavor are dark brown sugars, coconut, iced coffee, and bitter dark chocolate. The body is light to medium, but not watery. It is balanced and creamy, with a dry finish. What is it I’m describing? It’s well-crafted coconut porter.
During my last trip to Hawaii, this style became my new inspiration as a homebrewer. I spent four weeks on the island of Kauai (had to come home sometime!), and did my best to try all of the Hawaiian craft beers available. But the one that stood out above the rest was Maui Brewing Company’s Coconut Hiwi Porter. If you live in a state in which they distribute, you’ve likely seen their cans in stores and hopefully tried it. When I returned to life and hobby after vacation, I set to work.
Dark Beers on Hot Days
There is a history to drinking dark, roasty beer in hot weather. While the yellow “lawnmower beer” gets all the advertising dollars, and is the thirst quencher most of us are thinking of when we break a sweat, many brewers are aware that a certain selection of dark beers can also be extremely satisfying summertime beers — plus, they have a lot more flavor! Tropical versions of export stout, sweet milk stouts, and my own favorite coconut porter are great options. As far back as 1801, Guinness was brewing a stronger, and significantly fruitier tasting version of their porter for export to the far-flung reaches of the empire, originally bound for the West Indies. The beer was brewed stronger with the intent of surviving hot temperatures and long travel. The tradition survived and today there are some excellent tropical stouts being brewed in those old export markets such as Sri Lanka (try Lion Stout) and Jamaica (try Dragon Stout). Milk stouts work out well for drinking in heat due to the milk sugar (lactose), which remains unfermented during fermentation and leaves the finish sweet rather than dry and bitter. Coconut porter, however, is a relatively new invention — a product of the abundant creativity of the craft beer movement. I suppose it was inevitable that some Hawaiian brewmaster, surrounded by tourists refreshing themselves with coconut water drank straight from the coconuts, would be unable to stop himself from putting that coconut in the beer.
The Research
Reviewing the available recipes and advice I could find to try and brew my own coconut porter, I settled on two methods of adding coconut to beer that seemed to be of great promise — direct addition in the secondary/keg, and addition of an alcohol extract. These two methods would work well in other styles as well.
As for the base beer, I reviewed a number of homebrew recipes but relied more on my sensory evaluation along with basic statistics from Maui Brewing Co. to develop a light-bodied yet rich base porter.
In order to lighten the body and reduce the roast astringency, without losing too much of the coffee and chocolate complexity a porter needs, I opted to make use of dark candi syrup in the place of a portion of black malts. I also settled on use of some highly fermentable corn sugar in lieu of a portion of base barley malt. Further, to ensure that the beer flavors remained clean and easy drinking, I decided to use a neutral lager yeast and ferment it cool.
The Results
I brewed the base beer without coconut, so it was easy to assess the porter alone. It was a rather light-bodied porter. While alone it did not make a stand-out product, it was the base beer I was looking for — a medium intensity, easy-drinking, chocolaty porter that was ready to be “filled in” with toasted coconut goodness! The batch was 10 gallons (38 L), so I split it into two 5-gallon (19-L) kegs and proceeded with my two chosen methods of coconut addition.
ALCOHOL EXTRACT: While the beer was fermenting, I created a coconut extract. I used shredded coconut from my local grocery store. I selected unsweetened coconut, dried but with no preservatives. To make the extract was very simple. I filled a 1-gallon (3.8-L) glass jar with shredded coconut and filled it with a moderate quality vodka until the coconut was covered. As the coconut hydrated, I occasionally added more vodka just to keep it saturated. After a couple of weeks of fermentation, both the extract and the base beer were ready for the flavor addition. In the first keg I added the coconut extract to-taste during packaging (about 2–4 oz./60–120 mL of extract in 5 gallons/19 L will keep your alcohol increase below 0.5%).
DIRECT ADDITION OF TOASTED COCONUT: Maui Brewing Company uses “hand toasted” coconut in their coconut porter. My direct addition method took this into account. To prepare the shredded coconut for direct addition into the keg, I toasted it on a cookie sheet at low oven temperatures (approximately 225–250 °F/107–120 °C).
Flipping often is necessary to avoid excessive browning. It takes about 15 minutes to reach a golden to light-brown color (you may experiment anywhere from 10–30 minutes, but judging by the color will be important). I then placed the fresh toasted coconut in a boiled nylon straining bag (such as those used for steeping grains or hops) and added it to the keg before the beer. To prepare for later removal of the bag, sanitized teflon tape or dental floss can be tied between the straining bag and the outside handle of the keg. The keg lid will still seal in place under pressure.
The porter with the coconut extract added was ready immediately, but the batch with the direct addition needed several days to soak. When both beers were ready, I held a blind taste testing with homebrew friends and unsuspecting victims. Generally, the beers were very similar except that the coconut intensity was much higher with the direct addition. The batch with alcohol extract added remained relatively light-bodied, whereas the direct addition of coconut had a much fuller richness on the palate. Early on, however, the alcohol extract version had cleaner flavors in general. I found that after two weeks in the keg (after coconut removal), the direct addition batch dropped a fair amount of coconut solids and the flavors cleaned up wonderfully. At this point, I declared it the winner! If you use this method, though, be sure to let it age in the fridge for a couple weeks after coconut removal to precipitate solids.
I have since brewed a Maui Coconut Hiwi Porter clone multiple times (recipe on page 68), which is based on the direct addition of coconut into a keg at packaging time. If you do not keg, I would proceed with making the coconut extract — it is still very good! For extract brewers, the recipe can be adapted slightly to use dark dry malt extract and the specialty malts can be steeped as a mini-mash as usual.
And if you want to get creative and step outside of the porter realm, try one of the other two great clone recipes below.
Free Will Brewing Co.’s C.O.B. (Coffee Oatmeal Brown) with Coconut & Chocolate clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.082 FG = 1.020
IBU = 26 SRM = 20 ABV = 8.6%
Ingredients
13 lbs. (5.9 kg) Maris Otter pale malt
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) Briess Carabrown® malt
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) flaked oats
0.5 lb. (0.23 kg) UK brown malt
0.25 lb. (0.11 kg) British crystal malt (45 °L)
0.25 lb. (0.11 kg) pale chocolate malt
6.5 AAU Pilgrim hops (90 min.) (0.5 oz./14 g at 11% alpha acids)
2.75 AAU Pilgrim hops (5 min.) (0.25 oz./7 g at 11% alpha acids)
2 lbs. (0.9 kg) Baker’s shaved coconut (secondary)
1 lb. (0.45 kg) Ghana cacao nibs or 0.5 lb. (0.23 kg) unsweetened cocoa powder (secondary)
Wyeast 1968 (London ESB Ale) or White Labs WLP002 (English Ale) or Lallemand Windsor yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Mill the grains and mix with 5.3 gallons (20 L) of 164 °F (73 °C) strike water to reach a mash temperature of 152 °F (67 °C). Hold this temperature for 60 minutes. Vorlauf until your runnings are clear. Sparge the grains with 3 gallons (11.3 L) and top up as necessary to obtain 6 gallons (23 L) of wort. Boil for 90 minutes, adding hops according to the ingredient list.
After the boil, chill the wort to slightly below fermentation temperature, about 65 °F (18 °C). Aerate the wort with pure oxygen or filtered air and pitch yeast.
Ferment at 68 °F (20 °C) for 7 days, then drop the temperature to 60 °F (16 °C) for 24 hours. Add the cacao nibs and coconut, and age for 14 days. Crash the beer to 35 °F (2 °C) for 48 hours, and bottle or keg the beer and carbonate to approximately 2.25 volumes.
Free Will Brewing Co.’s C.O.B. (Coffee Oatmeal Brown) with Coconut & Chocolate clone
(5 gallons/19 L, partial mash)
OG = 1.082 FG = 1.020
IBU = 26 SRM = 20 ABV = 8.6%
Ingredients
6.6 lbs. (3 kg) pale liquid malt extract
3.5 lbs. (1.6 kg) Maris Otter pale malt
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) Briess Carabrown® malt
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) flaked oats
0.5 lb. (0.23 kg) UK brown malt
0.25 lb. (0.11 kg) British crystal malt (45 °L)
0.25 lb. (0.11 kg) pale chocolate malt
6.5 AAU Pilgrim hops (90 min.) (0.5 oz./14 g at 11% alpha acids)
2.75 AAU Pilgrim hops (5 min.) (0.25 oz./7 g at 11% alpha acids)
2 lbs. (0.9 kg) Baker’s shaved coconut (secondary)
1 lb. (0.45 kg) Ghana cacao nibs or 0.5 lb. (0.23 kg) unsweetened cocoa powder (secondary)
Wyeast 1968 (London ESB Ale) or White Labs WLP002 (English Ale) or Lallemand Windsor yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Mill the grains and place in one or more grain bags. Mix with 2.3 gallons (8.9 L) of 164 °F (73 °C) strike water to reach a mash temperature of 152 °F (67 °C). Hold this temperature for 60 minutes. Remove the grain bags, and place into a colander. Wash the grains with 2 gallons (7.6 L) hot water and let drain fully. Add liquid extract and stir until completely dissolved and top off to 6 gallons (23 L) of wort. Bring to a boil and boil for 90 minutes, adding hops according to the ingredient list.
After the boil, chill the wort to slightly below fermentation temperature, about 65 °F (18 °C). Aerate the wort with pure oxygen or filtered air and pitch yeast.
Ferment at 68 °F (20 °C) for 7 days, then drop the temperature to 60 °F (16 °C) for 24 hours. Add the cacao nibs and coconut, and age for 14 days. Crash the beer to 35 °F (2 °C) for 48 hours, and bottle or keg the beer and carbonate to approximately 2.25 volumes.
Tips for Success:
Brewmaster John Stemler notes that the brewery, when adding the coconut and cacao to the beer, bags and autoclaves the ingredients – but due to standard food processing requirements it is highly likely that you can add them directly from unopened containers.
Maui Brewing Co.’s Coconut Hiwi Porter clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.057 FG = 1.014
IBU = 32 SRM = 26 ABV = 5.8%
Maui Brewing Co.’s flagship porter, flavored with hand-toasted coconut.
Ingredients
8 lbs. (3.6 kg) Maris Otter pale malt
12 oz. (0.34 kg) pale chocolate malt
4 oz. (113 g) caramel malt (80 °L)
4 oz. (113 g) Special B malt
2 oz. (57 kg) chocolate malt
8 oz. (0.23 kg) dark candi syrup (15 min.)
1 lb. (0.45 kg) corn sugar (15 min.)
8.3 AAU Golding hop pellets (60 min.) (1.15 oz./33 g at 7.2% alpha acids)
1 lb. (0.45 kg) shredded coconut, toasted (secondary)
Wyeast 2007 (Pilsen Lager) or Wyeast 1272 (American Ale II) yeast
3⁄4 cups corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
On brew day, prepare your ingredients; mill the grain, measure your hops, and prepare your water. This recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO) water. Add 1 tsp. gypsum (CaSO4), 1⁄2 tsp. calcium chloride (CaCl2) and 2 tsp. calcium carbonate (CaCO3) to the mash per 10 gallons of RO water.
Heat to 3.5 gallons (13.3 L) strike water to achieve a stable mash temperature at 152 °F (67 °C). Raise to mash out and begin to lauter. Boil for 90 minutes, adding the hops after 30 minutes at a boil, and the corn sugar and dark candi syrup with 15 minutes left in the boil. After you turn off the heat, chill the wort to yeast pitching temperature and oxygenate heavily. Ferment at 50–55 °F (10–13 °C) if using the lager strain and 60–65 °F (16–18 °C) if using the ale strain.
After fermentation is complete, toast the shredded coconut (non-sweetened, no preservative) at low oven temperature (~250 °F/121 °C) flipping often to avoid burning, until golden brown. The reaction may take as little as 10–15 minutes or as much as 25–30 minutes. Add the coconut to secondary in a sanitized bag. Age on the coconut for 24 hours to 4 days. If flavor is lacking, follow up with coconut extract at packaging time. It is recommended to lager the beer for a couple weeks before drinking to clarify and help remove coconut solids. Bottle with priming sugar or force carbonate the serving keg to 2.4 volumes CO2.
Maui Brewing co.’s Coconut Hiwi Porter clone
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.057 FG = 1.014
IBU = 32 SRM = 29 ABV = 5.8%
Ingredients
4.5 lbs. (2 kg) dark dried malt extract (17 °L)
12 oz. (0.34 kg) pale chocolate malt
4 oz. (113 g) caramel malt (80 °L)
4 oz. (113 g) Special B malt
2 oz. (57 kg) chocolate malt
8 oz. (0.23 kg) dark candi syrup (15 min.)
1 lb. (0.45 kg) corn sugar (15 min.)
8.3 AAU Golding hop pellets (60 min.) (1.15 oz./33 g at 7.2% alpha acids)
1 lb. (0.45 kg) shredded coconut, toasted (secondary)
Wyeast 2007 (Pilsen Lager) or Wyeast 1272 (American Ale II) yeast
3⁄4 cups corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
On brew day, prepare your ingredients; mill the grain, measure your hops, and prepare your water. This recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO) water. Add 1 tsp. gypsum (CaSO4), 1⁄2 tsp. calcium chloride (CaCl2) and 2 tsp. calcium carbonate (CaCO3) to the mash per 10 gallons of RO water.
Heat to 5.5 gallons (21 L) brewing water and place the crushed grain in a muslin bag. Steep the grains in the brewing water for 20 minutes as the water heats up. Remove the grain bag when the temperature reaches 170 °F (77 °C). Remove from heat and stir in the dried malt extract. Once the extract is fully dissolved, bring the wort to a boil and boil for 60 minutes, adding the hops once a boil is achieved. Add the corn sugar and dark candi syrup with 15 minutes left in the boil. After you turn off the heat, chill the wort to yeast pitching temperature and oxygenate heavily. Ferment at 50-55 °F (10-13 °C) if using the lager strain and 60-65 °F (16-18 °C) if using the ale strain.
After fermentation is complete, toast the shredded coconut (non-sweetened, no preservative) at low oven temperature (~250 °F/121 °C) flipping often to avoid burning, until golden brown. The reaction may take as little as 10–15 minutes or as much as 25–30 minutes. Add the coconut to secondary in a sanitized bag. Age on the coconut for 24 hours to 4 days. If flavor is lacking, follow up with coconut extract at packaging time. It is recommended to lager the beer for a couple weeks before drinking to clarify and help remove coconut solids. Bottle with priming sugar or force carbonate the serving keg to 2.4 volumes CO2.
Tips for Success:
Instead of a direct addition of coconut, you could also add the coconut to this recipe as a homemade extract. To do this, the day before brew day fill a 1-gallon (3.8-L) glass jar with shredded coconut and a moderate quality vodka. Let the coconut steep in the vodka until your beer is finished fermenting, and then add the extract to the finished beer to taste.
Westbrook Brewing Co.’s 4th Anniversary clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.101 FG = 1.025
IBU = 84 SRM = 61 ABV = 11%
Ingredients
15 lbs. (6.8 kg) American 2-row pale malt
2 lbs. (0.91 kg) chocolate malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) extra dark crystal malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) flaked oats
1 lb. (0.45 kg) dextrose sugar
0.5 lb. (0.23 kg) roasted barley
22.5 AAU Columbus hops (60 min.) (1.5 oz./43 g at 15% alpha acids)
2.5 oz. (70 g) toasted coconut (0 min.)
1 oz. (28 g) cocoa nibs (secondary)
0.5 oz. (14 g) vanilla beans (secondary)
5 oz. (141 g) unsalted almonds, chopped (secondary)
Wyeast 1318 (London Ale III) or White Labs WLP022 (Essex Ale) yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Mill the grains and mix with 6.1 gallons (23.1 L) of 164 °F (73 °C) strike water to reach a mash temperature of 152 °F (67 °C). Hold this temperature for 60 minutes. Vorlauf until your runnings are clear. Stir the dextrose into the kettle, then sparge the grains with 3 gallons (11.3 L) of water and top up as necessary to obtain 6 gallons (23 L) of wort. Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding hops according to the ingredient list.
After the boil, turn off heat and whirlpool for 15 minutes, adding the coconut (loose-pack) in a mesh bag. After the whirlpool, remove the bag and let it drain into the wort. Chill the wort to slightly below fermentation temperature, about 65 °F (18 °C). Aerate the wort with pure oxygen or filtered air and pitch yeast.
Ferment at 68 °F (20 °C) for 7 days, then drop the temperature to 60 °F (16 °C) for 24 hours. Add the cocoa nibs, almonds, and vanilla beans, and age for 5–7 days. Crash the beer to 35 °F (2 °C) for 48 hours, and bottle or keg the beer and carbonate to approximately 2.25 volumes.
Westbrook Brewing Co.’s 4th Anniversary clone
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.101 FG = 1.025
IBU = 84 SRM = 61 ABV = 11%
Ingredients
11.5 lbs. (5.2 kg) pale liquid malt extract
2 lbs. (0.91 kg) chocolate malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) extra dark crystal malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) flaked oats
0.5 lb. (0.23 kg) roasted barley
22.5 AAU Columbus hops (60 min.) (1.5 oz./43 g at 15% alpha acids)
2.5 oz. (70 g) toasted coconut (0 min.)
1 oz. (28 g) cocoa nibs (secondary)
0.5 oz. (14 g) vanilla beans (secondary)
5 oz. (141 g) unsalted almonds, chopped (secondary)
Wyeast 1318 (London Ale III) or White Labs WLP022 (Essex Ale) yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Bring 5.4 gallons of water to approximately 162 °F (72 °C) and hold there while steeping the milled specialty grains in grain bags for 15 minutes. Remove the grain bags, and let drain fully. Add liquid malt extract off heat while stirring, and stir until completely dissolved being careful not to burn it. Bring the wort to a boil and boil for 60 minutes, adding hops according to the ingredient list.
After the boil, turn off heat and whirlpool for 15 minutes, adding the coconut (loose-pack) in a mesh bag. After the whirlpool, remove the bag and let it drain into the wort. Chill the wort to slightly below fermentation temperature, about 65 °F (18 °C). Aerate the wort with pure oxygen or filtered air and pitch yeast.
Ferment at 68 °F (20 °C) for 7 days, then drop the temperature to 60 °F (16 °C) for 24 hours. Add the cocoa nibs, almonds, and vanilla beans, and age for 5-7 days. Crash the beer to 35 °F (2 °C) for 48 hours, and bottle or keg the beer and carbonate to approximately 2.25 volumes.
Tips for Success:
After a number of attempts, the brewers at Westbrook Brewing Co. (Mount Pleasant, South Carolina) found that nothing beats toasted coconut for the most/best coconut flavor. Head Cellarman Josh Weaver also notes that they use vodka to sanitize the secondary ingredient additions and simply add the complete tincture to the beer, preserving as much of the flavors extracted as possible!
