Cream Ale: An American original
It’s hard to write about cream ale without mentioning my good friend Curt Stock and his late wife Kathy, who together pretty much owned this style during competitions in the mid-to-late 2000s. You could always count on Curt and Kathy to have a medal-contending cream ale ready for a big competition, along with a double IPA and a variety of fruit meads. I credit Curt with teaching me about blending fruit mead with beer to create a fruit beer. I remember him winning a medal in Kansas City with a blackberry cream ale. When asked about the recipe, he said, “You’re not going to like it — it’s my cream ale blended with some blackberry mead.” Brilliant.
What people opposed to blending might not appreciate is that you need good starting components to blend together, and Curt had a terrific cream ale and his meads were not too shabby either. In addition to his mixology lessons, I also found inspiration in his always having a good option available on tap for those looking for lighter flavors. Growing up in New York State, I had my share of experiences with Genesee Cream Ale, not always favorable. He showed me how good a neglected style could be, if brewed well.
Later in life, living in southwest Ohio, I discovered Little Kings Cream Ale. It made me wonder how far the style existed — turns out, pretty much limited to the region from New York to Ohio, including Pennsylvania. But it also had been around for many years, although not always in the same form. Yet it always was trying to serve the same purpose, to provide an alternative to light lagers by providing many of the same flavors in an ale format.
The Beer Judge Certification Program groups cream ale in Category 1 (Standard American Beer) along with American lagers and American wheat beer. While prepared differently, these styles together fill a similar role — they are broadly accessible to a wide audience, and are often some of the first beers someone tries. Cream ale is Style 1C in the guidelines.
Cream Ale History
Like many other styles, cream ale has changed over time and has come to mean something different than when originally made. Having its roots in the northeastern part of the United States in the second half of the 1800s, it was impacted by Prohibition and was later reborn in a different form. However, it is one of the few historical styles that did originate in the United States rather than being a derivative of a European style of beer.
American brewing had its roots in English traditions and styles. This changed in the second half of the 1800s as German immigrants brought their own brewing traditions and began creating lager beer. The paler, smoother, easier to drink beers became popular in America, as in other countries in the world, displacing traditional ales.
While the rise of cream ales was documented, there does not seem to be a good identification of the first brewery where it was made or how exactly the name came into being.
Cream ale was created as a response to the popularity of 19th century lagers produced in the United States. Not based on European styles, cream ale did use adjuncts (corn and sugar, primarily) to lighten the body and flavor of the beer and to provide a less heavy mouthfeel. Remember that domestic American barley of the time was six-row barley with a high protein content and a coarser character – lagers routinely used corn (or rice) to lighten the profile, make the beer easier to clear, and (probably most importantly) to save money on the recipe.
In 1901, Wahl and Henius wrote about cream ale in the American Handy Book of Brewing, Malting, and Auxiliary Trades. They described it as a top-fermented American beer that was made from 70–75% malt and 25–30% sugar or cereal grains. They did draw a distinction between cream, lively, or present-use ales, and the brilliant or sparkling ales. Cream ales were described as being like mild ales of England at around 1.056 in gravity (note that mild ale in this context doesn’t mean dark mild; it means an unaged beer served quickly after fermentation). The brilliant or sparkling ales were 1.052–1.060 and were lagered ales (similar to the way Kölsch is produced).
The beers were quite similar in flavor, were bright and sparkling (clear, effervescent), and had an “ale taste” with the lighter mouthfeel and higher carbonation seen as making the beer more refreshing. Steam beer was also described in a similar manner (where “steam” was mentioned as the level of pressure, or carbonation, in the beer). The cream ale described by Wahl and Henius has more in common with modern blonde ales, except that blonde ales tend to be all malt.
While the rise of cream ales was documented, there does not seem to be a good identification of the first brewery where it was made or how exactly the name came into being. I’ve seen a few stories, but they all seem highly speculative, which is a big problem with trying to identify naming characteristics from two centuries ago. It’s best to just say that the reasons are lost to history.
After Prohibition, these different styles seem to have been generally lost. Genesee Cream Ale was created in 1960 as a blend between their existing lager and ale products. Schoenling’s Little Kings Cream Ale, in its iconic little green bottles, was created around the same time in 1958. New Glarus Spotted Cow is a Wisconsin-produced version using flaked barley. Most other versions that existed after World War II seem to have disappeared, although Sleeman Cream Ale from Canada might still be found. The craft-beer era has produced few new examples, although Indianapolis-produced Sun King Sunlight Cream Ale is a notable exception. Narragansett Cream Ale from Rhode Island is a more modern take on the more bitter pre-Prohibition examples.
Sensory Profile
Cream ale is a pale, clear, smooth, highly-attenuated, and highly carbonated beer. It is designed to be very drinkable and refreshing, and a slightly more flavorful alternative to the more common mass-market American lagers. It tends to be a slightly stronger beer in its classic form, but modern examples are around 5% ABV. Hop character and bitterness is low, giving a balance that is perfect as a “lawnmower beer” or warm-weather quencher.
With its roots as a brilliant or sparkling ale, cream ale should be very clear and effervescent. The color is pale straw to moderate gold — the lighter shade is most typical. The effervescence should help form a white head, although the adjunct level tends to keep it from persisting too long since corn and rice dilute the foam-positive protein.
The aroma is mild with light hops and grain. Subtlety is the key, but the aroma should not be completely void of aromatics. A light fruity note can belie its ale roots, and the hops can show some floral notes. Malt can be lightly grainy, or have that subtle Pils malt crackery sweetness. A touch of corn is often found, which can sometimes be taken as a cooked corn or DMS (Dimethyl Sulfide) note. Not all corn is DMS, so don’t be fooled into thinking a faulted example is acceptable (we’ve done enough damage with hazy IPAs already, thank you).
With a generally clean fermentation profile, light hopping, and high attenuation, the beer should not have too much remaining flavor. The hop levels should be high enough to avoid the beer seeming sweet, but it should also not be a strongly malty beer either. Like a good Kölsch, the balance can change from brewery to brewery, but never stray too far from the average. Strong flavors are a fault but each brewer chooses to emphasize some characteristic of interest.
The body should be relatively light with a crisp finish, although they can taste a bit fuller than standard American lagers. High carbonation is common, as is a smooth lager-like mouthfeel. The aftertaste is fairly neutral; lingering flavors are uncommon. Crispness should encourage another taste.
Brewing Ingredients and Methods
Think of brewing a cream ale like creating an American adjunct lager. Pale malt with body- and flavor-lightening adjuncts is the rule. Traditionally the base malt would have been six-row brewer’s malt, but modern American 2-row or Pilsner malt gives it a more refined profile. Curt Stock likes to go fancy and use German Pilsner malt as the base. Maybe that’s one of the reasons his beer stood out.
Lightening the beer with 25–30% corn, rice, and/or sugar is common. Historical recipes have used corn and sugar, although Curt likes to use corn and rice. I like the smooth flavors derived from corn, while rice and sugar will tend to provide more of a neutral flavor. Complicated cereal mashes can be used to take advantage of unmalted cereal grains, or the more common homebrewer technique is to use ready-to-mash rolled cereal grains. Rice syrup is also ready to add to the boil.
Other small character grain additions are sometimes made, but these often add too much flavor. I’ve experimented with a dash of Vienna malt, but I tend to think that the more neutral examples taste more authentic. If you choose to add additional character malts, go very light (a few percent only) before you judge the impact. Adding darker malts is interesting, but moves the beer more into the Kentucky common style.
If using flaked grains, mashing can be accomplished using a single infusion mash program in the 151–153 °F (66–67 °C) range. Step mashing can improve attenuation when using flaked grains, so adding in a 10- to 15-minute rest between 122–131 °F (50–55 °C) can help. Decoction mashing is not traditional.
Hopping is restrained, with IBUs typically falling in the 15–20 range. Historical versions can be higher at 20–30 IBUs, but modern palates aren’t looking for a bitter beer in this style. Historical versions would likely use Cluster hops for bittering with imported European noble hops for aroma. Modern versions often just use European hops; I tend to hop mine like a helles, and use Hallertauer, Tettnanger, or Spalt. American derivatives of these types of hops would also work.
A neutral, clean-fermenting ale yeast is most common. There are plenty of offerings such as White Labs WLP001 (California Ale), Wyeast 1056 (American Ale), Imperial Yeast A07 (Flagship), Fermentis SafAle US-05, or Mangrove Jack’s M44 (US West Coast) yeast. White Labs makes WLP080 (Cream Ale Blend) that incorporates both ale and lager yeasts, and is an interesting choice for those looking to have the Genesee-like character. Otherwise, a cool fermentation (59–64 °F/15–18 °C) followed by a few weeks of lagering near freezing temperature will produce the clean profile characteristic for the style.
Homebrew Example
My example uses a mixture of German Pils and American 2-row malt, a common blend that I use when I’m trying to cut the flavor a bit in my beer. You can use the Curt Stock approach and use all German Pilsner malt, if you prefer. I’m also using the traditional corn and sugar. Rice can be substituted for the sugar.
I’m using a single infusion mash to keep it simple. When I brew with flaked corn in the mash, I often add a pound (0.45 kg) of rice hulls to the mash to assist in lautering. It’s cheap insurance against a stuck mash.
I’m using Vanguard hops, but you can also use German Hallertauer Mittelfrüh, Liberty, or Mt. Hood hops. The gentle hop additions will give a trace amount of floral aroma and flavor while not dominating the beer.
A neutral yeast is a must for me, and the classic Chico-type yeast works well here. I do like the idea of the White Labs Cream Ale blend, though, so let me know if you try that one instead. I keep the fermentation cool to retain the neutral profile I am after, and I lager the beer to produce the characteristic smoothness.
I’m looking forward to having a cold one of these cream ales to relax. I’ll be thinking of my friend Curt and toasting the memory of Kathy while doing so. Remembering your absent friends with a good homebrew should be a modern American tradition.
Recipe
Cream Ale
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.052 FG = 1.010
IBU = 14 SRM = 3 ABV = 5.6%
Ingredients
3.5 lbs. (1.6 kg) German Pilsner malt
3.5 lbs. (1.6 kg) US 2-row malt
2 lbs. (907 g) flaked corn (maize)
1 lb. (454 g) corn sugar (15 min.)
1.15 AAU Vanguard hops (first wort hop) (0.25 oz./7 g at 4.6% alpha acids)
2.3 AAU Vanguard hops (60 min.) (0.5 oz./14g at 4.6% alpha acids)
0.25 oz. (7 g) Vanguard hops (5 min.)
Wyeast 1056 (American Ale), White Labs WLP001 (California Ale), or SafAle US-05 yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
This recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO) water. Adjust all brewing water to a pH of 5.5 using phosphoric acid. Add 1 tsp. of calcium chloride to the mash.
Mash the malts and corn at 152 °F (66 °C) for 60 minutes. Begin the lauter process by recirculating the wort. Raise the temperature to 168 °F (76 °C) for 15 minutes.
Add the first wort hops to the kettle during the sparging process. Sparge slowly and collect approximately 6.5 gallons (24.5 L) of wort in your boil kettle.
Boil the wort for 90 minutes, adding hops at the times indicated in the recipe. Add the sugar in the last 15 minutes of the boil.
Chill the wort to 62–64 °F (17–18 °C), pitch the yeast, and ferment until complete. Cool to 32–34 °F (0–1 °C) and lager for four weeks.
Rack the beer, prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate the beer.
Cream Ale
(5 gallons/19 L, extract only)
OG = 1.052 FG = 1.010
IBU = 14 SRM = 3 ABV = 5.6%
Ingredients
5.2 lbs. (2.4 kg) light liquid malt extract
1 lb. (454 g) rice syrup or rice syrup solids (15 min.)
1 lb. (454 g) corn sugar (15 min.)
1.15 AAU Vanguard hops (first wort hop) (0.25 oz./7 g at 4.6% alpha acids)
2.3 AAU Vanguard hops (60 min.) (0.5 oz./14g at 4.6% alpha acids)
0.25 oz. (7 g) Vanguard hops (5 min.)
Wyeast 1056 (American Ale), White Labs WLP001 (California Ale), or SafAle US-05 yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Use 6 gallons (23 L) of water in the brew kettle; heat to 158 °F (70 °C).
Turn off the heat. Add the malt extract and stir thoroughly to dissolve completely. You do not want to feel liquid extract at the bottom of the kettle when stirring with your spoon. Turn the heat back on and bring to a boil. Add the first wort hops while raising to a boil.
Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at the times indicated. Add the sugar and rice syrup/rice syrup solids during the last 15 minutes of the boil.
Chill the wort to 62–64 °F (17–18 °C), pitch the yeast, and ferment until complete. Cool to 32–34 °F (0–1 °C) and lager for four weeks.
Rack the beer, prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate the beer.
Tips For Success:
All-grain brewers can swap out the 2-row pale malt with a quality continental Pilsner malt to build a more bready flavor profile. Flaked rice can be substituted for the sugar in the all-grain recipe as well.
The ale/lager blend found in White Labs WLP080 could make for an interesting substitute in this recipe. A steam beer lager strain would work best with a Chico strain if the White Labs strain is unavailable at your store.
