Fuller’s: The Pride of London
Fuller’s Brewing Director John Keeling walked over to a large bookcase in his office at the Griffin Brewery in Chiswick, West London and pulled out one of the dozens of leather-bound, thick, oversized journals from the shelves. “Since 1845, every single batch of beer brewed here has been entered by hand into these brew books by the Head Brewer,” he said. “So I can look at what was used for ingredients in the late 19th Century or what my predecessor Reg Drury was doing before me. It gives me a great sense of history when I enter the latest batch in one of these journals, but I also enjoy thumbing through older brew books for ideas and rediscovering the past.”
Keeling oversees the brewing of award-winning beers like London Pride and ESB for Fuller Smith & Turner P.L.C., known to most beer lovers as simply Fuller’s. History seeps through Fuller’s beyond the impressive collection of annual brewing journals in Keeling’s office. Beer has been brewed on Fuller’s Chiswick site for over 350 years and the brewery has been in the Fuller’s extended family for the last 160 years. A brewery tour includes walking past a now retired 160-barrel brick-wrapped copper (boil kettle) dating back to 1823 as well as plenty other brewing artifacts from centuries past. And even though the current brewhouse is the picture of modernity with computer-controls and all stainless- steel equipment, Fuller’s does carry on its historic march by continuing to use an old technique for producing some of its leading beers that is very rare in today’s commercial breweries: parti-gyle brewing.
Fuller’s Brewing Director John Keeling
Parti-Pride
To brew some of its leading brands, including ESB, London Pride, Golden Pride and Chiswick Bitter, Keeling harks back to tradition with his new stainless tools and uses the parti-gyle technique combined with blending to make up to four different beers from a single batch.
“It’s the same grist for each of those beers,” said Keeling. “Very simple. 95% British pale ale malt with 5% crystal malt (with a color of 75 °L). We mash it for 60 minutes between 64–65 °C (147–149 °F) and recirculate the runnings until clear. We begin sparging with 76 °C (169 °F) water and then start to collect the runnings. The first runnings all go into the first copper, which is completely filled as the sparging continues. This will be higher gravity. A second copper is filled with the rest of the runnings. Then each copper has a one-hour boil with the first copper using a much higher percentage of bittering hops than the second, lower-gravity, copper. We use Target as our bittering hops. Then we pitch yeast for both coppers at 17 °C (63 °F) before raising the temperature up to 20 °C (68 °F) for the main fermentation. Then it is lowered again.”
Keeling and his crew blend back the two collections of runnings in various percentages to come up with their four different beers. Golden Pride, an 8.5% ABV barleywine, will have the highest percentage of the first, high-gravity, copper. On the other end of the scale, Chiswick Bitter weighing in at 3.5% ABV, would use the highest percentage of the second copper containing lower-gravity runnings. Falling in the middle are ESB at 5.9% ABV and London Pride with an ABV of 4.7%.
While homebrewers can certainly experiment with parti-gyle techniques to produce multiple beers from a single batch, Keeling doesn’t think it is a necessity to brew recreations of these Fuller’s classics at home. “You can certainly get close to making these beers using a single recipe for each. You don’t need to brew parti-gyle to get close,” said Keeling. Keeling reviewed our clone recipes for London Pride, ESB and London Porter and you can find this collection of recipes below.
Heritage
Parti-gyle or not, Keeling had one final piece of advice to share with homebrewers. Not surprisingly coming from a brewer surrounded by a rich history, his main tip centered on looking forward by looking back. “As a brewer you need to understand heritage, meaning you need to first and foremost know your equipment. Brew the same recipe over and over again on your equipment. Make careful notes on each batch. Fancy leather brew books completely optional,” he said laughing.
“Only when you understand your own history of brewing on your equipment can you honestly experiment. Have friends try your beer and accept criticism. Memory is a great thing except it doesn’t always work so take detailed notes and learn from your mistakes. This is the best way to become a better brewer. And being a better brewer making better beer is certainly more fun.”
Then Keeling closed the opened journal dated 1966, put it back on the shelf in its place, turned, smiled and said “heritage” one last time before going back to work.
Recipes
Fuller’s London Pride clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.048 FG = 1.012
IBU = 33 SRM = 14
ABV = 4.7%
This recipe is for the bottled version of London Pride. In the UK, London Pride is brewed to 4.1% ABV for cask and keg. In North America, the keg version available is the same strength as the bottled 4.7% ABV.
Ingredients
9.0 lbs. (4.1 kg) Muntons pale ale malt
14 oz. (0.40 kg) crystal malt (75 °L)
5.83 AAU Target hops (60 min.) (0.53 oz./15 g of 11% alpha acids)
2.63 AAU Challenger hops (15 min.) (0.35 oz./9.9 g of 7.5% alpha acids)
2.98 AAU Northdown hops (15 min.) (0.35 oz./9.9 g of 8.5% alpha acids)
Wyeast 1968 (London ESB) or White Labs WLP002 (English Ale) yeast
Step by Step
Mash at 149 °F (65 °C) for 60 minutes. Boil for 60 minutes adding Target for the full boil. With 15 minutes left in the boil, add Challenger and Northdown hops. Cool wort, transfer to fermenter and pitch yeast. Ferment at 68 °F (20 °C).
Fuller’s London Pride clone
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.048 FG = 1.012
IBU = 33 SRM = 14 ABV = 4.7%
Ingredients
6.6 lbs. (3.0 kg) Muntons Light liquid malt extract
14 oz. (0.40 kg) crystal malt (75 °L)
5.83 AAU Target hops (60 min.) (0.53 oz./15 g of 11% alpha acids)
2.63 AAU Challenger hops (15 min.) (0.35 oz./9.9 g of 7.5% alpha acids)
2.98 AAU Northdown hops (15 min.) (0.35 oz./9.9 g of 8.5% alpha acids)
1 tsp Irish moss
Wyeast 1968 (London ESB) or White Labs WLP002 (English Ale) yeast
Step by Step
Steep crystal malt at 153 °F (67 °C) in 3 quarts (2.8 L) for 45 minutes. Add liquid malt extract and water to make 3.0 gallons (11 L). Boil for 60 minutes, adding hops at the times indicated. Cool wort and transfer to fermenter. Pitch yeast and ferment at 68 °F (20 °C).
Fuller’s ESB clone
(5 gallons/ 19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.060 FG = 1.014
IBU = 35 SRM = 15 ABV = 5.9%
This recipe is for the bottled version of ESB. The cask version in the UK is 5.5% ABV.
Ingredients
11 lbs. 3 oz. (5.1 kg) Muntons pale ale malt
1 lb. 2 oz. (0.51 kg) crystal malt (75 °L)
5.25 AAU Target hops (60 min.) (0.53 oz./15 g of 10% alpha acids)
2.6 AAU Challenger hops (60 min.) (0.34 oz./10 g of 7.5% alpha acids)
0.83 AAU Northdown hops (15 min.) (0.1 oz./2.7 g of 8.5% alpha acids)
1.66 AAU Goldings hops (15 min.) (0.33 oz./9.4 g of 5% alpha acids)
0.33 oz. (9.4 g) Goldings hops (dry hop)
Wyeast 1968 (London ESB) or White Labs WLP002 (English Ale) yeast
Step by Step
Mash grains at 153 °F (67 °C) in 16.5 quarts (15.5 L) of water. Mash for 60 minutes. Collect 6.5 gallons (25 L) of wort. Boil for 60 minutes, adding hops at the times indicated. Cool and ferment at 69 °F (21 °C). Add Goldings dry hops to secondary fermenter.
Fuller’s ESB clone
(5 gallons/ 19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.060 FG = 1.014
IBU = 35 SRM = 15 ABV = 5.9%
Ingredients
1.3 lbs. (0.57 kg) Muntons Light dry malt extract
4.0 lbs. (1.8 kg) Muntons Light liquid malt extract (late addition)
3.3 lbs. (1.5 kg) Muntons pale ale malt
1 lb. 2 oz. (0.51 kg) crystal malt (75 °L)
5.25 AAU Target hops (60 min.) (0.53 oz./15 g of 10% alpha acids)
2.6 AAU Challenger hops (60 min.) (0.34 oz./10 g of 7.5% alpha acids)
0.83 AAU Northdown hops (15 min.) (0.1 oz./2.7 g of 8.5% alpha acids)
1.66 AAU Goldings hops (15 min.) (0.33 oz./9.4 g of 5% alpha acids)
0.33 oz. (9.4 g) Goldings hops (dry hop)
Wyeast 1968 (London ESB) or White Labs WLP002 (English Ale) yeast
Step by Step
Heat 3.4 quarts (3.2 L) of water to 165 °F (74 °C). Add crushed grains to grain bag. Submerge bag and let grains steep around 154 °F (68 °C) for 45 minutes. While grains steep, begin heating 2.25 gallons (8.5 L) of water in your brewpot. When steep is over, remove 1.1 qts. (~1.1 L) of water from brewpot and add to the grain tea in steeping pot. Place colander over brewpot and place steeping bag in it. Pour grain tea (with water added) through grain bag. Heat liquid in brewpot to a boil, then stir in dried malt extract, add the 60 minute hops and begin the boil. With 15 minutes left in boil, add the next addition of hops. Then turn off the heat and add the liquid malt extract. Stir well to dissolve, then resume heating. At the end of the boil, cool wort and transfer to fermenter, adding enough water to make 5.0 gallons (19 L). Pitch yeast and ferment at 70 °F (21 °C). Rack to secondary when fermentation is complete and add dry hops. Bottle a few days later when beer falls clear.
Fuller’s London Porter clone
(5 gallons/ 19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.054 FG = 1.014
IBU = 30 SRM = 46 ABV = 5.4%
Ingredients
8.27 lbs. (3.75 kg) Muntons pale ale malt
1.0 lb. (0.45 kg) crystal malt (75 °L)
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) brown malt
0.75 lb. (0.34 kg) chocolate malt
6.25 AAU Fuggle hops (60 min.) (1.3 oz./37 g of 4.7% alpha acids)
3.15 AAU Fuggle hops (15 min.) (0.67 oz./19 g of 4.7% alpha acids)
Wyeast 1968 (London ESB) or White Labs WLP002 (English Ale) yeast
Step by Step
Mash at 153 °F (67 °C) for 60 minutes at mash thickness of 1.3 qt./lb. Boil for 60 minutes, adding hops at times indicated. Cool wort, transfer to fermenter and pitch yeast. Ferment at 62 °F (17 °C).
Fuller’s London Porter clone
(5 gallons/ 19 L, partial mash)
OG = 1.054 FG = 1.014
IBU = 30 SRM = 46 ABV = 5.4%
Ingredients
1.0 lb. (0.45 kg) Muntons pale ale malt
1.0 lb. (0.45 kg) crystal malt (75 °L)
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) brown malt
0.75 lb. (0.34 kg) chocolate malt
1.0 lb (0.45 kg) Muntons Light dried malt extract
4.0 lbs. (1.8 kg) Muntons Light liquid malt extract
6.25 AAU Fuggle hops (60 min.) (1.3 oz./37 g of 4.7% alpha acids)
3.15 AAU Fuggle hops (15 min.) (0.67 oz./19 g of 4.7% alpha acids)
Wyeast 1968 (London ESB) or White Labs WLP002 (English Ale) yeast
Step by Step
Partial mash grains at 153 °F (67 °C) for 45 minutes. Collect wort and add water to make 3.0 gallons (11 L). Stir in dried malt extract and bring to a boil. Boil 60 minutes, adding hops at times indicated. With 15 minutes left in boil, remove from heat and add liquid malt extract. Stir well to dissolve, then resume heating. At the end of the boil, cool wort and transfer to fermenter, adding enough water to make 5.0 gallons (19 L). Ferment at 62 °F (17 °C).
