Article

Festbier/Märzen/Oktoberfest

by the numbers
OG: 1.054-1.057
FG:1.010-1.012
SRM:4-7
IBU:18-25
ABV:5.8-6.3

Many American beer enthusiasts look forward to autumn seasonal beers, often with their malty, stronger flavors. One particular style that is popular is Oktoberfest, an amber, malty, German lager, just like the kind that’s served at the eponymous Munich festival. Right? Well . . . no. Not any more, at least. What is exported from Germany as Oktoberfest hasn’t been served at the festival since 1990.

If you look at images from the Oktoberfest festival, look carefully at the color of the beer in the Mass (1 liter dimpled beer mug). You’ll see that it’s golden blond, not amber. The traditional amber style had been served from the late 1800s, but was replaced with a beer that is more easily consumed in large quantities.

Homebrewer Rob Westendorf told me that the Brewmaster at Paulaner, in Munich, said their goal was to make a beer that was “more poundable” (I asked him three times if that quote was accurate).

So to create a place for this newer style of pale German lager in the 2015 Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) Style Guidelines, a new style – festbier – was created, and the older amberOktoberfest style was renamed to Märzen (March beer, its traditional name). This begs the question of why one of these isn’t named Oktoberfest. In Germany, Oktoberfestbier is a beer brewed by one of the large breweries within the city limits of Munich, and that is served at Oktoberfest. In deference to the original source of the beer, we chose different names to try to reduce confusion.

Note that commercial breweries often label their products differently, so names will vary. Some German breweries call their pale beer Wiesn (or “meadow,” after the place where Oktoberfest is held). American breweries will almost always call their amber lager Oktoberfest, but this isn’t universally true. So when buying the beer, be sure to hold it up to the light to see its color, or when in a bar, ask if it’s the pale or the amber type.

The 2015 BJCP Style Guidelines includes festbier as style 4B, part of Category 4 “Pale Malty European Lager,” which also includes Munich helles and helles bock. If you notice the similarity in names, that’s because hell is the German word for light-colored (or pale).

Sensory Profile

First of all, a festbier is like any other German lager — smooth and clean, both properly fermented and lagered.

A proper German fermentation will have no noticeable fermentation by-products present (esters, diacetyl, acetaldehyde, etc.). Sufficient lagering will have reduced any “green” character to the beer, and made it very smooth on the palate. Clean lager yeast strains also contribute to the classic German character.

The appearance is deep yellow to deep gold color; this is a pale not an amber beer. Most examples are a medium-gold color, with a bright white head and brilliant clarity. The color also informs us about the malt profile. No deeply toasted or caramelly flavors will be present.

The beer has a malty balance, with a richness from paler malts (Pilsner, Vienna, Munich) present. These grains aren’t neutral; they have a bready, doughy, and lightly toasted flavor.

The best examples will have an elegance from quality ingredients, and no harsh or rough flavors. The malt dominates the hops in both the aroma and flavor, but a light German noble hop character is appropriate with soft floral, herbal, or spicy qualities. The bitterness is supportive, but the finish should still be malty (although well-attenuated). Since this beer style is grouped with two other well-known lagers (Munich helles and helles bock), it’s useful to think of a Festbier as residing between these two styles, particularly in alcohol content.

Most commercial examples are around 6.1%, which is a strong lager but not really up to bock strength. There is more richness and body in a festbier than a helles, but not as rich and intense as a helles bock.

As the beer was designed to be drinkable in quantity, the body shouldn’t be too full; medium is about right. The finish should be dry, but without the crisp bite of a Pilsner. The beer may be perceived as slightly sweet, although this is from the flavor of malt, not residual sugar. Rich malt without an even amount of bitterness will seem malty in the finish but be more drinkable than if the finishing gravity was higher.

Brewing ingredients and methods

Classic continental ingredients are perfect for this beer, as it embodies Munich. Mostly German Pilsner malt (anywhere from 60 to 80%) with the remainder of German Vienna and Munich malt will give an interesting profile. The balance between the Munich and Vienna malts can vary, but I like a little more Munich to play up the malt richness. The character from the grain should be soft, doughy, and lightly toasty, without harsh grainy or biscuity qualities. Crystal-type malts are out of place; the malt flavors should come from the base malts.

A variety of mash programs can work for this style. The traditional German step mash is what I use, but a single infusion mash at the lower end of the range (149 °F/65 °C) would work. A decoction mash could be used, but I would be concerned about too much color development and that the flavors would start tending towards a bock.

Water isn’t a major factor in this style, as there is not a minerally flavor profile evident. I would tend to use lower ion water sources, and to emphasize calcium chloride as the calcium source to help play up the maltiness in the beer.

Traditional German hop and yeast choices will work here. Hallertauer is the classic German hop, so that would be my first choice but the hops are subdued so their selection isn’t a major driver of the profile. Any of the other Saazer or noble type hops could be used; Tettnanger would be my second choice.

A clean German yeast strain is required, and the Weihenstephan 34/70 strain is a great performer. This yeast can be found from a number of suppliers — Wyeast 2124 (Bohemian Lager) and White Labs WLP830 (German Lager) for liquid stains, and it is even available in dried form with Fermentis Saflager W-34/70. While derived from the same strain, there can be some performance differences; I’ve had good luck with the Wyeast 2124, so that’s what I tend to use. I think using White Labs WLP833 (German Bock) yeast would be interesting too, although this can make the beer seem maltier and possibly more like a bock; it’s identical to the Ayinger yeast, so if you like that flavor, that’s the one to use. I would avoid any yeast strains that are higher sulfur producers.
I find diacetyl rests are completely unnecessary if you avoid strains that are known diacetyl producers and
follow good fermentation practices (adequate pitch rate, oxygenation, nutrients). Taste your beer before racking and decide if it needs it.

Lagering helps reduce yeast byproducts and produce a well-conditioned, smooth finished beer. The old German rule of one week of lagering for each degree Plato of original gravity can be followed, although most commercial breweries in Germany now simply kräusen their beer to accelerate the conditioning. To kräusen, add 1 to 2 quarts (1 to 2 L) of actively fermenting yeast to the beer when it still has 4 to 6 gravity points remaining to attenuate, then cooling slowly to lagering temperature, and lager for 2 weeks. Lagering at freezing temperature (32 °F/0 °C) produces better, faster results.

Homebrew Example

My version is a straight-forward example that shoots for the middle of the style, and is looking for a balance similar to the Paulaner Wiesn. I’m aiming for a malty but attenuated beer that has medium body and retains a high degree of drinkability. I want a clean flavor profile that showcases the best of German ingredients.
I highly recommend using German malt in this beer. There will be minor flavor differences between maltsters, so you can experiment to find which ones you like the best. I used Best Malz, but Weyermann also is good. If you have other maltsters available to you, give them a try. My recipe uses a step mash since I find that gives me the attenuation but still enough body.

I use the classic Hallertauer hops and 34/70 yeast for the traditional profile. Other choices are possible, but I like to be able to brew a classic example before trying variations. A neutral water profile allows the malt flavors to come through cleanly. Fermentation and lagering are also traditional.

My tasting notes for the beer say that it has a medium gold color with medium body. The overall impression is malty, smooth, and clean. The bitterness is supportive, but the finish is still malty. Just a light note of floral hops adds some interest. The combination of malty flavors, dry finish, and restrained body keep the drinkability high. If you can’t knock back a liter at a time, you did something wrong. Prost!

Festbier

(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.057 FG = 1.011
IBU = 20 SRM = 5 ABV = 6.1%

Ingredients

8.25 lbs. (3.7 kg) German Pilsner malt
2 lbs. (0.91 kg) German Munich malt
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) German Vienna malt
5 AAU German Hallertauer hops
(60 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 5% alpha acids)
0.5 oz. (14 g) German Hallertauer hops (5 min.)
Wyeast 2124 (Bohemian Lager), White Labs WLP830 (German Lager), or Fermentis Saflager W-34/70 yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)

Step by Step

Two or three days before brew day, make a 2-qt. (2-L) yeast starter, aerating the wort thoroughly (preferably with oxygen) before pitching the yeast. This recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO) water. Add 1⁄4 tsp 10% phosphoric acid per 5 gallons (19 L) of brewing water, or until water measures pH 5.5 at room temperature. Add 1 tsp. calcium chloride (CaCl2) to the mash.

This recipe uses a multi-step mash with a mashout. On brew day, mash in all the grains at 131 °F (55 °C) in 15 qts. (14 L) of water and hold this temperature for 10 minutes. Raise the temperature by infusion or direct heating to 146 °F (63 °C) for 40 minutes, then to 158 °F (70 °C) for 20 minutes. Finally raise to 168 °F (76 °C) for 10 minutes to mashout, recirculating. Fly sparge with 168 °F (76 °C) water until 6.5 gallons (25 L) of wort is collected.

Boil the wort for 90 minutes, adding the hops at times indicated in the recipe. Chill to 48 °F (9 °C).

Oxygenate, then pitch the yeast starter. Ferment at 50 °F (10 °C) until fermentation is complete. Rack and lager at 33 °F (1 °C) for 14 weeks. Fine with gelatin if necessary. Prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate to 2.5–2.7 volumes.

Festbier

(5 gallons/19 L, partial mash)
OG = 1.057 FG = 1.011
IBU = 20 SRM = 5 ABV = 6.1%

Ingredients

6 lbs. (2.7 kg) liquid Pilsner malt extract
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) German Munich malt
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) German Vienna malt
5 AAU German Hallertauer hops
(60 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 5% alpha acids)
0.5 oz. (14 g) German Hallertauer hops (5 min.)
Wyeast 2124 (Bohemian Lager), White Labs WLP830 (German Lager), or Fermentis Saflager W-34/70 yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)

Step by Step

Two or three days before brew day, make a 2-qt. (2-L) yeast starter, aerating the wort thoroughly (preferably with oxygen) before pitching the yeast.

Place the crushed grains in a large muslin bag and soak them in 1 gallon (4 L) water at 146 °F (63 °C) for 40 minutes. Apply low heat to raise to 158 °F (70 °C) and hold for 20 minutes. Finally raise to 168 °F (76 °C) for 10 minutes. Place the grains in a colander and pour hot water through the grains. Top off your brewpot to 6 gallons (23 L) and bring up to a boil.

Turn off the heat, then add the malt extract and stir thoroughly to dissolve the extract completely. You do not want to feel liquid extract at the bottom of the kettle when stirring with your spoon. Turn the heat back on and bring to a boil. Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding the hops at the times indicated in the recipe.
Chill to 48 °F (9 °C). Oxygenate, then pitch the yeast starter. Follow the fermentation and packaging instructions in the all-grain version.

Festbier

(5 gallons/19 L, extract only)
OG = 1.057 FG = 1.011
IBU = 20 SRM = 5 ABV = 6.1%

Ingredients

6 lbs. (2.7 kg) liquid Pilsner malt extract
2 lbs. (0.91 kg) liquid Munich malt extract
5 AAU German Hallertauer hops
(60 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 5% alpha acids)
0.5 oz. (14 g) German Hallertauer hops (5 min.)
Wyeast 2124 (Bohemian Lager), White Labs WLP830 (German Lager), or Fermentis Saflager W-34/70 yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)

Step by Step

Two or three days before brew day, make a 2-qt. (2-L) yeast starter, aerating the wort thoroughly (preferably with oxygen) before pitching the yeast. Use 6 gallons (23 L) of water in the brew kettle; heat to 158 °F
(70 °C). Turn off heat.

Add the malt extracts and stir thoroughly to dissolve the extract completely. You do not want to feel liquid extract at the bottom of the kettle when stirring with your spoon. Turn the heat back on and bring to a boil.

Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding the hops at the times indicated in the recipe.

Chill to 48 °F (9 °C). Oxygenate, then pitch the yeast starter. Follow the fermentation and packaging instructions in the all-grain version.

Issue: January-February 2016
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