The Dark Side of Lager
Dark Lagers are seeing a surge in modern American brewing culture but are very far from new. The various styles of dark lager have been around for hundreds of years and drinkers all over the world have enjoyed these delightful beers. The origins of dark lagers follow suit with other classic lager styles and can be attributed to originally being brewed in Germany or the Czech Republic. Germany’s versions vary broadly in style and alcohol. They span from schwarzbier, to dunkel, bock, and doppelbock. The Czechs generally have one distinct style called tmavé pivo, and from the Baltic countries we have Baltic porter (which, even though it has porter in the name, is actually a lager). The influence of German brewing also spread to Mexico during the 1800s and heavily influenced early brewing culture in the country and created the negra-style of dark Mexican lager that is still enjoyed today.
All these beers styles have wonderful attributes and also present significant challenges to brew well. The ability to balance the dark roast character with the smoothness of a traditional lager requires a chef’s kiss, so to speak. Paying close attention to malt profile, water chemistry, and how the beers are hopped will help to make a great version of any dark lager. My hope is to explain the styles with more significance and provide some helpful details on how to create a deliciously drinkable brew.
Dark Lager Styles
Schwarzbier
Schwarzbiers can be as black as stout, but they generally tend to lean towards a dark brown character with ruby highlights. What was and still can be appealing to creating and drinking schwarzbier is the roast character. It has a tendency to mimic characteristics of stouts, while having the smooth drinkability of a lager. The roast character of the beer is the key, but it needs to be tame and any roast bitterness needs to be absent from the beer. All bitterness should be attributed to the hops (20–30 IBU) and the fermentation should be clean with a traditional German lager strain; your favorite one will work perfectly. They are traditionally brewed to 4.5–5% ABV. That said, I like to brew mine untraditionally to about 6% ABV for the winter. I find that little extra warming character really helps with the finish of a pint.
Munich-style dunkel
Dunkel’s direct translation to English is dark. They are most often deep copper to dark brown in color and exhibit notes of caramel and bread crust from the extensive use of Munich malt in the style. Hints of chocolate generally tend to follow thanks to the use of dark malt, but does not hit the extensive roast profile that you tend to find in schwarzbier. With the heavy addition of Munich malt in the grain bill and a clean fermentation, you find yourself with a beer that can be beautifully paired with different types of food without overpowering any dish. Dunkels have a restrained bitterness and generally fall between
4.5–5.5% ABV.
Bocks and doppelbocks
Bocks and doppelbocks also hail from Germany, Einbeck to be specific. Though not all bocks are dark, a wonderful subset of the style brings a beautiful entry into the dark lager category. The name of the game here with both beers is malt sweetness. Driven by malt character, these beers are rich. Both were originally brewed by German monks to supplement food during Lenten fasts; so meant to provide needed calories. Most traditional bocks clock in at over 6% ABV while doppelbocks push the 8% ABV range and can go as high as 10%. Both are no joke, but balancing a high (by German lager standards) finishing gravity, while also creating a balanced, full-flavored and drinkable lager can be tough. When this balance is achieved, these are absolutely beautiful beers.
Baltic porter
Modeled after the classic porter recipes of Britain, the Baltic countries of Europe put their own spin on the style and began fermenting similar recipes with lager yeast. These beers are big, bold, and resemble classic imperial stout, with examples ranging from 6.5% ABV all the way up past 9%. The roast profile is profound, the malt character is complex and bold. The bitterness is low-to-medium, providing just enough balance to keep the beer from seeming cloying. The lager fermentation and extensive cold conditioning sends the beer to a beautifully smooth place. My favorite variations use a touch of wood smoke malt to really enhance the malt characteristics in the beer. Between the roast profile and alcohol content, but representative smooth profile of the beer, 4-6 months of lagering time before serving will truly benefit the style. Even longer can be better. I’ve known brewers (myself being one) that have won major awards with Baltic porter at two to three years old. Once that long maturation is achieved, something special will be enjoyed.
Tmavé pivo
Largely forgotten, until recently, Czech-style dark lager is stunning when created and brewed correctly. It’s meant to be rich and flavorful, but as easy to drink as a Czech-style Pilsner. It has a low-to-moderate roast character with a slight malt sweetness. Incorporating an extensive malt bill helps to balance out all the flavors instead of relying on just a few malts to do the job. Hopping levels vary by example and a touch of diacetyl is also present in some. Trying to shoot for a beer at about 4.5% ABV will help hit all the marks and have you wanting to return for another. Tmavé pivo is one of my favorite styles that I have had the chance to create in the last couple of years and look forward to many more takes on the style.
Negra-style Mexican lager
This is another one of my favorite styles to make and drink. These beers have had such an impact on the world of brewing and continue to influence how we make dark lager. In the mid-1800s, German immigrants not only came to America and started a longstanding brewing culture, but also traveled to South and Central America. Many of those who landed in Mexico brought centuries-old brewing tradition to the culture that have had a longstanding impact on how we make beer. A cross between Vienna lager and dunkel lager, Mexican dark lager uses the addition of corn to help dry out the body, while contributing a pleasant sweetness, all while fermented with a traditional lager yeast. Dry, crisp, and full-bodied, it can be one of the tastiest dark lagers when created properly.
Creating Dark Lagers
While each dark lager style is unique in its own way, there are commonalities among ingredients and technique that should be looked at when brewing any dark lager. At Oakshire Brewing in Eugene, Oregon, where I lead brewing operations, we have brewed many examples of these beers. So I’ll summarize the major considerations homebrewers should have when brewing a dark lager while sprinkling in my own experience and preferences when it comes to these styles.
Malt
The base of all your dark lagers should be Pilsner malt. American Pilsner malt will always work; but if available, German Pilsner malt provides the best representation of the style. I have come to the opinion that creating a classic style of beer deserves the classic ingredients that pay homage to the country of origin. However, maltsters all over the world are creating great examples of traditional malts. Try what will work for you in your time and place, and with good technique you can create a fantastic beer with almost any malt available.
The hardest part of brewing dark lagers is the balance. Most dark beers, including lagers, use some sort of dark malt to achieve their color. Most, though not all, will also come with a roasted or chocolate-like characteristic associated with them in the beer. I have found the trick to be to use de-husked and de-bittered black malt. My personal favorite is Weyermann Carafa® Special malt. They are labeled as type 1, 2, and 3. Ranging between 300–500 °Lovibond, just a little will create the roasted malt impact that you are looking for in any of your dark lager beers. At Oakshire, we use Weyermann for our dark lagers to keep as true to style as we can, but you can certainly use Briess Blackprinz® or Midnight Wheat to have the same character; but if chasing traditional lager, German malt will always win out. My choice varies between Carafa® Special 2 and Special 3. I usually employ Special 3 as it has a more direct impact on the beer with less malt usage and allows the base beer to shine. There are also other malt products such as Weyermann Sinamar® that can be used to darken the color of your beer. Try them all out to find which one works best for your brewing.
Munich malt should be incorporated for most every dark lager. I’m a sucker for German dark Munich malt. Only a few Lovibond darker than traditional Munich, the longer kiln times add a beautiful caramel character to the base that helps to accent the desired malt character, especially to balance any roast malt added to the beer that you create.
Water
I’m lucky where I brew and with my source of water. I start at nearly zero on all ranges. I get to adjust as I see fit to recreate beer in a way and style that makes sense. That being said, I implore you to do research into your local water supply. You can find all the information from your local water department, often listed on their website, which makes water adjustments to match any profile possible. Beginning with reverse osmosis water is another great option.
When looking at dark lager in particular, the focus should be on adjusting your wort pH before fermentation. With the addition of dark malt, you are going to drive down the pH; sometimes lower than you would like. We use calcium carbonate to re-balance our wort pH during the mashing process. A little bit of mash salt can go a long way to helping create great lager beer!
Hops
Dark lagers are not generally extensively hopped. From tmavé pivo through Baltic porter, we are looking for a harmonious balance of malt-to-hops. Most of the hopping is focused towards bittering. We want to balance the intense malt character with an even bitterness. Any additional IBUs come from late addition hops in the kettle and during the whirlpool, but tend to be very minimal. Certain hop varieties achieve this bitterness in a better fashion than others. Some bittering varieties will have an aggressive profile that even when added at a minimal level will come across as harsh and overbearing on the palate. Sometimes that works for a beer like IPA, but when you are looking for a soft profile in a lager of any sort, you want to make sure you are choosing the right hops. The classic hops used for lighter lagers are common with darker lagers as well. I have personally found that German-grown Herkules is perfect for most every lager that we make. It helps to fit the balance of the profile that we are looking to achieve. If German hops are not available, American-grown Nugget and Warrior have become our go-to substitutions and work well.
For finishing hops we almost exclusively use either Hallertau Tradition or Czech Saaz. For us it comes down to reliability of the product we are receiving. Similar to homebrewers, as a small brewery we don’t have the ability to select a specific lot of German-grown hops to create our lagers. Our suppliers each year blend our German varietals to create the best representation of the style they can with that year’s growing conditions. We’ve found that Tradition and Saaz repeatedly hit all the noble characteristics that we are chasing without being overbearing to the final beer and also give us the consistency that we are looking for. Again, the malt is king in these styles of beer and we want the hops to be a secondary contribution to the beer that brings everything together.
Fermentation
The only rule that I have for dark lager fermentation is that it is always cold and slow. I target between 50–52 °F (10–11 °C) for all of my dark lagers. I’ve found that a higher fermentation temperature can bring out some of the rougher attributes around the style. Getting the beer cold from the start allows the yeast to work through those rough profiles and balance them out. Don’t rush fermentation — we’re not out here making pale ale. This direction is simply the process that we have adhered to at Oakshire and best exemplifies what we feel are the best representations of dark lager styles. We also know that there are plenty of delicious versions of these beers that ferment at higher temperatures and for shorter amounts of times, so there is some leeway if you are unable or choose to ferment quicker at a higher temperature. A full week to week and a half of fermentation is beautiful and allows the yeast to clean up any diacetyl that may be lingering around. Once a final VDK (vicinal diketones) check is passed (i.e., you aren’t tasting traits of diacetyl such as butter or butterscotch), start a strategic step crash. Take it down 4 °F (2 °C) every other day until you are at 34 °F (1 °C). From there it is all about time with the beer. Styles like dunkel, schwarzbier, negra, and tmavé pivo will be ready to go in another six to eight weeks.
Doppelbock and Baltic porter will benefit from many more months. Those two styles are meant to sit for an extended amount of time. You may feel the urge to get into your beer, but let them sit for a bit longer. The higher ABV of each style, along with the intensity of the malt character, can see some great benefits from extended aging. Once you send them to cold conditioning, check in with them every few weeks. It’s really all about personal preference and will be up to you to decide when you feel they’re ready. I’ve found doppelbock coming to fruition from our brewery in three to four months. Baltic porter for us is a minimum of six months. The higher roast malt profile, while driving in a smooth drinkability, starts to be seen on our end after that half year. That being said, at the end of the day it’s all based on personal preference of taste.
With all these styles, a traditional German or Czech lager yeast strain will work beautifully. It really comes down to which is your favorite. We personally use the Czech Budvar strain from one of our preferred yeast suppliers. Professional brewers are all very opinionated on what lager strain to use; so, I would say do the same! Try a bunch out and decide which one does best for your style of brewing
and tastes.
Let’s Get Brewing
Lager in general seems scary. People will tell you how difficult it is to create a lager the right way. The added layers in dark lager can have any person freaked out before brewing. There are a ton of variables that can lead a brewer to doubt their abilities in creating complex styles that make them seem out of reach to brew properly, especially in a homebrew setting. However, they should not be. Care and detail are paramount to making dark lager; just like any beer that you set out to create. The fun part with making dark lager is that there is a challenge, yet when created properly you have a beer that many people have not attempted, and many more people will want to drink when you are done.
In a world of crazy beer, the simplicity of something that seems tough can make your brewing mind be reimagined in ways that allow you to see further steps forward than you have ever seen. And if those steps forward happen over a pint that you created, and are able to change the view of how people see beer afterwards, then job well done! Now, fire up that kettle and get brewing your own dark lager.
Related Links:
Want to dig deeper into specific dark lager styles? Check out these previous “Style Profile” columns:
• Munich dunkel: https://byo.com/article/munich-dunkel-the-original-brown-lager-of-bavaria
• Baltic porter: https://byo.com/article/baltic-porter-imperial-stouts-vagabond-cousin
• Schwarzbier: https://byo.com/article/schwarzbier-germanys-darkest-beer
Dark Lager Recipes
Oakshire Brewing Co.’s Doppelbock clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.079 FG = 1.020
IBU = 16 SRM = 21 ABV = 7.8%
Doppelbock is one of our favorite brews to make each year. Ferment low and slow to ensure a very smooth and malt-forward beer that can withstand the high alcohol. Our trick is to first run off about a quarter of the wort and stop sparging. We then boil the highly concentrated wort for an hour to achieve the most out of the Maillard reactions of using a direct-fire kettle. We then finish our sparge and proceed with the rest of the recipe. After fermentation, the beer will remain in-tank undisturbed for about three months. We then transfer to our conditioning tank and carbonate. Shooting for a little higher on your carbonation will help offset some of the sweetness and make for a wonderful drinking experience for everyone around.
Ingredients
4.25 lbs. (2 kg) German Pilsner malt
11 lbs. (5 kg) German dark Munich malt (9 °L)
1.2 lbs. (544 g) CaraFoam® malt
11 oz. (312 g) CaraMunich® Type II malt
3 oz. (85 g) Carafa® Special III malt
7.5 AAU Herkules hops (90 min.) (0.5 oz./14 g at 15% alpha acids)
1 oz. (28 g) Saaz hops (0 min.)
Yeast nutrient (15 min.)
Whirlfloc (15 min.)
Wyeast 2000 (Budvar Lager), White Labs WLP802 (Czech Budejovice), Omega Yeast OYL-100 (Lager 1), or SafLager S-189 yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by step
This is a single infusion mash, utilizing a grain-to-water ratio of 1.5 qts./lb. (3.1 L/kg). Add 1 tsp. calcium carbonate if using soft or reverse osmosis water. Target a mash temperature of 150 °F (66 °C) and hold for 60–90 minutes. Begin recirculation, then raise temperature to 168 °F (76 °C) for mash out and hold for 10 minutes. Begin sparging and, if possible, run the first 1.5 gallons (5.7 L) to a separate kettle and boil it down into a thin syrup. Continue to sparge, collecting another 7 gallons (26.5 L) in your kettle. Total boil time is two hours adding hops, yeast nutrients, and kettle fining per the ingredients list.
At the end of the boil, combine the two worts with the goal being that there is 5.5 gallons (21 L) of chilled wort in your fermenter. Chill to 50 °F (10 °C) and pitch a big starter or three packets of dried yeast. Repitching yeast from a smaller lager may be a great idea for a big lager like this. Also be sure to aerate/oxygenate the wort if repitching or using a liquid yeast strain. Ferment for 2–3 weeks at 52 °F (11 °C). Once signs of fermentation have ceased and final gravity has been achieved rack into a secondary vessel, such as a Corny keg, and lager at near-freezing temperatures for 2–3 months. Keg and force carbonate to 2.4 v/v or prime and bottle condition (consider adding a bottle conditioning yeast strain).
Oakshire Brewing Co.’s Doppelbock clone
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.079 FG = 1.020
IBU = 16 SRM = 21 ABV = 7.8%
Ingredients
2 lbs. (0.9 kg) Pilsen dried malt extract
6 lbs. (2.7 kg) Munich dried malt extract
1.2 lbs. (544 g) CaraFoam® malt
11 oz. (312 g) CaraMunich® Type II malt
3 oz. (85 g) Carafa® Special III malt
7.5 AAU Herkules hops (90 min.) (0.5 oz./14 g at 15% alpha acids)
1 oz. (28 g) Saaz hops (0 min.)
Yeast nutrient (15 min.)
Whirlfloc (15 min.)
Wyeast 2000 (Budvar Lager), White Labs WLP802 (Czech Budejovice), Omega Yeast OYL-100 (Lager 1), or SafLager S-189 yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by step
Begin with 5 gallons (19 L) of water in the brew kettle and submerge crushed grains placed in a muslin bag. Steep grains as the water heats up to about 170 °F (77 °C) then remove grains, allowing the liquid to drip back into the kettle. Turn off the heat and add half the dried malt extract and first hop addition then bring wort up to a boil. Boil for 60 minutes, adding the yeast nutrients, kettle fining, and remaining malt extract with 15 minutes remaining in the boil. Add the second hop addition after the heat is turned off.
Chill wort to 50 °F (10 °C) then transfer to your fermenter. The goal is to have 5.25 gallons (20 L) of wort. Pitch a big starter or three packets of dried yeast. Follow the remainder of the all-grain recipe.
Oakshire Brewing Co.’s Tmavé Pivo clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.048 FG = 1.013
IBU = 24 SRM = 28 ABV = 4.6%
Tmavé pivo is the overlying style of Czech dark lager. The beers are generally differentiated by their starting gravity and are named as such. Usually found in three variations, 8 degree (1.032), 10 degree (1.040), or 12 degree (1.048). Oakshire’s is a 12 degree. We use an extensive malt bill to add depth to the final beer while eliminating as much of the roast character as possible. Supremely drinkable and one of our favorites to make!
Ingredients
3.75 lbs. (1.7 kg) Bohemian Pilsner malt
4.4 lbs. (2 kg) German Vienna malt
6 oz. (170 g) CaraMunich® Type I malt (34 °L)
1.1 lbs. (500 g) CaraBohemian® malt (73 °L)
9 oz. (250 g) Carafa® Special II malt
4 oz. (110 g) melanoidin malt
3.8 AAU Herkules hops (75 min.) (0.25 oz./7 g at 15% alpha acids)
4 AAU Saaz hops (20 min.) (1 oz./38 g at 4% alpha acids)
1 oz. (28 g) Saaz hops (5 min.)
Yeast nutrient (15 min.)
Whirlfloc (15 min.)
Wyeast 2000 (Budvar Lager), White Labs WLP802 (Czech Budejovice), Omega Yeast OYL-100 (Lager 1), or SafLager S-189 yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by step
This is a single infusion mash, utilizing a grain-to-water ratio of 1.5 qts./lb. (3.1 L/kg). Add 1⁄2 tsp. of both calcium chloride and calcium sulfate. Target a mash temperature of 152 °F (67 °C) and hold for 60 minutes. Begin recirculation, then raise temperature to 168 °F (76 °C) for mash out and hold for 10 minutes. Begin sparging and continue until collecting 7 gallons (26.5 L) in your kettle. Total boil time is 75 minutes adding hops, yeast nutrients, and kettle fining per the ingredients list.
Chill to 48 °F (9 °C) and pitch a starter or two packets of dried yeast. Be sure to aerate/oxygenate the wort if repitching or using a liquid yeast strain. Ferment for two weeks at 50 °F (10 °C). Once signs of fermentation have ceased and final gravity has been achieved rack into a secondary vessel, such as a Corny keg, and lager at near-freezing temperatures for 6 weeks. Keg and force carbonate to 2.4 v/v or prime and bottle condition.
Oakshire Brewing Co.’s Tmavé Pivo clone
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.048 FG = 1.013
IBU = 24 SRM = 28 ABV = 4.6%
Ingredients
3 lbs. (1.7 kg) Pilsen dried malt extract
1.6 lbs. (2 kg) Munich dried malt extract
6 oz. (170 g) CaraMunich® Type I malt (34 °L)
1.1 lbs. (500 g) CaraBohemian® malt (73 °L)
9 oz. (250 g) Carafa® Special II malt
4 oz. (110 g) melanoidin malt
3.8 AAU Herkules hops (75 min.) (0.25 oz./7 g at 15% alpha acids)
4 AAU Saaz hops (20 min.) (1 oz./38 g at 4% alpha acids)
1 oz. (28 g) Saaz hops (5 min.)
Yeast nutrient (15 min.)
Whirlfloc (15 min.)
Wyeast 2000 (Budvar Lager), White Labs WLP802 (Czech Budejovice), Omega Yeast OYL-100 (Lager 1), or SafLager S-189 yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by step
Begin with 5 gallons (19 L) in the brew kettle and submerge crushed grains placed in a muslin bag. Steep grains as the water heats up to about 170 °F (77 °C) then remove grains, allowing the liquid to drip back into the kettle. Turn off the heat and add half the dried malt extract and the first hop addition, then bring wort up to a boil. Boil for 60 minutes, adding the second hop addition with 20 minutes remaining and the yeast nutrients, kettle fining, and remaining malt extract with 15 minutes left in the boil. Add the final hop addition after the heat is turned off.
Chill wort to 48 °F (9 °C) then transfer to your fermenter. The goal is to have 5.25 gallons (20 L) of wort. Pitch a yeast starter or two packets of dried yeast. Be sure to aerate/oxygenate the wort if repitching or using a liquid yeast strain. Ferment for two weeks at 50 °F (10 °C).
Follow the remainder of the all-grain recipe instructions.
Oakshire Brewing Co.’s Doggerland Baltic Porter clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.083 FG = 1.020
IBU = 15 SRM = 50 ABV = 8.3%
This recipe snagged a silver medal for Oakshire at the 2018 World Beer Cup. The most impressive part was that it was brewed and packaged nearly two years before (2016) and held up so well and fit the style so perfectly that we just knew we needed to enter it in competition. We focus much of the malt bill on Carafa® Special III and add a hint of smoked malt to round out the malt character. We also use the addition of Belgian dark candi syrup to boost the gravity and add a pleasant dark fruit characteristic to match with the dark malt character. These beers are meant to condition for an extended time before being served. I would shoot for a minimum of four months, but you can easily let it go up to a year before serving.
Ingredients
7.5 lbs. (3.4 kg) German Pilsner malt
7 lbs. (3.2 kg) German dark Munich malt (9 °L)
1.25 lbs. (570 g) Carafa® Special III malt
6 oz. (170 g) cherry wood-smoked malt
1.1 lbs. (500 g) Belgian dark candi syrup (30 min.)
3.8 AAU Herkules hops (75 min.) (0.25 oz./7 g at 15% alpha acids)
1 oz. (28 g) Hallertau Tradition hops (0 min.)
Wyeast 2000 (Budvar Lager), White Labs WLP802 (Czech Budejovice), Omega Yeast OYL-100 (Lager 1), or SafLager S-189 yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by step
This is a single infusion mash, utilizing a grain-to-water ratio of 1.5 qts./lb. (3.1 L/kg). Add 1⁄2 tsp. of both calcium chloride and calcium sulfate. Target a mash temperature of 150 °F (66 °C) and hold for 60–90 minutes. Begin recirculation, then raise temperature to 168 °F (76 °C) for mash out and hold for 10 minutes. Begin sparge, collecting 7.5 gallons (28.4 L) in the kettle. Total boil time is two hours, adding hops, yeast nutrients, candi syrup, and kettle fining per the ingredients list.
Chill to 48 °F (9 °C) and pitch a big starter or three packets of dried yeast. Repitching yeast from a smaller lager may be a great idea for a big lager like this. Also be sure to aerate/oxygenate the wort if repitching or using a liquid yeast strain. Ferment for three weeks at 50 °F (10 °C). Once signs of fermentation have ceased and final gravity has been achieved rack into a secondary vessel, such as a Corny keg, and lager at near-freezing temperatures for 4–6 months. Keg and force carbonate to 2.4 v/v or prime and bottle condition (consider adding a bottle conditioning yeast strain).
Oakshire Brewing Co.’s Doggerland Baltic Porter clone
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.083 FG = 1.020
IBU = 15 SRM = 50 ABV = 8.3%
Ingredients
4 lbs. (1.8 kg) Pilsen dried malt extract
4 lbs. (1.8 kg) Munich dried malt extract
1.25 lbs. (570 g) Carafa® Special III malt
6 oz. (170 g) cherry wood-smoked malt
1.1 lbs. (500 g) Belgian dark candi syrup (30 min.)
3.8 AAU Herkules hops (75 min.) (0.25 oz./7 g at 15% alpha acids)
1 oz. (28 g) Hallertau Tradition hops (0 min.)
Wyeast 2000 (Budvar Lager), White Labs WLP802 (Czech Budejovice), Omega Yeast OYL-100 (Lager 1), or SafLager S-189 yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by step
Begin with 5 gallons (19 L) in the brew kettle and submerge crushed grains placed in a muslin bag. Steep grains as the water heats up to about 170 °F (77 °C) then remove grains, allowing the liquid to drip back into the kettle. Turn off the heat and add half the dried malt extract and first hop addition then bring wort up to a boil. Boil for 60 minutes, adding the yeast nutrients, kettle fining, and remaining malt extract with 15 minutes remaining in the boil. Add second hop addition after the heat is turned off.
Chill to 48 °F (9 °C), top up fermenter with water to 5.25 gallons (20 L), then pitch a large starter or three packets of dried yeast. Repitching yeast from a smaller lager may be a great idea for a big lager like this. Also be sure to aerate/oxygenate the wort if repitching or using a liquid yeast strain. Ferment for three weeks at 50 °F (10 °C). Once signs of fermentation have ceased and final gravity has been achieved rack into a secondary vessel, such as a Corny keg, and lager at near-freezing temperatures for 4–6 months. Keg and force carbonate to 2.4 v/v or prime and bottle condition (consider adding a bottle conditioning yeast strain).
Oakshire Brewing Co.’s Miel Mi Amor clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.051 FG = 1.010
IBU = 24 SRM = 11 ABV = 5.5%
We brew our Mexican dark lager (Miel Mi Amore) each spring to celebrate the impending change of weather in Oregon. A mix between Vienna and dunkel lagers, we incorporate polenta (coarse ground cornmeal) to build a crisp body, while using Mexican coffee honey for a touch of sweetness and flavor, while helping the body dry out during fermentation. Any type of honey will work, although we like something with a little bit of flavor that adds to the complexity of the beer. A classic wildflower honey will work great too!
Ingredients
3 lbs. (1.4 kg) German Pilsner malt
5.3 lbs. (2.4 kg) German Vienna malt\
8 oz. (230 g) dark Munich malt (9 °L)
4 oz. (113 g) CaraAmber® malt (26 °L)
1.5 oz. (43 g) Carafa® Special III malt
7 oz. (200 g) polenta cornmeal
1 lb. (450 g) raw honey (15 min.)
3.8 AAU Herkules hops (75 min.) (0.25 oz./7 g at 15% alpha acids)
5 AAU Saaz hops (30 min.) (1.25 oz./35 g at 4% alpha acids)
Yeast nutrient (15 min.)
Whirlfloc (15 min.)
Wyeast 2000 (Budvar Lager), White Labs WLP802 (Czech Budejovice), Omega Yeast OYL-100 (Lager 1), or SafLager S-189 yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by step
This is a single infusion mash, utilizing a grain-to-water ratio of 1.5 qts./lb. (3.1 L/kg). Add 1⁄2 tsp. of both calcium chloride and calcium sulfate. Target a mash temperature of 150 °F (66 °C), adding the polenta to the top of the mash and hold for 60 minutes. Begin recirculation, then raise temperature to 168 °F (76 °C) for mash out and hold for 10 minutes. Begin sparge, collecting 7 gallons (26.5 L) in the kettle. Total boil time is 75 minutes, adding hops, yeast nutrients, honey, and kettle fining per the ingredients list.
Chill to 48 °F (9 °C) and pitch a starter or two packets of dried yeast. Be sure to aerate/oxygenate the wort if repitching or using a liquid yeast strain. Ferment for two weeks at 50 °F (11 °C).
Once signs of fermentation have ceased and final gravity has been achieved rack into a secondary vessel, such as a Corny keg, and lager at near-freezing temperatures for six weeks. Keg and force carbonate to 2.4 v/v or prime and bottle condition.
Oakshire Brewing Co.’s Miel Mi Amor clone
(5 gallons/19 L, partial mash)
OG = 1.051 FG = 1.010
IBU = 24 SRM = 11 ABV = 5.5%
Ingredients
3 lbs. (1.4 kg) Pilsen dried malt extract
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) Munich dried malt extract
8 oz. (230 g) dark Munich malt (9 °L)
4 oz. (113 g) CaraAmber® malt (26 °L)
1.5 oz. (43 g) Carafa® Special III malt
7 oz. (200 g) polenta cornmeal
1 lb. (450 g) raw honey (15 min.)
3.8 AAU Herkules hops (75 min.) (0.25 oz./7 g at 15% alpha acids)
5 AAU Saaz hops (30 min.) (1.25 oz./35 g at 4% alpha acids)
Yeast nutrient (15 min.)
Whirlfloc (15 min.)
Wyeast 2000 (Budvar Lager), White Labs WLP802 (Czech Budejovice), Omega Yeast OYL-100 (Lager 1), or SafLager S-189 yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by step
Heat 3 qts. (3 L) of water to 165 °F (74 °C). Add the Munich malt and polenta cornmeal to a fine grain bag. Submerge in the water and hold between 145–155 °F (63–68 °C) for 45 minutes. Add the remaining grains to the bag and steep for an additional 15 minutes. Remove the grains and wash with 1 gallon (4 L) hot water. Top up the brew kettle to 5 gallons (19 L) and bring wort to a boil. Total boil time is 60 minutes, adding hops, yeast nutrients, honey, and kettle fining per the ingredients list.
Chill to 48 °F (9 °C), top up fermenter with water to 5.25 gallons (20 L), then pitch a starter or two packets of dried yeast. Be sure to aerate/oxygenate the wort if repitching or using a liquid yeast strain. Ferment for two weeks at 50 °F (11 °C). Once signs of fermentation have ceased and final gravity has been achieved rack into a secondary vessel, such as a Corny keg, and lager at near-freezing temperatures for six weeks. Keg and force carbonate to 2.4 v/v or prime and bottle condition.
