Power Your Propane Burner: Run your flames on a simple switch
As a homebrewer I am interested in the process of making beer, and of course the beer itself. However, as I came to realize, there is another aspect to the hobby that I wasn’t fully aware of . . . all the cool hardware and gadgets that are available to us homebrewers. When I first started brewing, many of the kettles, pumps, hardware, and other gadgets were just not available.
Like most homebrewers I began my all-grain brewing journey with a small kit consisting of a mash cooler and one pot. Brewing inside was time consuming and messy, so I bought my first propane burner and moved outside. This would provide me with other challenges such as how to keep the mash from cooling down too much on cold-weather brew days. Up to this point I would only brew during the summer months, but my homebrew supply suffered in the off-season. I needed a solution, one that a bit of research would provide.
I discovered a new term and a solution to my temperature issues. Enter the heat-exchanged recirculating mash system, or more colloquially known as HERMS. In case you are unfamiliar, a HERMS recirculates wort from the mash tun through tubing that is immersed in hot water, usually a hot liquor tank. This water is heated just above the desired mash temperature and maintained. Many systems have an automatically lit burner powered by a controller with temperature sensors. The temperature is set and when the temperature drops in the hot liquor tank the controller calls for heat and the burner ignites. There are two main types of HERMS tank heating options — electric and propane (or natural gas if available to you). Electric would be impractical for my conditions so I opted to go with propane.
The problem I had was trying to find information on building a pilot-lit burner while at the same time making it safe to operate in outdoor conditions. I was finding a lot of designs that used a pilot light that was constantly lit but not controlled by a sensor and valve. The pilot light being blown out with a gust of wind was a concern. So, I set my sights on using a smart valve that would control the flow of propane safely.
The pilot light being blown out with a gust of wind was a concern. So, I set my sights on using a smart valve . . .
This build needed to meet one more criteria to be a viable solution. Since I brew outside and store my brew setup indoors, I would need a brewery that I could take apart and easily move indoors for storage. The burner modification had to be contained to my burner’s housing unit, making it tough for an automated, sensor-driven system.
When I started my HERMS system project build I broke it up into three phases so it wasn’t so daunting. First the HERMS tank and heat exchanger, second was the burner, and finally the controller. These instructions will concentrate on my burner modification itself rather than my HERMS setup. The burner can be used without a controller by means of a manual switch if building this in a phased approach like I did. When my brewstand is built, a controller will turn the burner on and off for me.
Materials
- Smart valve, low-pressure (I used a Honeywell SV9501)
- Hot surface igniter pilot
- Propane burner
- Low-pressure propane regulator (11-in. WC) and hose
- ¼-in. MNPT x 3⁄8-in. MGF control valve orifice (CVO)
- Pilot light aluminum tubing ¼-in. OD
- Copper tubing ¼-in. ID
- (2) ¼-in. flare to ½ male brass fittings
- 24V 40VA transformer
- Power strip with on/off switch
- Copper tubing flaring tool
Brewing with electricity and propane can be hazardous. There is a risk of electrical shock or death. If you decide to build this, your design and finished project should be reviewed by a licensed electrician. Any 120VAC power used in brewing operations should be protected by a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI).
