Big Ideas for Small-Scale Craft Brewing: Don’t Miss a Full-Day of 10 Live Online Seminars at the 2026 NanoCon. Register now and Save 25%!

project

Motorize Your Mill

Crushing grain immediately prior to mashing is one of the hallmarks of homebrewing at its finest and is well documented in numerous articles. I have used a drill-powered mill for years, but recently undertook the challenge of motorizing it. In milling, the roller speed and gap between the rollers are of utmost importance. Too slow and it takes a very long time to mill the grain. Too fast and the grains will not be crushed for optimum efficiency in the mash. By doing some simple calculations, we can determine the correct pulley size based on the motor’s RPM. Electric motors are built with standard speed ratings. Most are either 1725 or 3450 RPM. Unless you are using a jackshaft arrangement with four pulleys, the 3450 RPM motor is seriously too fast Another consideration is motor horsepower. If the horsepower is too small it will have problems running the mill, but the cost goes up considerably with the more horsepower you have, so there is no need to overdo it either. For this project I decided to use a ½ horsepower motor that runs at 1200 RPM and it is under slung on table, thus allowing additional workspace for scale etc. This motor is also TEFC (Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled), meaning grain dust cannot get into the motor and possibly ignite. If you are like many homebrewers and enjoy fabricating your gear, no worries; motors can be salvaged from many sources such as washers, garage door openers and HVAC blowers to name a few. Many times they can be had for free, but may require some work to remove from original mounts. If you don’t have an old, out of commission electronic to take a motor from, they can often be sourced online from sites offering free classifieds. Under mounting also keeps belts and pulleys safely hidden, which is important, as I really want to keep all of my fingers. There are a few things that will not be covered in this article … namely building a cabinet, frame or another structure supporting the motor and mill as the options are endless. I will focus on mounting the motor, the pulleys (sheaves), belt sizing and speed requirements. Before we get started; one word of safety. If you are not absolutely comfortable working with electrical connections, find a friend that is comfortable working with electricity or contact an electrician. Perhaps you are a member of a local brewclub and can ask for members’ assistance. Our club (www.brewcommune.com) sees this type of posting on our website regularly and many members are more than glad to help … possibly in exchange for some homebrews. Parts and materials Motor Pulleys – McMaster-Carr www.mcmaster.com 1 ½- inch pulley 9-inch pulley Cord Switch Plug Angle steel and rod

You might also like…

project

Build a Multiple-Bottle Filler

A full 5-gallon (19-L) batch of homebrew requires filling 53 12-oz. (355 mL) bottles. What if you could fill more than one bottle at a time?

Red and yellow cooler with brewing hose slipped in under the lid. project

Build a Cooler Mash/Lauter Tun

project

Inline Refractometer: Getting real-time density readings

How nice would it be if you could monitor your wort’s gravity in real time without constantly needing to pull samples? While this build is

project

Build a Counterflow Wort Chiller

Chill on the cheap by building your own counterflow wort chiller for about forty bucks. With one trip to the hardware store and about an hou

Continue reading – Enter your email to log in or register

New to Brew Your Own? Create a free account to get our weekly newsletter and two free article webpage visits every month.

Yes! I would like to receive new content and updates.