Article

Dark Roasted Barley

Roasted barley. The name is simple enough. However, even though it’s called roasted barley, many brewers still think it’s a malt. It is not. Roasted barley is made from unmalted barley — a fact that, as you will see, has some practical implications for brewers. It is the among darkest of the dark grains, with a Lovibond rating around 500 °L. Black malt is the only other malt in the same league. (There are also lighter shades of roasted barley, around 300 °L.)

How it is Made

Roasted barley can be made from either 2-row or 6-row barley and there is no real difference in the color, potential extract or flavor and aroma profile between the two. Higher-protein barley is easier to darken than that with lesser protein levels.

Unmalted barley is put into roasting drums that turn to keep the barley moving. While the barley roasts, water is sprayed to “quench” the barley. The moisture level in the grain is maintained between 5 and 10% because water is one of the key components of the Maillard reaction — without it, the barley would burn instead of roasting. Roasting takes about 3 1⁄2 hours and the process is mostly automated. The critical last 15 minutes of the roasting process is done manually by an experienced operator that will make the call to stop the roasting by the sight of it. Dave Kuske from Briess Malting says, “There is no instrument on earth than can match the human eye for judging when the color is just right.”

Ironically, roasting barley longer doesn’t always increase its extractable color. The longer you roast a grain, the darker it appears. However, the extractable color only increases to a point. Once a grain reaches about 500 °L, the amount of color you can obtain from the grain has hit its maximum. As the grain continues to roast, it will change from mahogany to black, but the extractable color will drop from 500 °L down to 100 °L. If you examined the inside of a grain of roasted barley (500 °L), you would see a solid deep reddish brown and taste coffee. On the other hand, the interior of the “over-roasted” grain would be pitted, black and taste acrid and burnt.

The roasting process for roasted barley is mostly the same as for the other types of roasted malts. The “recipes” for the temperature of the roaster, the time in the roaster and the amount of moisture vary by the type of product being produced. Black malt, which is the closest product to roasted barley, has nearly the same exact roasting profile. The biggest difference lies in the finished product. The malting process produces many volatile flavor and aroma compounds. When roasted, black malt loses most of these. Roasted barley doesn’t have these compounds. Its interior is mostly composed of large starch molecules. When it is roasted, it produces a deep aromatic espresso character for which it is typically known.

Primarily, roasted barley is the stout grain. Not that you can’t have a stout made without it — but what it brings to the party, nothing else can. It is used in lesser amounts in some other beer styles.

Light in the Darkness

Although roasted barley produces dark beers, the foam in these beers is light colored. The reason for this counterintuitive result lies in the fact that roasted barley is not malted. Malting produces simple sugars that, when roasted, react with amino acids and form Maillard products. These Maillard products are soluble and produce dark beer foam. Unmalted barley has fewer simple sugars, so the foam in beers made from it does not pick up as much dark color.

Behind the simplicity of this unmalted grain, roasted barley has a world of flavor, aroma and color complexity.

1879 Dublin XXX Stout
(5 gallon/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.086 FG = 1.015
IBU = 87 SRM = 55 ABV = 9.1%

A large stout, what today would be called a foreign extra stout, was made in Dublin in 1879. Most assuredly, there would also be a little sourness brought on by Brettanomyces, giving this beer a finishing acidic twang.

Ingredients

10.25 lbs. (4.7 kg) British 2-row pale malt (2-row)
1.0 lb. (0.45 kg) crystal malt (75 °L)
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) roasted barley
3.5 lbs. (1.6 kg) corn sugar
10 AAU Fuggle hops (120 mins)(2.0 oz./57 g of 5% alpha acids)
10 AAU Fuggle hops (60 mins) (2.0 oz./57 g of 5% alpha acids)
2.0 oz. (57 g) Fuggle hops (10 mins)
Fermentis Safale S-04 yeast

Step by Step

Mash grains at 154 °F (68 °C) in 11.5 qts. (11 L) of water. Boil for 120 minutes, adding hops at times indicated and sugar for final 15 minutes. Ferment at 68 °F (20 °C). As an option, you can add a Brettanomyces culture once the primary fermentation slows.

Countertop partial mash option:
Reduce amount of British pale malt to 3.0 lbs. (4.7 kg) and add 2.0 lbs (0.91 kg) of Muntons Light dried malt extract and 2.75 lbs. (1.3 kg) of John Bull light liquid malt extract (late addition).

Begin by heating 5.5 qts. (5.2 L) of soft or distilled water to 165 °F (74 °C) in a large kitchen pot. Stir 1⁄2 tsp. of calcium sulfate (gypsum) or calcium chloride into this water. In another pot, heat 2.25 qts. (2.1 L) of soft water to around 164 °F (73 °C). Stir 1 tsp. calcium carbonate (chalk) or 1⁄2 tsp. sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) into this water. In your brewpot, begin heating a half-gallon (~2 L) of water to around 170 °F (77 °C). Place crushed pale and crystal malts in one grain bag and place in cooler. Put remaining roasted barley (crushed) in the other bag. Add the 5.5 qts. (5.2 L) of water to the malts in the cooler and stir it in. Let this mash, starting at 154 °F (68 °C), for 45 minutes. Likewise, steep the specialty grains in the pot of carbonate-rich water for 45 minutes (around 153 °F/67 °C), although this exact temperature is not critical. While grains mash and steep, heat about 8.0 qts. (7.6 L) of water to 180 °F (82 °C).

When mashing and steeping is complete, scoop 1 qt. (~1 L) of 170 °F (77 °C) water from your brewpot with a large measuring cup or beer pitcher. Lift the specialty grains out of their steeping pot and place them in a colander over your brewpot. Pour the “grain tea” through the grain bag (to strain out any large bits of grain) and then rinse the grains with the water pulled from your brewpot. Start heating this “grain tea” while you collect the wort from the cooler.

To collect wort from mash, recirculate about 2.5 qts. (2.4 L) of wort, then add 180 °F (82 °C) water to cooler until it is full to the rim. Draw off wort and add to brewpot until the liquid level in the cooler is just above the grain bed. Add 180 °F (82 °C) water to the rim again. Repeat this process until you have collected 2.0 gallons/8 qts. (7.6 L) of wort. Add dried malt extract and bring wort to a boil. Add first dose of hops and boil for 60 minutes.

Add hops at times indicated in the ingredient list. Stir in sugar and liquid malt extract for the final 15 minutes of the boil. Cool wort, in sink or with wort chiller, to 70 °F (21 °C) and transfer to fermenter. Add water to top up to 5 gallons (19 L), aerate and pitch yeast. Ferment at 68 °F (20 °C). As an option, you can add a Brettanomyces culture once the primary fermentation slows to a halt.

Hitachino Nest
Sweet Stout clone
(5 gallon/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.049 FG = 1.019
IBU = 16 SRM = 41 ABV = 3.8%

The Kiuchi brewery’s Hitachino Nest Sweet Stout is like a delicately sweetened cappuccino. Dark roasted coffee with dark fruit notes and the unmistakable aroma and flavor of lactose. For breakfast? Sure, and also lunch, dinner . . . and karaoke!

Ingredients

6.0 lbs. (2.7 kg) 2-row pale malt
0.50 lbs. (0.23 kg) wheat malt
1.0 lbs. (0. 45 kg) crystal malt (55 °L )
1.25 lbs. (0.57 kg) roasted barley
1.0 lbs. (0. 45 kg) lactose (15 mins)
4.1 AAU Kent Goldings hops (60 mins)(0.75 oz./21 g of 5.5% alpha acids)
Wyeast 1099 (Whitbread Ale) yeast

Step by Step

Mash at 153 °F (67 °C) in 10 qts. (9.4 L) of water. Boil wort for 60 minutes. Add lactose for the final 15 minutes of the boil. Ferment at 68 °F (20 °C).

Countertop partial mash option:
Reduce amount of pale malt to 2.5 lbs. (1.1 kg) and add 2.75 lbs. (1.3 kg) Coopers Light liquid malt extract.

Begin by heating 5.5 qts. (5.2 L) of soft or distilled water to 164 °F (73 °C) in a large kitchen pot. Stir 1⁄2 tsp. calcium sulfate (gypsum) or calcium chloride into this water. In another pot, heat 2.0 qts (1.9 L) of soft water to around 164 °F (73 °C). Stir 1 tsp. calcium carbonate (chalk) or 1⁄2 tsp. sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) into this water. In your brewpot, begin heating a half-gallon (~2 L) of water to around 170 °F (77 °C). Place crushed pale, wheat and crystal malts in one grain bag and place in cooler. Put remaining roasted barley (crushed) in the other bag. Add the 5.5 qts. (5.2 L) of water to the grains in the cooler and stir it in. Let this mash, starting at 154 °F (68 °C), for 45 minutes. Likewise, steep the specialty grains in the pot of carbonate-rich water for 45 minutes (around 153 °F/67 °C), although this exact temperature is not critical. While grains mash and steep, heat about 8.0 qts. (7.6 L) of water to 180 °F (82 °C). When mashing and steeping is complete, scoop 1 qt. (~1 L) of 170 °F (77 °C) water from your brewpot (you can use a large measuring cup for this). Lift the specialty grains out of their steeping pot and place in a colander over your brewpot. Pour the “grain tea” through the grain bag (to strain out any large bits of grain) and then rinse the grains with the water pulled from your brewpot. Start heating this “grain tea” while you collect the wort from the cooler. To collect wort from mash, recirculate about 2.5 qts. (2.4 L) of wort, then add 180 °F (82 °C) water to cooler until it is full. Draw off wort and add to brewpot until the liquid level in the cooler is just above the grain bed. Add 180 °F (82 °C) water again. Repeat this process until you have collected 2.0 gallons/8 qts. (7.6 L) of wort. Bring wort to a boil. (Don’t add extract now.) Add first dose of hops and boil for 60 minutes.

Add hops at times indicated in the ingredient list. Stir in liquid malt extract and lactose for the final 15 minutes of the boil. Cool wort, in sink or with wort chiller, to 68 °F (20 °C) and transfer to fermenter. Add water to top up to 5 gallons (19 L), aerate and pitch yeast. Ferment at 68 °F (20 °C).

De Dolle Extra
Export Stout clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.086 FG = 1.015
IBU = 53 SRM = 68 ABV = 9.2%

De Dolle is a small Belgian village brewery that produces only 900 barrels of beer per year. Their stout recipe includes Belgian dark candi sugar (the syrup, not the rocks) and the Orval strain of yeast.

Ingredients

10 lbs. (4.5 kg) Dingemans pale malt
1.0 lbs. (0.45 kg) Special B malt
0.50 lbs. (0.23 kg) chocolate malt
1.25 lbs. (0.57 kg) roasted barley
3.0 lbs. (1.4 kg) Belgian dark candi sugar
14 AAU Nugget hops (60 mins)(1.0 oz./28 g of 14% alpha acids)
0.50 oz. Nugget hops (20 mins)
White Labs WLP510 (Bastogne Belgian Ale) yeast

Step by Step

Step mash at 125 °F (52 °C) for 15 mins,
145 °F (63 °C) for 35 mins, 165 °F (74 °C) for 25 mins and 172 °F (78 °C) for 5 mins. Boil for 60 minutes. Ferment at 72 °F (22 °C).

Countertop partial mash option:
Reduce amount of pale malt to 3.0 lbs. (1.4 kg) and add 2.0 lbs. (0.91 kg) of Briess Light dried malt extract and 3.3 lbs. (1.5 kg) of Briess Light liquid malt extract. Begin by heating 5.5 qts. (5.2 L) of soft water to 163 °F (73 °C) in a large kitchen pot. Stir 1⁄2 tsp. calcium sulfate (gypsum) or calcium chloride into this water. In another pot, heat 2.5 qts (2.4 L) of soft water to around 163 °F (73 °C). Stir 1 tsp. calcium carbonate (chalk) or 1⁄2 tsp. sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) into this water. In your brewpot, begin heating a half-gallon (~2 L) of water to around 170 °F (77 °C). Place crushed pale malt and Special B in one grain bag and place in cooler. Put remaining dark grains (crushed) in the other bag. Add the 5.5 qts. (5.2 L) of water to the pale grains in the cooler and stir it in. Let this mash, starting at 152 °F (67 °C), for 45 minutes. Likewise, steep the specialty grains in the pot of carbonate-rich water for 45 minutes (around 152 °F/67 °C). While grains mash and steep, heat about 8.0 qts. (7.6 L) of water to 180 °F (82 °C). When mashing and steeping is complete, scoop 1 qt. (~1 L) of 170 °F (77 °C) water from your brewpot. Lift the specialty grains out of their pot and place in a colander over your brewpot. Pour the “grain tea” through the grain bag and then rinse the grains with the water pulled from your brewpot. Start heating this “grain tea” while you collect the wort from the cooler.

To collect wort from mash, recirculate about 2.5 qts. (2.4 L) of wort, then add 180 °F (82 °C) water to cooler until it is full. Draw off wort and add to brewpot until the liquid level in the cooler is just above the grain bed. Add 180 °F (82 °C) water to fill cooler again. Repeat this process until you have collected 2.0 gallons/8 qts. (7.6 L) of wort. Add dried malt extract and bring wort to a boil. Add first dose of hops and boil for 60 minutes. Add hops at times indicated in the ingredient list. Stir in liquid malt extract and Belgian candi sugar for the final 15 minutes of the boil. Cool wort to 72 °F (22 °C) and transfer to fermenter. Add water to top up to 5 gallons (19 L), aerate and pitch yeast. Ferment at 72 °F (22 °C).

Traquair House Ale clone
(5 gallon/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.070 FG = 1.017
IBU = 37 SRM = 18 ABV = 6.8%

Traquair House is the oldest inhabited house in Scotland. Some say their house ale is the paragon of Scottish Wee Heavy ales.

Ingredients

14 lbs. (6.4 kg) Scottish pale malt (Golden Promise)
0.25 lbs. (113 g) roasted barley
10 AAU Kent Goldings hops (60 mins) (2.0 oz./57 g of 5% alpha acids)
Wyeast 1728 (Scottish Ale) yeast

Step by Step

Mash at 153 °F (67 °C). Boil for 60 minutes. Ferment at 60 °F (16 °C).

Extract option:

Reduce pale malt to 1.75 lbs. (0.79 kg) and add 2.0 lbs (0.91 kg) of Muntons Light dried malt extract and 6.6 lbs. (3.0 kg) of Muntons Light liquid malt extract. Steep grains at 153°F (67 °C). Boil wort, with dried malt extract and hops, for 60 minutes. Add liquid extract for final 15 minutes of boil. Ferment at 60 °F (16 °C).

Issue: March-April 2008