Upgrading Your Garage Brewery

As a teenager it was garage bands, in college it was garage parties, and in middle age it is the garage brewery. The only criteria I had when searching for a new house was that it have a two-car garage large enough to entertain my long-held vision of building a garage brewery.

Not only did I have the support of my wife in this venture but also a sanctioned $1,000 budget to build the infrastructure. Sound too good to be true? Actually, after years of brewing in her kitchen, I probably could have finagled my wife for $5,000 due to her equally passionate long-held vision to get me the heck out of her kitchen at any cost! She also got final say and dictatorial control on every other aspect of the house, a fair trade as far as I am concerned.

When we moved into our new house about a year ago, the garage was a typical, neglected, empty shell consisting of bare studded walls, bare rafters overhead, and only two electrical outlets and two light bulbs in the entire place. By taking advantage of some special buys on materials and doing the actual electrical, plumbing, and construction labor myself, I was able to complete the project on budget, have fun doing it, and end up with killer brewing digs: finished insulated walls, hot and cold running water, electrical outlets in convenient locations, good lighting, counter space, cabinets, and ventilation.

With some custom shelving on the other side of the garage, an entire attic in which to store and organize typical garage items, and other strategically placed hooks and shelves, I have plenty of non-cluttered room for my brewing on one side of the garage. I also have work- bench space on the other side and still have room to put at least one car in the garage (should I ever desire to).

The reality is that with a stereo, microwave oven, fridge, easy chair, and TV also now in the garage, my wife is quickly becoming a garage widow, but at least I am out of her kitchen!

I have definitely added resale value to the house, and I have a convenient, efficient, and fun facility in which to brew beer. I highlight three of the key features below: custom sink, sparge system, and ventilation.

Custom Brew Sink

It’s the water and a lot more (water). Beer is a water-intensive product to say the least. Not only is beer itself composed of more than 95 percent water, but also gallons upon gallons of additional water are required throughout the entire brewing process to achieve the final quaffable product. Think about it: cleaning the brew space, cleaning equipment prior to brewing, rinsing equipment, rinsing equipment again, mashing grain, sparging grain, chilling the wort, cleaning equipment after brewing, soaking the labels off bottles, cleaning bottles (or kegs), rinsing bottles, and cleaning the brew space after brewing.

I roughly calculate that for each gallon of finished product, the typical homebrewer will use at least five additional gallons of water to produce it. A water source and sink facility within the brewing area are therefore of paramount importance to the homebrewer.

Most homebrewers brew in the kitchen and therefore have access to a sink. Those of us who have been kicked out of the kitchen, however, find ourselves out in the garage, down in the basement, or out on the back porch, without convenient access to a sink. The options in the latter case are: 1) to lug heavy vessels of water back and forth from the nearest sink to the brewing location, 2) to run a hose from the nearest sink to the brewing location, 3) to install a sink at the new brewing location, or 4) to find a new hobby.

Option three is the desired solution for most of us, but making it happen is the hard part. As long as you have decided to go with option three, you might as well make the most of it. For many years of homebrewing I put up with small-capacity kitchen and bathroom sinks that can’t accommodate a four-gallon brew pot (let alone a primary fermenter or carboy). The sinks had cheap plastic faucets that couldn’t hold a bottle washer without stripping threads, had stubby faucets that allowed enough clearance to wash your hands but not much else (certainly not brewing equipment), and caused my spouse to threaten me with sharp objects for disrupting her kitchen. Finally, I was able to devise a simple-in-concept and extremely practical brewer’s dream sink facility. It completely eliminates all of the above noted annoyances (no guarantees with the spouse though) and creates a much more pleasant brewing experience. Three key features of the sink are described in terms of capacity, clearance, and convenience.

Capacity

Again, as brewing necessitates large and bulky equipment that must be cleaned, rinsed, and rinsed again, bigger is better in terms of sink capacity. I use and recommend a large industrial plastic utility sink. The basin of the typical utility sink is deep, wide, and large (20 gallons) in volume. To put that in brewing terms, such a sink will easily hold 75 beer bottles.

Utility sinks come in different sizes and styles. There are those that are made to install within a standard countertop (drop ins) and those that are generally used as free-standing vessels. They are lightweight yet durable, require minimal assembly, are readily available at your local hardware store, and are relatively inexpensive.

The smaller sized, lower grade utility sinks run about $20 to $30, and the larger, more durable ones run from $50 to $60. There are also double-basin utility sinks, which are double in size, volume, and price.

Clearance

Clearance refers to the distance between the basin floor of the utility sink and the overhead faucet. Typically, the faucet assembly is mounted onto the rim of the utility sink using the existing mount holes. This standard configuration will usually allow between eight and 15 inches of clearance, which is fine for hand washing but cumbersome for rinsing carboys, primary fermenters, and brew kettles.

The solution is to mount the faucet assembly higher above the sink to allow more space under it. I achieved this by installing a “shelf” on the wall against which the utility sink buttresses. (See photo above). I then mounted the faucet assembly onto the shelf and ran the water supply lines directly to it.

To determine the preferred height of the shelf, I first measured the length of my longest piece of brewing equipment, which is a Cornelius keg. I therefore left a good 26 inches of space under the faucet, which allows for easy filling and rinsing of carboys, kegs, kettles, and primaries.

Convenience

Tip one. When selecting a faucet, choose one with single-lever control. It can be a hassle to have to turn on both the cold (on one side) and the hot (on the other side) valves of the dual-control faucets to get the temperature you need. The single-lever control allows you the convenience of one-handed operation, has fewer parts and less risk of operation failure, and is usually manufactured to allow both the faucet and the lever to rotate completely out of the way when needed. The typical single-lever faucet is more expensive than the dual control ones at $50 on the low end and up to $200 on the high end. As a very inexpensive alternative, I found the perfect single-lever faucet (shown) for $10 in the discontinued-items bin at a local hardware store.

Tip two. Whether you’re installing a utility sink to existing water lines or newly tapped water lines, I recommend installing dual-stop shutoff valves (also called dual outlet stops) on both the cold water line and the hot water line. This configuration will allow two lines of hot water and two lines of cold water to supply the sink Why do this? Well, we are talking about convenience, and this one feature provides plenty of it to the brewer. Also, it takes the same amount of time to install a dual shutoff valve as a single shutoff valve, and the cost difference is only a few dollars.

The concept is that one pair of hot and cold supply lines connects to the faucet as standard procedure. This leaves one hot supply line and one cold supply line. The remaining hot supply line will feed a hose bib (metal faucet head) mounted on one side of the mounting rim of the sink. Run the remaining cold supply line to the other side of the sink where you have installed another hose bib (see assembly instructions below). The result is a fully functional, high-clearance faucet offering hot and cold water for everyday use, cleaning, and rinsing. In addition, on both sides of the sink and completely out of the way are two other lines of water.

In my case I installed a jet bottle washer on the spare hot water line, which is used only for bottle washing. I am now able to simply walk up to the bottle washer at any time and rinse my pint glasses, bottles, carboys, and anything else that can use a good blast of hot water, and I do not have to hook it up to the faucet and remove it every time I need to use it. I can also use this hot water line to attach a hose and fill kettles, spray out my garage, or wash the car on a cold day.

I use the spare cold water line primarily for two purposes: 1) To attach a hose and fill my brew kettles, and 2) to attach a hose and run my wort chiller. Again, the convenience is in the fact that the hose (or the bottle washer) can remain permanently installed where I do not have to hook and unhook it to the main faucet every time. The grand convenience in all this is that I can be chilling my wort (spare cold line), rinsing bottles (spare hot line), and washing other brew equipment (standard faucet) all at the same time and at the same sink.

Utility Sink Components:

• One utility sink of choice, $20-$60
• One faucet of choice, $10-$200
• One P-trap assembly, $5-$10
• Four supply lines, $2-$5 each
• Two double-stop shutoff valves, $10 each
• Two hose bibs (faucet heads, 1/2-inch female), $5 each
• Two 1/2-inch copper elbow, 50 cents each
• Two 1/2-inch male copper adapters (male threads on one end, female receptor on other), 50 cents each
• 2 feet of 1/2-inch copper tubing, 80 cents per foot
• One laminated board (4 feet long by 1 inch high by 8 inches wide or desired) for faucet shelf, $5-$10

Assembly Tools:

• Copper pipe cutter, $8
• Flux, $3
• Solder (lead free), $5
• Propane torch kit including propane and all of the above, $20
• Roll of Teflon tape, 50 cents per roll
• 9/16-inch drill bit
• Wrench

Spare Faucet (Hose Bib) Assembly Step by Step:

1. Drill a 9/16-inch hole in each of the corners on the faucet mount ledge of the utility sink.
2. Cut a section of 1/2-inch copper tubing to desired length (about 3 inches) to run from the drilled hole in the ledge to the hose bib faucet so that the faucet is in a position that hangs over the sink basin.
3. Cut another length of 1/2-inch copper tubing (about 6 inches) long enough to extend from the drilled hole in the ledge down to where the supply line will reasonably connect to it under and behind the sink.
4. Sweat (weld using the torch, solder, and flux) the small length of tubing into the hose bib faucet on one end and into a copper 90-degree elbow on the other end.
5. Sweat the longer piece of copper tubing into the remaining end of the copper elbow.
6. Slide the longer copper tubing down through the hole in the sink mount ledge where the hose bib and elbow will end up resting on top of the sink rim.
7. Carefully sweat the copper adapter (with the male threads on one end) onto the open end of the longer copper tubing (now behind the sink and under the mount ledge).
8. The hose bib assembly is now ready to connect to the supply line. Use Teflon tape on all male threads and tighten.
9. Turn on water and test for leaks.

The result is a faucet that just extends enough over the basin of the sink to connect a hose or bottle washer to it. It also will pivot (swing from side to side), allowing you to move it out of the way when necessary. Note: I found it helpful
to affix a small block of wood (also drilled with the 9/16-inch hole) to the underside of the sink mount ledge. I slid the copper tubing through the block to add stability to the spare water line faucet assembly.

Custom Sparge System

They say that necessity is the mother of invention. In my experience it is mothers who necessitate invention (of new brewing techniques) as was the case with my brewing partner, Brian Moulton. That is to say, Brian’s wife Shelly, mother of their active two-year-old son Trevor, necessarily “influenced” Brian to devise a safer way to sparge his grain than with his typical makeshift gravity-based system that included teetering kettles of scalding water stacked on top of boxes and chairs. Using his kegging equipment, Brian came up with a very clever, safe, and effective means to create an anti-gravity sparge system driven by carbon dioxide pressure.

The concept: Use your brew kettle to bring the desired quantity of sparge water to desired temperature. Pour the hot water into a sterile five-gallon Cornelius keg. Connect the gas line in from the C02 tank to the Cornelius keg. Connect the
line out from the Cornelius keg to the copper tubing transit line (described below). Apply enough C02 pressure (five pounds psi) to move the hot water out of the Cornelius keg, up through the copper tubing transit line, and out the sparge arm onto the (elevated) grain bed (which in our case sits on a countertop). Run the sweet wort out of the lauter tun into a kettle (which in our case is on the floor, a chair, or burner).

Sparge System Components:

• Three 8-foot lengths of 1/2-inch copper tubing (should be enough for most configurations), $20
• Four 90-degree copper elbows, 50 cents each
• Two hose clamps, 50 cents each
• Three 8-foot lengths of pipe insulation, $10
• 6 feet of clear food-grade tubing, 3/8-inch inner diameter, $5
• Two copper reducers from 1/2 inch to 3/8 inch, 50 cents each
• One sparge arm (we used Phil’s Sparge Arm)
• One Cornelius keg
• One C02 tank

Assembly Tools:

• Copper pipe cutter, $8
• Flux, $3
• Solder (lead free), $5
• Propane torch kit including propane and all of the above, $20
• Wrench
• Screwdriver
• Hammer

Copper Tubing Transit Line Assembly Step by Step:

1. Determine the best locations where you will 1) place your keg and C02 tank, and 2) place your grain bed (lauter tun) for sparging. In our case the keg and C02 tank are on the garage floor near one wall and next to a counter, and the lauter tun is placed on top of the counter several feet down from the location of the keg and C02 tank.
2. Sweat (weld using propane torch, flux, solder) lengths of 1/2-inch copper tubing so that the tubing will start about three feet off the ground (at the keg and C02 tank location) and run straight up the wall to the ceiling. Note: Do all welding and assembly on the floor and mount later. You can affix the copper tubing to the walls using hooks specially made for the purpose and available with the other copper tubing supplies in the plumbing department of your local hardware store.
3. Attach a 90-degree copper elbow to run another length of copper tubing along the seam where the wall meets the ceiling to desired location (in our case a few feet down along the counter).
4. Attach a 90-degree copper elbow and run another length of copper tubing along the ceiling to the desired location (in our case to the end just over the center of the counter top directly below).
5. Attach a 90-degree copper elbow and run another desired length of copper tubing straight down. This will likely be a short piece (2 feet) because from here you will attach clear tubing to reach the lauter tun.
6. Attach a 90-degree copper elbow to the other end (the keg/C02 tank end — the one three feet off the ground at the wall) and attach a 2-foot to 3-foot length of copper tubing from it so that it runs out parallel to the ground.
7. Attach a 1/2-inch-to-3/8-inch copper reducer to each end (the keg/C02 tank end and the lauter tun end) of the now-assembled copper transit line.
8. Attach the 3/8-inch inner diameter clear food-grade tubing over the ends of the copper reducers at both the keg/C02 tank end and the lauter tun end using hose clamps to secure.
9. Attach the sparge arm to the 3/8-inch clear tubing (on the lauter tun end).
10. Attach a beer pin lock to the 3/8-inch clear tubing on the keg/C02 end. Attach the beer pin lock to the Cornelius keg line out.
11. Insulate the copper tubing with foam pipe insulation.

With the copper tubing insulated, there is very little loss of heat in the process. By adjusting the amount of C02, you can control the flow of water sprinkling out of the sparge arm. It is much safer than the physically unstable gravity-based
system, quick and easy to hook up, and easy to clean (by running hot water or cleaning solution through it periodically), and it costs less than $50 in parts (excluding kegging equipment).

The copper tubing transit line is unobtrusive and out of the way when not in use, and it makes for a great conversation piece for brewers and non-brewers alike when they give it the inevitable double-take upon first quizzical glance.

Custom Ventilation System

Garage brewing on a cold day has one drawback: condensation. If not properly vented, the steam generated from a 90-minute wort boil can literally result in dripping walls and ceilings. Of course you should always provide adequate ventilation any time you use a propane cooker to boil indoors (a garage). On a cold or windy day, however, it is easy to want to partially close the garage door for comfort, and if so, I suggest you provide a secondary means to ventilate.

The quickest and easiest way to do this is to mount an overhead hood (from a kitchen range) on the ceiling of your brew space directly above the area where your brew kettle and propane cooker sit. Overall, this is an easy project that requires four main tasks: acquiring the hood, mounting it, connecting electricity to it, and venting it to the outside. Details of the four parts will depend on individual circumstance. I describe mine below:

Ventilation System Components:

• One new or used kitchen hood, $5-$200
• 8 feet of ventilation ducting, $15 for 7 feet or $8 for 4 feet
• One 7-inch-to-4-inch reducer, $4 (if needed)
• One dryer vent cap, $4
• One roll of electrical wire (50 feet), $10
• Two eye hooks
• 20 feet of chain

Assembly Tools:

• Duct tape
• Hole saw
• Screwdriver
• Wire cutters
• Electrical tape
• Wire stripper
• Pliers

Construction Tips:

Acquiring the hood: New range hoods cost $30 to $200 depending on size, fan type, and construction material. The typical 30-inch or 36-inch kitchen hood runs about $40 new. They are also easy to come by used at junk yards (where I got mine for $5) or free from friends who are remodeling their kitchens.

Mounting the hood: I suspended my hood with chains from hooks in the ceiling instead of permanently mounting it on or into the ceiling. This allows me to adjust the height of the hood by extending or shortening the chains.

Connecting electricity to the hood: For wiring, I connected a line of standard indoor 12-gauge electrical wire from a
nearby existing wall receptacle to a light switch receptacle that I installed on the same wall. I then ran more 12-gauge wire from the light switch receptacle to the hood. This configuration allows me to turn the hood on and off from the wall switch. I therefore leave the hood’s on/off switch in the on position.

As an option, you can simply run the wiring directly from the wall receptacle to the hood. In this case, you need to stand on a chair and physically turn on and off the hood each time you use it by using the hood’s on/off switch.

If you are not familiar with electrical wiring, get help with this project from someone who is.

Venting the hood: I used standard aluminum ventilation ducting (and good old duct tape) to attach to the hood and ran it out through a hole cut in the wall of the garage. I used a standard dryer vent cap on the outside of the garage wall for the venting. The top venting hoods have a 7-inch hole in the top and require either 7-inch ventilation ducting or an adapter (in my case 7-inch-to-4-inch reducer) to attach 4-inch ventilation ducting to run to the wall or roof vent cap.

It is also possible to mount the outlet end of the ventilation ducting at the screened vent in the eave where the wall meets the roof. Thus, no need to cut any holes. However, this will lead to moisture accumulating in the eaves, which you may not want. Otherwise, cut the 4-inch or 7-inch hole in the roof and vent out directly through a roof cap.

Written by John Marioni