Italian Pilsner
A dry-hopped German Pilsner
When I was first learning to homebrew in the 1990s, I relied on books from Dave Miller and Greg Noonan to teach me not only the what but the why about brewing. So, I naturally sought out other books by these authors, which is what led me to the book Continental Pilsener by Dave Miller. It’s a great read but I was somewhat confused by the recipes that were all dry hopped. If you check German brewing textbooks they don’t talk about dry hopping, which is in the English (and American) tradition. I tended to make my Pilsners in the German and Czech tradition, so I just kind of mentally filed away this note as a curiosity.
Fast forward to the 2010s when I first tried a Firestone Walker Pivo Pils. Judging in commercial competitions, it would sometimes show up on the best-of-show table as a German Pilsner. The discussion would usually go like, “great beer, but too many late hops for a Pilsner” but it didn’t really have a place to be entered, except perhaps as an Experimental Beer. But the idea of a hoppy Pilsner made sense to me as long as it didn’t have excessive grassiness or harshness, which is why Germans didn’t dry hop in the first place.
More recently, I’ve tried beers in South America marketed as hop lager, which is kind of the same idea as an Italian Pilsner but applied to an American lager base. Take something you know, then dry hop it and also boost the flavor hops while keeping the overall balance the same. It actually winds up being quite a drinkable beer and adds interest to a style craft beer enthusiasts often overlook.
Whether you consider a dry-hopped German Pils to be an Italian Pilsner or a hoppy Pilsner or some other name, in sanctioned BJCP (Beer Judge Certification Program) competitions it is best to enter this as a 34B Mixed-Style Beer, and say that it is a dry-hopped 5D German Pils. If using distinctive hops, the varieties could also be mentioned since this is a specialty-type beer. This style is for beers that “are a variation of an existing style using a non-traditional method or process for that style.” Commercial competitions using the Brewers Association guidelines might enter this beer as a Contemporary American-Style Pilsener, as they don’t currently have a narrow definition for Italian Pilsner either.
Italian Pilsner History
Here’s a style with a long and a short history. Pilsner is kind of like porter — it is a family of beers with a long and proud heritage. Originating in what is now the Czech Republic, being adapted in Germany and then being exported around the world with European immigrants bringing their traditions to the U.S. Then each of these variations evolving over time and inspiring even more experimentation worldwide.
But the first Italian Pilsner really traces to 1996 when Birrificio Italiano brewed their Tipopils. However, the beer didn’t get much international attention until it was acknowledged as the inspiration for Firestone Walker’s Pivo Pils. Other western breweries followed the lead and published recipes for both beers helped give them the needed information to try their own versions.
It can be confusing because it’s not a pale lager from Italy, like Moretti or Peroni — those are more like international pale lagers.
But why not just say this is a style and define it as such? Well, it’s new and evolving, for one. I don’t like rushing to jump on what may be a fad (hello, brut IPA) even if it seems popular at the time (I’m looking at you, black IPA). Also, if it’s similar enough to an existing style I kind of would like to see if the base style moves in that direction (that is, German Pils becoming more “Italian”). It’s easy enough to expand the definition of German Pils to cover that eventuality; I’m just not sure if that’s going to happen. I’m kind of in a similar wait-and-see mode with cold IPA — is it unique or is it where American IPAs are heading? Certainly, what many call West Coast IPA is just what American IPA has become nowadays. So, before styles are formally defined enthusiasts can understand the essence of the variation so distinctions can be understood.
I think it bears mentioning that Italian Pilsner is mostly a marketing name as the ingredients aren’t typically Italian. It was first brewed in Italy but the use of the name Italian is seen as something that evokes an image in the U.S. as something romantic, exotic, or flavorful. It can be confusing because it’s not a pale lager from Italy, like Moretti or Peroni — those are more like international pale lagers. So, just remember that Italian Pilsner is what some call a hoppy lager and the distinctions really only matter at the competition level.
Sensory Profile
This beer is superficially very similar to a German Pils. It clocks in around 5% alcohol, although some in the U.S. make it stronger. I don’t think it benefits from an alcohol edge, so keep it under an IPA. The beer is pale, light-gold at most, and is clear with a rocky, white head. It shouldn’t be watery, but not heavy either, so medium-light is about right. The balance should be bitter, but it shouldn’t be sharp, harsh, or biting. It should have a clean fermentation character and a smooth, well-lagered texture. The beer is well-attenuated with a dry finish, but it doesn’t need to have a super-crisp bite. I think some softness in the finish drinks well.
So maybe it’s best to focus on the small differences in the style compared to a German Pils. The late hops are the first thing to notice. The flavor and aroma hops are more prominent and the aroma can have a freshly dry-hopped character. The hops don’t need to be at the IPA level; just more noticeable than in a German Pils. The bitterness does not need to be higher, certainly not to the Jever Pilsener level. I don’t think it typically has a minerally, flinty, sulfury finish, since a sulfury quality from the water (or yeast or hops . . .) can detract from the hop profile.
There can be a lightly fruity note to the beer, either from the hops or a slight yeast contribution. This character is optional, but not unwelcome. The malt should evoke flavors associated with good-quality continental Pilsner malt, like crackery or faintly honey-like. I would think of the beer as nicely balanced and drinkable, but I realize that many think that is too subjective of a description. It can seem to have a slightly higher malt flavor than a German Pils, but that is mostly a function of it not being as crisp in the finish.
The beer should not be boozy or harsh; the hopping should not seem over the top; the malt shouldn’t get into the toasty, bready, or biscuity range; and the hops shouldn’t be citrusy, dank, resiny, piney, or otherwise too abrupt. This is still a European beer and it should have the elegant malt and hop profile and smooth lager notes that so many other beers from the continent have.
Honestly, this beer has much of the profile that I found that I like in New Zealand Pilsners, which aren’t necessarily fermented with lager yeast. The hop character is different but the overall balance and impression can be similar. Softer than a German Pilsner, not as rich as a Czech Pilsner, and with an interesting hop character. The details are different but the drinkability is the same. This is a beer style for brewers, for sure.
Brewing Ingredients and Methods
Except for the dry hopping, using German Pilsner methods and ingredients makes perfect sense. Start with a base of Pilsner malt, typically of continental origin, and not any special treatment like floor-malting. It should not have a biscuity or toasty edge to it. A light treatment of character grain is possible, something well under 10% of the grist. Pivo Pils uses some CaraFoam®, Tipopils uses a touch of light CaraMunich®, and others have used things like Cara-Pils®, CaraHell®, or even light Munich malt. Some of these character grains are for head retention, so might be used like homebrewers often use wheat (at about 3% of the grist), and others are just deepening the color a shade. They shouldn’t be adding significant flavor, but could help with the softness on the palate and in the finish by adding some dextrins.
The beer can be produced by step infusion or decoction, but step infusions are the more modern German tradition. The goal is a beer that is attenuated but still has some body. It shouldn’t have a heavy or sweet finish, but some dextrins are welcome to soften the finish. Some brewers add acidulated malt to reduce pH during the mash while other (non-Germans) can use mineral acids. Keeping the mash pH low helps keep the beer pale and clear, and encourages good conversion.
The hop choice is the main area of interest for this beer. Tipopils uses Northern Brewer for bittering, with Perle, Spalt, and Saphir for flavor and aroma. Pivo Pils uses Spalt, Tradition, and Saphir. Hops are typically of continental European origin and have floral, herbal, spicy, or lightly fruity notes. More modern European hops are used for dry hopping since traditional European hops often have a grassy or harsh quality when used this way. Hops with British or New World characteristics are best saved for other styles. Avoid the tendency to overhop the beer; you aren’t making an IPA.
Modern dry hopping techniques can be used but there is no need for biotransformation, so the hops can be added post-fermentation. Current thinking is that shorter contact times are better and that multiple additions are often beneficial. This allows more opportunity for a creative brewer to sample and dial in the right level of hops. The method used for dry hopping varies by brewer, so choose what works best on your equipment while minimizing the likelihood of oxygen pickup.
Normal German fermentation and lagering practices should be followed and the yeast is typically a clean, well-attenuating lager strain that produces very little sulfur. Fermentation may be slightly warmer than typical, but still in the lager range. The resulting beer shouldn’t be overly fruity, but the presence of some esters shouldn’t be treated as a fault.
Homebrew Example
This recipe is structured very much like a German Pils recipe, but with the late hops taking a more forward role. You can be a little more picky about specific varieties of hops and malts to be slightly more authentic, if you’d like.
The base malt should be mostly continental Pilsner malt. If you want to claim an Italian link, you can use the Weyermann Eraclea Pilsner Malt, which comes from Italy. It is a winter barley grown just miles from the Adriatic Sea, which makes this malt distinct from German malts made from spring varieties grown in very different climatic regions. However, the normal Pilsner malt offering from a German maltster would do just fine here. I bump up the color and mouthfeel slightly with some Munich malt, but a pale crystal (20 °L or less) or dextrin malt could also be used for the same purpose. Just try to avoid choosing malts with a toasty, biscuity, or caramelly flavor, but a touch of honey or light toffee is OK.
Germans normally step mash their Pilsners, so I use that technique as well. If your system can only handle a single infusion, shoot for something in the 149–151 °F (65–66 °C) range. Your goal is a well-attenuated beer that still has a medium-light body and mouthfeel. I don’t like adding sulfates to the water as I’m looking for a soft finish, not something sharp. This is a departure from some Northern German Pilsners. I do, however, adjust the pH of my brewing water so that I get a pH in the mash of around 5.1. Acidulated malt or lactic or phosphoric acids are options to get the mash there.
I’m taking clues from both Tipopils and Pivo Pils for the hops in that I’m featuring Saphir as the dry hop and using Spalt as a flavor hop. The flavor hops are added as first wort hops, which also contributes to the bitterness. The old workhorse Magnum hop gives a clean bitterness and lets me hit my IBU target. You can have a more layered hop schedule, but this gives you the bitterness, flavor, and aroma you need. I’m not going super high on the IBUs, because I want this beer to have a softer finish without too much of a hop bite.
Nothing special about the yeast; the reliable W-34/70 from SafLager (or equivalent since most yeast manufacturer have this popular strain in their lineup) is my choice and you can pick it from your favorite supplier around the world. I find the dry yeast easy to handle and reliable, so that’s my first choice. I’m fermenting slightly warmer than in a German Pils, and you can allow this yeast to rise in temperature up to 59 °F (15 °C) if you like. I take my time lagering, which I think gives the beer a smooth profile.
The resulting balance of the beer should be hoppy on the nose, clean flavors on the palate, and with a soft finish. The balance is bitter, but it shouldn’t drink like an IPA. The alcohol is around 5.1%, so you can enjoy a few pints. I do like making beers with a high degree of drinkability, and this one suits the bill. Hope you enjoy it too.
Italian Pilsner by the Numbers
OG: 1.044–1.050
FG: 1.008–1.013
SRM: 2–4
IBU: 22–40
ABV: 4.4–5.2%
Italian Pilsner
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.048 FG = 1.010
IBU = 29 SRM = 4 ABV = 5.1%
Ingredients
9.5 lbs. (4.3 kg) Pilsner malt
8 oz. (227 g) Munich malt
4.75 AAU Spalt hops (first wort hop) (1 oz./28 g at 4.75% alpha acids)
3 AAU Magnum hops (60 min.) (0.25 oz./7 g at 12% alpha acids)
1 oz. (28 g) Saphir hops (dry hop)
SafLager W-34/70, Omega Yeast OYL-106 (German Lager 1), or Wyeast 2124 (Bohemian Lager) yeast
7⁄8 cup corn sugar (for priming)
Step by Step
This recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO) water. Adjust all brewing water to a pH of 5.5 using phosphoric acid. Add 1 tsp. of calcium chloride to the strike water.
Use enough water to have a moderately thick mash (1.5 qts./lb. or 3.1 L/kg). Mash in the malts at 131 °F (55 °C) and hold for 10 minutes. Raise the temperature to 147 °F (64 °C) and hold for 40 minutes. Raise the temperature to 160 °F (71 °C) and hold for 10 minutes. Begin recirculating, raise the mash temperature to 169 °F (76 °C), and recirculate for 15 minutes.
Put the first wort hops in the boil kettle, then sparge slowly and collect 7 gallons (26.5 L) of wort.
Boil the wort for 90 minutes, adding the Magnum hops 30 minutes after the start of the boil.
Chill the wort to 52 °F (11 °C), pitch the yeast, and ferment at this temperature until complete. Allow temperature to rise to 59 °F (15 °C) during the second half of fermentation to prevent early flocculation. Rack to secondary, add dry hops for 3 days then remove hops. Continue to lager for two months at 32 °F (0 °C).
Rack the beer, prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate.
Italian Pilsner
(5 gallons/19 L, extract only)
OG = 1.048 FG = 1.010
IBU = 29 SRM = 4 ABV = 5.1%
Ingredients
5.6 lbs. (2.5 kg) Pilsen dried malt extract
4.75 AAU Spalt hops (first wort hop) (1 oz./28 g at 4.75% alpha acids)
3 AAU Magnum hops (60 min.) (0.25 oz./7 g at 12% alpha acids)
1 oz. (28 g) Saphir hops (dry hop)
SafLager W-34/70, Omega Yeast OYL-106 (German Lager 1), or Wyeast 2124 (Bohemian Lager) yeast
7⁄8 cup corn sugar (for priming)
Step by Step
Use 6.5 gallons (24.5 L) of water in the brew kettle; heat to 158 °F (70 °C).
Turn off the heat. Add the malt extract and stir thoroughly to dissolve completely. Turn the heat back on, add the first wort hops, and bring to a boil.
Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding the Magnum hops at the start of the boil.
Chill the wort to 52 °F (11 °C), pitch the yeast, top up fermenter to 5.25 gallons (20 L), then ferment at this temperature until complete. Allow temperature to rise to 59 °F (15 °C) during the second half of fermentation to prevent early flocculation. Rack to secondary, add dry hops for 3 days then remove hops. Continue to lager for two months at 32 °F (0 °C).
Rack the beer, prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate.
Tips for Success:
While maintaining cool, cellar-like temperatures during the first half of active fermentation should produce the cleanest beer, this yeast strain is very forgiving and can tolerate temperatures into the 60s °F (mid-teens °C) without increasing potential for off-flavors such as fusels and esters.
