Why Malt Matters – The Basics on the Backbone of Beer
Is the malt you select the most important decision you make when formulating a beer recipe or purchasing homebrew ingredients? It might not be, but I’d wager a bet you’re more worried about the hops and yeast you’re using. Let’s see if I can change your mind.
Okay, so your laid-back approach to malt is probably not your fault. Part of this might be the fault of the malting industry itself. The process is intensive, and often industrial. Unlike hops and yeast there aren’t usually dozens of new malts on the market each year with intense new flavors and creative names and creative marketing packages. Also, hops can be grown at home, and yeast can be propagated at home as well, increasing homebrewing participation and awareness in regards to these ingredients. But, grow your own barley? Not that common. Malting it? Even trickier.
It’s this lack of intensive malt marketing, coupled with a general unfamiliarity with malting, that makes it difficult to grasp the nuts and bolts of beer’s most critical ingredient. It’s only natural that with this perception of limited malt options comes limited consideration for their role in your beer. But there are options — many of them. Let’s run through some of the most important aspects of this complex ingredient. We’ll focus on how malt is made, the various types of malt, how to taste and select malt, as well as storing and using malt — keys to perfecting your brewing results.
The Process of Malting: In A Nutshell
Malt is any raw grain that has been germinated and dried for enzyme development. These enzymes are necessary to convert the starches in grain into sugar. The process also shelf stabilizes the product, which is crucial for long transport and storage. The process typically consists of three or four steps depending on the type of malt made: Steeping, germination, and kilning (or drying). The fourth step, roasting, is used to make specialty malts like caramel and other darker malts.
Steeping – This process is exactly how it sounds. The steeping process typically lasts around 48 hours. During this time the grain is soaked and drained in intervals, often four to eight hours at a time, depending on the variety of barley, and how well it takes up water. As water is absorbed by the grain, the total amount of moisture in the kernel jumps from around 12% to about 44%. With this additional water, the critical ingredient for life, the barley seed thinks, “I should grow into barley.” The current available enzymes inside stimulate the embryo, which wakes up and goes to work. It creates more enzymes, which in turn break down protein around the starch inside. Hormones inside the kernel then recognize that they have water and food available and begin to activate growth of the acrospire, the main plant shoot inside the husk, and sprout rootlets. This little white rootlet sprout just visible out of the barley is known as “chit,” and the barley is referred to as “chitted” at this point.
Germination – As soon as the barley is chitted and at the correct moisture uptake level of around 44% it is moved from the steeping tanks to long beds referred
to as germination tanks. Here the barley sits for four to five days and the maltster watches the chit grow into rootlets. The grain is turned during germination to keep the barley from growing together and to maintain consistent growth throughout the bed. If the grain was left alone during this time, it would create one giant mass of barley. This is the maltster’s worst nightmare, and is sometimes called “felting,” as it resembles the
fibrous material of the same name.
If this occurs, the barley must be manually separated prior to moving to
the kiln.
During germination modification occurs. Most malt on the market is “fully modified” referring to the germination process completely breaking down the grain’s proteins and carbohydrates until the starch reserves are easily accessible by enzymes, allowing us to turn them into sugar during the mashing process when brewing.
Kilning and Roasting – If we let germination continue malthouses would be greenhouses growing barley and not making malt! Before the barley plant can use up all of the good stuff inside the seed that we want, like the starch and enzymes, we need to stop germination. Germination is halted by kilning, a drying process. The malt is exposed to heat for anywhere from a few hours to a few days to lower the moisture in the malt, typically to around 4.5%. Time and temperature will be the maltster’s main tools for determining the final malt product they make.
Whereas kilning typically uses temperatures between 160 and 220 °F (71 to 104 °C), roasting often uses temperatures from 160 °F (71 °C) all of the way up to 750 °F (~400 °C). This temperature range allows for darker malts and a larger variety of color and flavor. Roasting uses a number of different techniques, and also includes products made from raw grain that are not germinated and kilned into malt. Caramel malts, which are typically steeped to convert the starch into sugar inside the kernel are also roasted. After steeping they are roasted at high temperatures, which creates a hard glassy bead of sugar inside the grain.
Through the malting process we create the majority of enzymes used in mashing and brewing. Keep in mind this can be attained with almost any variety of grain, not just barley. Wheat, oats, and rye are also popular malt options, and in some beer styles the majority of your grain bill. Besides malted grain, we use a smaller amount of different sugars and adjuncts. These are typically a small portion of the overall grain and sugar in a beer. Adjuncts are unmalted, or raw grain. This includes barley and wheat, as well as rice, oats, rye, corn (maize), or any other type of grain that has not been malted. This grain may have been processed into flakes, torrified (or popped), ground into flour, or used in its raw kernel form. These grains have less enzymatic power, which can lead to less sugars and flavor contribution without high enzymatic grain present, or enzymes added.
Base Malts: The Main Ingredient
The majority of malts that are made in a kiln are “base malts”. These malts provide the majority of brewing starches and the enzymes to convert those starches into sugar. The two most common base malts are typically referred to as two-row and six-row. These names are so generic that they often cause a lot of confusion for homebrewers. Two-row (2-row) and six-row (6-row) are the general classifications given to many different varieties of barley, based on their growing pattern. Six-row barley grows in three rows on alternating orientations up the stalk, whereas two-row barley only has two opposing rows up the stalk. The industry adopted any malt that was light in color, high in enzyme activity, plump and starchy as two-row or six-row base malt. Some companies provide a further descriptor, such as Briess Brewers Malt. Malteurop’s most common base malt is called Malteurop American Two-Row.
Beyond standard two-row and six-row, base malt becomes more interesting. Often other base malts are considered specialty or traditional base malt styles. A specialty base malt would be something like Gambrinus’ ESB malt. It’s based on traditional English pale ale malting processes, but they’ve adapted it to their barley varieties and modern malthouse. Here’s a look at common names for a variety of base malts. All of the malts in Figure 1 on this page can be used to make up 100% of your grain bill.
Specialty Malts: The Flavor Saviors
This is the fun part — the flavor. If base malt is the canvas, then specialty malt is the paint. Anything that won’t make up the majority (more than 50%) of your beer recipe can be referred to as a specialty malt. Many of these malts spend a longer time in the kiln, at higher temperatures, or get roasted to add depth, complexity and flavor to our beers. Many of these malts often get unique and trademarked names, as each malthouse has different techniques, tricks and secrets it employs in making them. Figure 2 to the left shows some of the most common types of specialty malts.
Did you find the flavor in your barley you were looking for? Looking for something different? Maybe it’s time for malted quinoa. Caramel sorghum? Black roasted millet? Unlike new, dynamic and interesting hop flavors that the industry begs for, no one seems to be creating the same frenzy over malt. With a little more understanding of what can be done, and what flavors can be created, the world of malt can create a variety of new flavors with new grains using new processes. As homebrewers we love to play with flavor. It’s up to us to gain a good understanding of what the malt we’re using tastes like, and what attributes we want to see in the future.
Selecting Malt: Taste It!
You, as the recipe designers, the basement brewers, the garage grog artists, need to do as chefs do. Taste your ingredients, make notes, understand what you’re brewing with, and know your options. This is most critical with malt, where subtle nuances can change everything. Just as hops change year to year, so does barley grown for malting. They’re both agricultural products, and they can change dramatically, especially as they age.
Flavor should be your biggest concern when choosing malt. “Go to your local homebrew shop,” said Peter Caddoo, Brewmaster at NOLA Brewing in New Orleans. “Taste everything. Smell it, chew it. You can’t do that when you buy online, and it can make a big difference in the malt you buy,” said Caddoo. Another benefit of a local homebrew shop is the service. “If you go in and don’t like a malt you had in your recipe, look around, try things out, and ask for a recommendation,” said Caddoo.
The “chew test” is one of the most critical. “Chew it. Taste it. If you don’t like how it tastes, you probably won’t like how it tastes in the beer.” explains Mike Lundell, Brewer at Summit Brewing Company of St. Paul, Minnesota. The chew test is simple:
1. Put a quarter ounce of malt in your hand.
2. Check the aroma. Does the malt smell OK?
3. Chew the malt for at least 1 minute. The flavors that will develop in your beer will slowly come out.
4. Swallow. Does it still taste good in your mouth? The aftertaste can tell you a lot.
One other thing the chew test can tell you is if the malt is “slack.” Slack malt is malt that has gone soft. This occurs as moisture enters the grain through humidity in the air or wetting. When you chew the malt it will feel soft and will have lost some of its flavor. Prior to brewing with your beer, this is the worst thing that can happen to your grain. There are a variety of associated issues including: Poor milling, mold which can lead to musty flavor and aroma, a turbid muddy wort, and a loss of efficiency in the mash tun. Usually this is a result of poor transport or storage, something to keep in mind when storing your malt. Note: Do not refrigerate or freeze your malt, it may cause it to go slack prior to milling due to moisture buildup as it is brought up to temperature. A chew test can also indicate age, freshness, potency, and will bring out the most distinct flavors of the malt. Once you’ve selected and purchased your malt and you are home, you can also do a wort evaluation. Evaluating the wort or liquid-based characteristics of a malt can be simple as well. There are numerous scientific methods used in laboratories at breweries and malthouses to provide the brewer with sensory information on a malt. The most important sensory though, is how it tastes to you. There are numerous simple methods for wort sensory that can be used at home. The first is known as the coffee pot method:
1. Finely mill 2 oz. (57 g) of malt in a coffee grinder.
2. Add ground malt to coffee filter and place in coffee maker, like making coffee.
3. Add 8 oz. (1 cup/0.23 mL) of water to coffee maker.
4. Make the wort as you would make a pot of coffee.
5. Let cool and pour in clear cup to see color attributes.
This method can be transferred to many other beverage making techniques that strain the basis of the beverage. If you own a tea strainer, or French press, you can follow the filter method:
1. Heat 8 oz. (1 cup/0.23 mL) of water to 160 °F (71 °C).
2. Grind the malt into coarse flour and add to hot water in a French press or tea filter.
3. Let stand for 15 minutes.
4. Remove malt flour and let wort cool prior to sampling.
Tasting the wort will give you an even better understanding of the qualities the malt will add to your beer. Take notes! Look at the color, check the aroma, and taste it. There are numerous flavor wheels online for beer, which can be used for tasting wort as well. Also, check the manufacturer’s description of the malt — do you taste what they taste? Use their descriptors and add words like “slight” or “strong” so you remember what you tasted and smelled.
Storage and Freshness: Keep It Cool and Dry
Malt, when stored properly, has been designed to last a long time. The process reduces moisture, the main enemy of malt. Whether your malt is milled or whole grain, keeping it in an airtight container is key. One misconception is that milled (or ground) malt expires fast and should be used immediately. This is only true if your storage is less than ideal. Humidity penetrates your grain much easier and faster once it is milled. Moisture is the enemy, and your grain will become slack. If you’re able to keep the malt cool, as well as stored in an airtight container, your milled grain will last for months. When the temperature gets warm or the temperature fluctuates the malt degrades and may take up moisture quicker. It’s critical for grain to be shipped properly or it can become musty, moldy and slack quite easy. So what are the ideal conditions for storing your malt?
1. Airtight container or original sealed sack.
2. Between 50-70 °F (10-21 °C) with little fluctuation in temperature.
3. An area free of pests such as mice and insects.
4. Low to no humidity.
Most manufacturers of malt provide a “best by” date for their malt. Using a lot number on your malt you may be able to determine when your malt was manufactured by contacting either the distributor or manufacturer. Many manufacturers believe that if stored in IDEAL conditions, malted products can last years beyond their best by date. Let’s look at an average of best by dates for a few brewing product categories in Figure 3 (facing page).
If you’re like me, you’ve got a hodge podge of grain around. It gathers in various containers, and soon my brew day is decided by what I have on hand. Before you brew, chew. If time allows, sip and sample wort as well. It may save you from a bad batch.
Make It Malty: What to Brew
If you’d like an idea of what a base malt will contribute to your recipes, try SMaSH (single malt, single hop) brewing with it. By going with a single malt and a single hop, you won’t get confused where your malt and hop character is coming from. Choose a neutral yeast like Fermentis US-05 or Danstar Nottingham ale yeast. If you make it too hoppy you won’t get a good idea of the malt flavor, so dial it back to 20 to 25 international bittering units (IBUs) total in your recipe.
Malt-Forward Styles
There are many malty beer styles out there that have all the complexity of a fine wine, whiskey, or even an IPA. “I love Maibock. It’s one of my favorite beers. The medium alcohol content, mild hoppiness, and simplicity of the grain bill lets whatever malt you choose to use shine,” said Peter Caddoo. All styles of bock, and almost all German lagers for that matter, have been the go-to malt monsters in Europe, and now in American craft breweries. While the Maibock whistles a sweeter, simple song, doppelbock comes at you full force. There’s no holding back malt flavor, aroma and complexity with this style.
Ales have their share of malt forward styles as well. Many English styles pride themselves on balance, and often on the complexity of the malt flavors achieved using only a few grains. Scottish and Irish ales share this distinction as well. One style that’s making a comeback here in the United States is Baltic porter. Although it can be brewed as a lager, many breweries have adapted to fermenting with ale yeast, which works well for this style. There’s a world of malt out there, and a world of styles that accentuates this ingredient. Can beer be brewed without hops? Of course. But without malt? Not a single style. Having an understanding of malt, possibly the most important ingredient in brewing, will change the quality of your beers, and how you brew, forever.
Doppelbockinator
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.091 FG = 1.023
IBU = 24 SRM = 18 ABV = 9.7%
Ingredients
13 lbs. (5.9 kg) Munich malt (6 °L)
3.2 lbs. (1.45 kg) continental Pilsner malt
3.2 lbs. (1.45 kg) Goldpils® Vienna malt (3.5 °L)
9 oz. (255 g) caramel Munich malt (60 °L)
2 oz. (57 g) Blackprinz® malt
4.5 AAU Hallertauer Hersbrucker hops (60 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 4.5% alpha acids)
4.5 AAU Hallertauer Hersbrucker hop pellets (5 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 4.5% alpha acids)
1⁄2 tsp. yeast nutrient (15 min.)
White Labs WLP833 (German Bock Lager) or Wyeast 2206 (Bavarian Lager) yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Lallemand CBC-1 yeast (if priming)
Step by Step
It is recommended to brew a smaller lager and use the yeast cake from that beer to pitch into this beer. See “Tips for Success.”
On brew day, mix the milled grain in 5.75 gallons (22 L) of water and hold the mash at 154 ºF (67 ºC) for 60 minutes. Slowly sparge with enough water to collect 7 gallons (26.5 L) wort. Total boil time is 90 minutes. Add the first hop addition with 60 minutes remaining in the boil. Add the remaining hops and yeast nutrient per the schedule.
After the boil is complete, cool the wort to 50 ºF (10 ºC). Pitch your yeast and aerate the wort heavily. Ferment at 55 ºF (13 ºC) until primary fermentation is complete. Gently transfer to a secondary vessel. If required perform a diacetyl rest. Lager for 6 weeks at 48 ºF (9 ºC). Prime and bottle condition or keg and force carbonate to 2.5 volumes CO2. We recommend priming with a bottling yeast strain like Lallemand CBC-1.
Doppelbockinator
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.091 FG = 1.023
IBU = 24 SRM = 18 ABV = 9.7%
Ingredients
9.9 lbs. (4.5 kg) Munich liquid malt extract
2 lbs. (0.91 kg) Pilsen dried malt extract
9 oz. (255 g) caramel Munich malt (60 °L)
2 oz. (57 g) Blackprinz® malt
4.5 AAU Hallertauer Hersbrucker hops (60 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 4.5% alpha acids)
4.5 AAU Hallertauer Hersbrucker hop pellets (5 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 4.5% alpha acids)
1⁄2 tsp. yeast nutrient (15 min.)
White Labs WLP833 (German Bock Lager) or Wyeast 2206 (Bavarian Lager) yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Lallemand CBC-1 yeast (if priming)
Step by Step
It is recommended to brew a smaller lager and use the yeast cake from that beer to pitch into this beer. See “Tips for Success.”
On brew day, place the crushed grains in a small muslin bag. Steep the milled grain in 2 gallons (7.6 L) of water at 160 ºF (71 ºC) for 20 minutes. Remove the grain bag and place in a colander. Wash with 2 qts. (2 L) hot water. Add the liquid and dried malt extract and stir until fully dissolved. Top off to 6 gallons (23 L) and bring to a boil. When the wort comes to a boil, add first hop addition. Add the remaining hops and yeast nutrient per the schedule.
After the boil is complete, cool the wort to 50 ºF (10 ºC). Pitch your yeast and aerate the wort heavily. Ferment at 55 ºF (13 ºC) until primary fermentation is complete. Gently transfer to a secondary vessel. If required, perform a diacetyl rest. Lager for 6 weeks at 48 ºF (9 ºC). Prime and bottle condition or keg and force carbonate to 2.5 volumes CO2. We recommend pitching a bottling yeast strain like Lallemand CBC-1 to help the primary yeast strain properly carbonate the beer with a high gravity beer like this.
Tips for Success:
The recommended pitch rate for a beer of this size — according to Mr. Malty (www.mrmalty.com) — is 616 billion cells, which would be about a 2-gallon (7.6-L) yeast starter. Your best bet is to get your yeast starter going a couple of days ahead of time so you can decant the liquid. Or better yet, step the yeast up from a low-gravity “small” beer in order to create enough healthy yeast cells for this high-gravity beer.
Stockholm Syndrome Baltic Porter
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.074 FG = 1.019
IBU = 39 SRM = 27 ABV = 7.6%
Ingredients
11.5 lbs. (5.2 kg) Vienna malt (3.5 °L)
1 lb. (0.45 kg) amber malt (23 °L)
1 lb. (0.45 kg) brown malt (65 °L)
1 lb. (0.45 kg) caramel Vienne malt (20 °L)
1 lb. (0.45 kg) Briess Extra Special malt (130 °L)
0.5 lb. (0.23 kg) Carafa® Special II malt (430 °L)
9 AAU Styrian Goldings hops (60 min.) (1.5 oz./43 g at 6% alpha acids)
6 AAU Styrian Goldings hops (10 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 6% alpha acids)
1⁄2 tsp. yeast nutrient (10 min.)
White Labs WLP023 (Burton Ale) or Wyeast 1275 (Thames Valley Ale) or Mangrove Jack’s M79 (Burton Ale) yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
This is a single step infusion mash. Bring 5 gallons (19 L) of water to 166 ºF (74 ºC). Mash grains at 152 ºF (67 ºC) for 1 hour. While mashing, bring 4.5 gallons (17 L) sparge water up to 180 ºF (82 ºC). Slowly sparge, you should collect 6 gallons (22.7 L) of wort with a gravity about 1.061.
Once 6 gallons (22.7 L) of wort is collected, bring to a rolling boil, and add 1.5 oz. (43 g) Styrian Goldings hops. After 50 minutes of boil time, add the second 1 oz. (28 g) of Styrian Goldings hops as well as the yeast nutrients. After the boil is complete, cool the wort to 68 ºF (20 ºC) and pitch 2 packs or equivalent starter of yeast.
Ferment at 68 ºF (20 ºC) for 2 weeks, then transfer to secondary fermentor and hold at 68 ºF (20 ºC) for an additional 2 weeks. Force carbonate or naturally condition in keg or bottles with 3⁄4 cups priming sugar for 3-4 weeks at 68 ºF (20 ºC).
Stockholm Syndrome Baltic Porter
(5 gallons/19 L, partial mash)
OG = 1.074 FG = 1.019
IBU = 39 SRM = 27 ABV = 7.6%
Ingredients
2.5 lbs. (1.13 kg) extra light dried malt extract
3.3 lbs. (1.5 kg) Munich liquid malt extract
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) Vienna malt (3.5 °L)
1 lb. (0.45 kg) amber malt (23 °L)
1 lb. (0.45 kg) brown malt (65 °L)
1 lb. (0.45 kg) caramel Vienne malt (20 °L)
1 lb. (0.45 kg) Briess Extra Special malt (130 °L)
0.5 lb. (0.23 kg) Carafa® Special II malt (430 °L)
9 AAU Styrian Goldings hops (60 min.) (1.5 oz./43 g at 6% alpha acids)
6 AAU Styrian Goldings hops (10 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 6% alpha acids)
1⁄2 tsp. yeast nutrient (10 min.)
White Labs WLP023 (Burton Ale) or Wyeast 1275 (Thames Valley Ale) or Mangrove Jack’s M79 (Burton Ale) yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Place the crushed Vienna, amber, brown, and Extra Special grains in a large muslin bag. Steep the milled grain in 2 gallons (7.6 L) of water at 152 ºF (67 ºC) and hold at this temperature for 45 minutes. Place the remaining crushed grains in another muslin bag and add to the mash along with another gallon of water at 170 ºF (77 ºC). Hold for 10 minutes. Remove both grain bags and place in a colander. Slowly wash with 1.5 gallons (5.7 L) hot water. Add the liquid and dried malt extract and stir until fully dissolved. Top off to 6 gallons (22.7 L) and bring to a boil. When the wort comes to a boil, add 1.5 oz. (43 g) Styrian Goldings hops. After 50 minutes of boil time, add the second 1 oz. (28 g) of Styrian Goldings hops as well as the yeast nutrients.
After the boil is complete, cool the wort to 68 ºF (20 ºC) and pitch 2 packs or equivalent starter of yeast. Ferment at 68 ºF (20 ºC) for 2 weeks, then transfer to secondary fermentor and hold at 68 ºF (20 ºC) for an additional 2 weeks. Force carbonate or naturally condition in keg or bottles with 3⁄4 cups priming sugar for 3-4 weeks at 68 ºF (20 ºC).
