Québec Craft Beer Clone Recipes
When it comes to peeking over the neighbor’s fence, Québec is the US’s friendly abutter who heartily welcomes American brewing peers and consumers to hop that fence . . . and have a beer!
There are ample opportunities to partake in this unique form of international relations: Attending one of Québec’s many beer festivals; visiting the local brewpubs and taprooms that abound in both metro and rural burgs; and enjoying some of the goods that are available for purchase to haul homeward for personal enjoyment. Although customs regulations may occasionally throw a curve ball when bringing beer back to the States, the shared spirit of brewing techniques, styles, and conviviality knows no bounds or barriers.
A visit to taste the beers of Québec is an easy choice. The exchange rate can be favorable and the drive from the Northeast only a few hours (and if you live farther away, Pierre-Elliot-Trudeau airport is only 20 minutes from downtown Montréal). Additionally, Québec brewing culture is very accessible — rarely is speaking French a necessity as there seems to be a universal “brewer’s language” in play — even if it entails just gesturing and/or facial expressions. But if you can’t make it there yourself, don’t worry — I’ll take you on a quick tour right now, and later you can try brewing a few Québécois beers of your own with three clone recipes from a couple of my favorite up-and-coming breweries (starting on the next page).
Québec Brewing Roots
Québec brewing culture sprang from Euro-French and Anglo roots, but over the years has assimilated the styles and flavors of their Belgian, German and American cohorts as well. While French influence remains very apparent, it is by no means dominant in the brewing culture that had been historically wine-centric. The welcoming nature of Québecers who enjoy brewing and drinking their beer makes them some of the friendliest and most reciprocal folks I’ve ever met. They are as keenly interested in what is brewed in the States as what is produced in their own province.
Québec also has many devotees of homebrewing, borrowing aspects of the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) used in the US for style categorization and judging. Having never been menaced by the spector of Prohibition, yet able to observe and participate in it with US complicity, Québec has become enriched with the habits of its large and ethnically-diverse population that brought homebrewing and winemaking with them after WWII, and more recently as Third World refugees have been welcomed.
There is a bracing air of “DIY” in Québec. Locals enjoy traditional pleasures of good food, art, music, libations, and hockey (FYI: Political debate appears to be their “other” national sport!) It is a very diverse and energetic culture, of which quality commercially-produced craft beer is a rather new arrival. Having passed through the age of mass-produced lagers, Québec has emerged in the last 20 years as a producer of excellent craft beers brewed in scale from nano to mid-size, with the likes of giants Molson, Sleeman and Labatt forced to make room at the taps and in the coolers. Tastes that have changed and new breweries that are finding their footing — and each other — are driving a brewing renaissance in Québec.
I recall some of the first producers of craft beer in Québec when I began traveling to Montréal for the “exotic” pleasures that a large city offers — it was like a pauper’s trip to Europe in a weekend. This was the late 1980s when craft beer was just starting to take hold in the US. The McAuslan Brewery and Les Brasseurs RJ in Montréal were both making really nice ales and stouts then in the Anglo tradition. Le Cheval Blanc was the first of several brewpubs to later open in the city. Styles tended to lean toward English and Scottish — ESB, ordinary bitter, pale ale, Scotch ale, and stouts.
At the time I noticed that Belgian beer styles were quite popular in Québec, likely driven by Unibroue’s influence and the traditional French farming culture of northern Québec. Unibroue had hired a French-Belgian brewer who was turning out classic Belgian styles named for old Québec folk tales — there was a quirky story behind every beautiful label. And the beers were wonderful — wits, dubbels, tripels, quads, and an annual seasonal fruit beer — all brewed with a proprietary yeast strain that lent house esters, aromas and flavors. Belgian styles began to spread around the province, but when you walked into a brewpub you were often greeted with a chalkboard listing beers presented by color, not style: Blanche, ambrée, rousse, blonde, and noir corresponded to wit, brown ale, red ale, golden ale and stout or porter. Sometimes you would see Belgian monikers like Trappiste, bière de Garde, and quad. Very few German beers were in evidence at that time.
Unibroue beers started to become available in the US in the early 90s, and I credit them with my introduction to, and long-sustained interest in Belgian styles. Their Bières et Saveurs festival in Chambly (now run by the local Chamber of Commerce) allowed me the opportunity to taste top-notch Belgian imports, brought in for sale by the provincial liquor-control agency, the Société des alcools du Québec or SAQ. Some were only available at SAQ retail outlets; others could be located at local dépanneurs (convenience stores) or high-end gourmet shops and restaurants like fine wines. At this point, Québec beer culture was in the process of re-inventing itself.
Québec Brewing Culture
I spoke with Fred Cormier, owner/master brewer at the Hopfenstark Brewery in L’Assomption (northwest of Montréal) whose bottles are somewhat available in the States now. His is one of the province’s relatively new operations, and he is one of the younger brewers of the community. Fred described the brewing culture of Québec as progressing from styles that were brought to the public via newcomers from Europe; then the more Anglo approach with ubiquitous and inexpensive light golden lagers; to the “homebrewers-gone-pro” who now own and operate many of the craft breweries there. He started as a homebrewer and had no formal training or apprenticeship before starting his facility. Now he bottles for domestic and export, and maintains a popular taproom called Station Host in downtown Montréal where he tries out his pilot brews with the drinking public. Styles include Berliner weisse, wine barrel-aged saisons, spirit barrel-aged porters/stouts, and pale ales — many with unusual adjuncts.
Fred describes the culture of Québec people as one of continual adaptation to whatever circumstances evolve as “new” — from the inception of French settlers coming in after several wars with the British, to post-WWII three centuries later. Indigenous First Nation peoples were always a part of the mix. He feels that Québecers are a people that don’t like static situations and are constantly rallying for change. It is not a market to be filled these days; rather it his being re-created from the ground up.
Comparing Québec beer culture from 20 years ago to now, Fred describes styles that were a reflection of transient influence, from limited available ingredients and expertise of the era, to the widely available styles of present. French-Belgian cultural iconic brews began to displace the Anglo-inspired light lagers, mirroring the Franco-Anglo political and social conflicts of the time. Yeast became more of a celebrated ingredient. Hop varieties were not a big player back then, so hoppier styles were not given a lot of attention. As more craft breweries opened and brewers began to feel comfortable adapting to a more accepting and adventurous beer audience, that newfound confidence inspired more creative and independent recipes and styles to try out on the public, who were once again ready for change.
Although initially enamored of hoppy DIPAs and their ilk, Fred now prefers beers that are balanced in all aspects. His advice is to brew a base beer repeatedly until it is perfectly balanced, and then proceed to play with it in terms of flavors and treatments, making careful notes for every single tweak. He describes big, hoppy beers using the metaphor of a musician using a “wall of sound” to express him or herself. It is invigorating, but ultimately unidimensional and wearing on the audience. Conversely, a well-balanced beer of lower ABV is an accomplishment to make well, and is more akin to a solo acoustic guitarist whose every note plays a key role in the listener’s perception, opening them up to contemplation that begs to be shared with others. The “melody” of a great beer incorporates multiple layers of flavors, balance, and interplay in perfect harmony, opines Fred.
At a recent Mondial de la bière festival in Montréal, I had the opportunity to speak with Jean-François Gravel, (aka “JF”) master brewer and co-owner at Québec’s wildly popular Dieu du Ciel! Brewery. His recipes are pilot-brewed in 5-hectoliter batches at their Montréal brewhouse/taproom, and then put on draft to gauge interest before scaling up to 200-hectoliter batch production at their facility in Saint-Jérôme in the suburbs where their flagships are brewed and bottled. There are often 20 beers on offer at the brewpub. A common story for Gravel once again: He started as a homebrewer in ‘91; no formal beer school experience other than a degree in microbiology. He says he is rather surprised at the huge growth in craft beers in Québec, but light lagers can no longer command the market as they once did. He confirms that Unibroue also was a big influence on him for Belgian styles. He also cites Vermont publican and author, the late Greg Noonan, as a mentor. Greg delighted in spending time in Montréal sharing and absorbing technique, and socializing; then later hosting JF’s brew crew at his Vermont Pub and Brewery in Burlington, Vermont to make collaboration beers. JF also credits brewing with John Kimmich of The Alchemist Brewery, and Shaun Hill of Hill Famstead Brewery as time well spent to concoct some unique collaborative beers. The ongoing debate of whether black IPA originated with Greg at his brewpub with his iconic Black Watch has been sustained by JF’s collaboration with Shaun Hill to produce a beer called Pioneer. JF has also immortalized Greg on the label of a Dieu du Ciel! black IPA called Pénombre (“Twilight”). One of JF’s latest collaborations is with the hard/ice cidery Les Vergers de la Colline. He is experimenting with blending their unfermented cider with witbier wort and beer yeast to achieve a cider-beer hybrid. He relates that controlling the acid in the cider is the hardest part in achieving reliable fermentation. I tasted the pilot batch at Mondial de la bière and found it quite engaging — very dry, slightly tart, and redolent of Normandy-style funky ciders with a refreshing beer finish.
I also spent time at the Mondial festival chatting with Benoît Mercier, co-owner and master brewer of the Benelux Brewpubs — the original in Montréal, and its new sister brewery in the nearby suburb of Verdun. Given that the Verdun brewpub was the first establishment licensed to make and serve alcohol in dry Verdun since 1870, a lot of thought and commitment went into its concept and execution. Yet again — Benoît got started as a homebrewer, but he had no formal training when he opened his first brewpub. Local Québecer Philippe Tremblay is Head Brewer at the Montréal facility, and Teklad Pavisian holds that title at the Verdun location. Both showcase beers of a huge breadth of styles, but here the American, highly-hopped influence comes more into play.
North Meets South
Benoit suggests that Montréal’s proximity to northern New England has generated a lively exchange of ideas and techniques in Québec brewing culture recently (also citing Greg Noonan’s influence) as hop varieties become more accessible to them. Sours are also gaining traction. Saisons are a staple. As a university/high tech town, Montréal has a lot of forward-thinking patrons who enjoy drinking local as well as traveling south to taste what the States have to offer. They return and ask their local Québec publican if they can enjoy some of those unfamiliar styles, and the brewers come down to investigate or invite our brewers up there to discuss and share for some cross-border cultural pollination. Benoît has made a couple of collaboration beers with Vermont brewers at his facilities so far, and vice-versa. Several Québec breweries are now regular exhibitors at New England beer festivals, and Québec kegs are now showing up in taprooms in the States on a limited basis. Surely there will be more to come!
Bienvenue, amis des bière! Québec beers are welcome here, and we will share freely our cultures through the conviviality that beer naturally inspires in us all — borders be damned!
Québec City brewpub La Barberie serves up a wide selection of craft beers in the province’s capital.
Brasserie Dieu du Ciel! Route des épices (Spice route) clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.057 FG = 1.018
IBU = 29 SRM = 17 ABV = 5.3%
This is a malty rye ale spiced with peppercorns. It features rich chocolate and rye grain flavors, a medium body balance and a peppery finish. If you want the peppercorns to stay in the fermenter, you can bag them with the final hops addition. If you follow that process, the cooled wort with the peppercorns can go right from the kettle into the fermenter.
Ingredients
8.5 lbs. (3.8 kg) English pale ale malt
2 lbs. (0.91 kg) rye malt
12 oz. (0.34 kg) Cararye® malt (65 °L)
6 oz. (170 g) melanoidin malt
8 oz. (0.23 kg) pale chocolate malt (220 °L)
2.5 AAU Goldings hops (60 mins.)
(0.5 oz./14 g at 5% alpha acids)
6.3 AAU Bramling Cross hops (30 mins)
(1 oz./28 g at 6.3% alpha acids)
1 tsp. green peppercorns (0 mins.)
1 tsp. black peppercorns (0 mins.)
Wyeast 1318 (London Ale III) or Lallemand Windsor Ale yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
This is a single infusion mash. Mash the grains at 156 °F (69 °C) for a rich, fuller-bodied ale. Hold at this temperature for 60 minutes. Collect 6 gallons (23 L) of wort in the kettle and boil for 60 minutes, adding the first hop addition at the beginning of the boil and the second hop addition with 30 minutes left in the boil. Add the peppercorns at the termination of the boil and let them soak for five minutes before chilling.
Chill the wort to 68 °F (20 °C) and aerate it well. Pitch the yeast and ferment at that temperature.
Fermentation should commence within 24–48 hours. After primary fermentation, let the beer condition for one to two weeks before you bottle or keg. Carbonate to 2–2.5 volumes of CO2.
Brasserie Dieu du Ciel! Route des épices (Spice route) clone
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.057 FG = 1.018
IBU = 29 SRM = 17 ABV = 5.3%
Ingredients
6.6 lbs. (3 kg) golden liquid malt extract
1 lb. (0.45 kg) rye malt
12 oz. (0.34 kg) Cararye® malt (65 °L)
6 oz. (170 g) melanoidin malt
8 oz. (0.23 kg) pale chocolate malt (220 °L)
3.5 AAU Goldings hops (60 mins.)
(0.7 oz./20 g at 5% alpha acids)
6.3 AAU Bramling Cross hops (30 mins)
(1 oz./28 g at 6.3% alpha acids)
1 tsp. green peppercorns (0 mins.)
1 tsp. black peppercorns (0 mins.)
Wyeast 1318 (London Ale III) or Lallemand Windsor Ale yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Steep crushed grains in 6 qts (5.7 L) of water at 155 °F (68 °C) for 30-40 minutes. Wash the grains with 2 qts. (2 L) hot water. Add the malt extract to the grain tea and top off to boil volume of about 3 gallons (11.3 L). If you are doing a full 5-gallon (19 L) boil, use the hop quantities from the all-grain recipe.
This is a 60 minute boil, adding the first hop addition at the beginning of the boil and the second hop addition with 30 minutes left in the boil. Add the peppercorns at the termination of the boil and let them soak for five minutes before chilling.
Chill the wort to 68 °F (20 °C) and aerate it well. Pitch the yeast and ferment at that temperature. Fermentation should commence within 24–48 hours. After primary fermentation, let the beer condition for one to two weeks before you bottle or keg. Carbonate to 2–2.5 volumes of CO2.
Tips for Success:
Brewing with rye is notorious for causing stuck mashes. The amount of rye in this recipe is rather high, so it may be advisable to add some rice hulls to the mash. Between 1.5–3% of the total malt bill will work. You could also try using a step mash rather than a single infusion mash. As Erik Ogershok, Head Brewer of Real Ale Brewing Company in Blanco, Texas explains, “This is because the enzymes that break down the beta-glucans — and hence reduce the gumminess of your mash — are active in the lower temperature range (98–113 °F). You can take your choice of mash schedules.”
This recipe calls for Bramling Cross hops, a variety we don’t hear too much about. This is a British hop known for its “American” aroma. According to the British Hop Association (www.britishhops.org.uk/wgv/), Bramling Cross is a cross between Bramling (a traditional English Golding variety) and a male seedling of a Manitoban hop (a wild Canadian hop). If you can not source Bramling Cross, you can use extra Goldings, or try substituting with U.K. Progress or Whitbread Golding.
Brasserie Dieu du Ciel! Rosée d’hibiscus (Pinkish hibiscus) clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.055 FG = 1.011
IBU = 15 SRM = 5 ABV = 5.9%
Very pink, very floral, very crisp and light bodied — very drinkable! This beer’s color and aroma are quite eyecatching and aromatic. With just a hint of tartness (accentuated by the hibiscus), it is a perfect pair with creamy goat cheese or as an aperitif. Look for dried hibiscus flowers at your local food coop, health food store or from any local or online dried herb retailer.
Ingredients
5.2 lbs. (2.36 kg) Belgian Pilsner malt
4 lbs. (1.81 kg) wheat malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) light candi sugar (10 mins.)
2.9 AAU Nelson Sauvin hops (50 mins.)
(0.25 oz./7 g at 11.4% alpha acids)
4.6 AAU Nelson Sauvin hops (10 mins.)
(0.4 oz./11 g at 11.4% alpha acids)
2–4 oz. (57–113 g) dried hibiscus flowers (5 mins.)
0.5 oz. (14 g) coriander seed (0 mins.)
Wyeast 3944 (Belgian Witbier) or White Labs WLP400 (Belgian Wit Ale) or Fermentis Safbrew T-58 yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
This is a single infusion mash. Mash the grains at 150 °F (66 °C) for a crisp dry ale. Hold at this temperature for 60 minutes. Collect 6 gallons (23 L) of wort in the kettle and boil the wort for 90 minutes. Add the first hop addition 40 minutes after the beginning of the boil. With 10 minutes remaining in the boil, add the final hop addition and the candi sugar then wait five minutes before adding the hibiscus flowers. Wait another five minutes and then add the coriander seed at the termination of the boil; let it soak for five minutes before chilling.
Chill the wort to 68 °F (20 °C) and aerate it well. Pitch the yeast and ferment at that temperature. Fermentation should commence within 24–48 hours. After primary fermentation, let the beer condition for one to two weeks before you bottle or keg. Carbonate to 2–2.5 volumes of CO2.
Brasserie Dieu du Ciel! Rosée d’hibiscus (Pinkish hibiscus) clone
(5 gallons/19 L, extract only)
OG = 1.055 FG = 1.011
IBU = 15 SRM = 5 ABV = 5.9%
Ingredients
6.6 lbs. (3 kg) wheat liquid malt extract
1 lb. (0.45 kg) light candi sugar (10 mins.)
3.4 AAU Nelson Sauvin hops (50 mins.)
(0.3 oz./9 g at 11.4% alpha acids)
4.6 AAU Nelson Sauvin hops (10 mins.)
(0.4 oz./11 g at 11.4% alpha acids)
2–4 oz. (57–113 g) dried hibiscus flowers (5 mins.)
0.5 oz. (14 g) coriander seed (0 mins.)
Wyeast 3944 (Belgian Witbier) or White Labs WLP400 (Belgian Wit Ale) or Fermentis Safbrew T-58 yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Add the malt extract to 3 gallons (11.3 L) of hot water. If you are doing a full 5-gallon (19 L) boil, use the hop quantities from the all-grain recipe.
Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding the first hop addition 10 minutes after the beginning of the boil. With 10 minutes remaining in the boil, add the final hop addition and the candi sugar then wait five minutes to add the hibiscus flower. Wait another five minutes to add the coriander seed at the termination of the boil and let it soak for five minutes before chilling.
Chill the wort to 68 °F (20 °C) and aerate it well. Pitch the yeast and ferment at that temperature. Fermentation should commence within 24–48 hours. After primary fermentation, let the beer condition for one to two weeks before you bottle or keg. Carbonate to 2–2.5 volumes of CO2.
Tips for Success:
Brasserie Dieu du Ciel! Head Brewer Jean-Francois Gravel relays that the tartness (and some of the bitterness) from this recipe comes from the hibiscus flowers. He says, “The tartness is coming the hibiscus. Just be aware that the hibiscus will drop the pH of the wort down to 4.5 easily.”
Coriander can also be a somewhat tricky spice to brew with. The intensity of the spice can vary quite a bit depending on the source and freshness, and it is easy to overshoot the flavor. BYO’s “Style Profile” columnist Jamil Zainasheff advises crushing the seeds coarsely with the back of a heavy spoon rather than using whole seeds to get more coriander flavor into your brew. Also, “If you have fairly fresh coriander, start with 0.4 oz. (11 g) per 5-gallon (19-L) batch added during the last five minutes of the boil.” 
Hopfenstark Saison 16 clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.051 FG = 1.002
IBU = 25 SRM = 7 ABV = 6.5%
This is an extremely well balanced, easy-to-drink saison brewed with rye. The hops are not the star here, it’s all about the rye and the brewer’s skill.
Ingredients
8 lbs. (3.6 kg) Belgian Pilsner malt
2.25 lbs. (1 kg) flaked rye
7 oz. (200 g) Weyermann Caramunich® III malt (56 °L)
6 oz. (170 g) rice hulls
5.4 AAU German Magnum hops
(60 mins.) (0.4 oz./11 g at 13.5% alpha acids)
5 AAU German Tettnang hops
(10 mins.) (1 oz./28 g at 5% alpha acids)
Wyeast 3711 (French Saison) or Lallemand Belle Saison yeast
¾ cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
This is a single infusion mash. Mash the grains at 151 °F (66 °C) to develop a balanced mouthfeel and light body. Collect 6.5 gallons (25 L) of wort in the kettle and boil the wort for 90 minutes, adding the first hop addition 30 minutes after the beginning of the boil. With 10 minutes remaining in the boil, add the final hop addition.
Chill the wort to 73 °F (23 °C) and aerate it well. Pitch the yeast and fermentation should commence within 24–48 hours. Let the fermentation temperature rise up to about 79 °F (26 °C) over the course of the week and hold at a warmer temperature until fermentation is complete. After primary fermentation, let the beer condition for one to two weeks before you bottle or keg. Carbonate to 2.5–3 volumes of CO2.
Hopfenstark Saison 16 clone
(5 gallons/19 L, partial mash)
OG = 1.051 FG = 1.002
IBU = 25 SRM = 7 ABV = 6.5%
Ingredients
3.3 lbs. (1.5 kg) Pilsen liquid malt extract
3 lbs. (1.36 kg) Pilsner malt
2.25 lbs. (1 kg) flaked rye
7 oz. (200 g) Weyermann Caramunich® III malt (56 °L)
6.8 AAU German Magnum hops
(60 mins.) (0.5 oz./14 g at 13.5% alpha acids)
5 AAU German Tettnang hops
(10 mins.) (1 oz./28 g at 5% alpha acids)
Wyeast 3711 (French Saison) or Lallemand Belle Saison yeast
¾ cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Steep the crushed grains in 9 qts. (8.5 L) of water at 151 °F (66 °C) for 30–40 minutes. Wash the grains with
1 gallon (4 L) of hot water. Add the malt extract to the wort and top off with water to achieve a boil volume of about 3 gallons (11.3 L). If you are doing a full 5-gallon (19 L) boil, use the hop quantities from the all-grain recipe. Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding the first hop addition at the beginning of the boil. With 10 minutes remaining in the boil, add the final hop addition.
Chill the wort to 73 °F (23 °C) and aerate it well. Pitch the yeast and fermentation should commence within 24–48 hours. Let the fermentation temperature rise up to about 79 °F (26 °C) over the course of the week and hold at a warmer temperature until fermentation is complete. After primary fermentation, let the beer condition for one to two weeks before you bottle or keg. Carbonate to 2.5-–3 volumes of CO2.
Tips for Success:
As mentioned on page 39, brewing with rye brings a risk of a mess in the mash tun. If you are worried about getting stuck, you can use rice hulls in the mash to be on the safe side. Between 1.5–3% of the total malt bill will work.
Be sure when you are fermenting this beer to control the temperature when you let the temperature naturally rise. Letting your temperature get very hot will promote the development of fusel alcohols and solvent-like characters that you don’t want. You also don’t want to go too high because cooling them down can cause the yeast to stop. In his story for Brew Your Own titled “Fermenting Belgian-Style Beers,” Stan Hieronymus explains that many commercial Belgian brewers allow their fermentation temperatures to go quite high, but this is because they can control the temperatures better than a homebrewer. Stan relays the advice of White Labs’ Chris White regarding trying to correct Belgian-style fermentations that are too hot: “When you cool them, they stop. They go into survival mode. You can try rousing them, raising the temperature, but they won’t start again. You just have to add a new yeast. You don’t want to let it spike, and that can be hard to control in a homebrew situation.”
