Take Me to Your Liter
When North Americans who have not traveled extensively in Germany think of Germans, most of them conjure up an image in their minds of people dressed in lederhosen. This, however, is about as misleading as thinking of North Americans only as Wall Street types from Manhattan or cowboys from Texas. In fact, as the title of a path-breaking 1981 book by Joel Garreau, The Nine Nations of North America, suggests the continent can be divided — in complete disregard of state boundaries — along regional, linguistic, ethnic, economic, sociological, and cultural lines into at least nine distinct nations, of which New England, Dixie, French-speaking Québec, and the “Breadbasket” (Prairies) are four examples.
The same is true of Germany, albeit on a much smaller swath of territory. Germany is only 137,983-square-miles in size, which makes it slightly smaller than Montana and slightly larger than New Mexico. In formal-legal and political terms, Germany is divided into 16 states, but contains within its borders at least four broadly defined and very distinct societies. These are the south, with Bavaria as its anchor, as well as the states of Baden-Württemberg and Saarland; the north, which borders the North and Baltic seas and is comprised of the five states of Lower Saxony, Schleswig-Holstein, Mecklenburg-Vorpommern, Hamburg, and Bremen; the west, made up of the two states of North-Rhine-Westphalia and Rhineland-Palatinate; and the east with the five states of Brandenburg, Berlin, Saxony, Saxony-Anhalt, and Thuringia. That leaves only the state of Hesse with Frankfurt, the financial capital of mainland Europe, at the center, with a culture all its own.
If one spends time traveling and talking to locals, just as in North America, a visitor will begin to see the distinct cultural differences that are deeply rooted in each of these regions. Just as the regions differ in the outlook of their people and the social mores that tie them together, they also differ in the beers that have evolved there and the beer cultures that envelope them. A beer-style tour around four centers in the four corners of Germany — with a focus on Bavaria, Thuringia, the port city of Hamburg, and the Rhineland — showcases this reality.
The South: Bavaria
Perhaps the most quintessential image of Germany that North Americans have in their mind’s eye is that of Bavaria (or Bayern, in German). While Munich is its lively cosmopolitan center, it is the south’s small towns and villages, scattered amidst a hilly and green countryside and dotted with castles that represent the romantic heart of the country. It is the largest in territory of Germany’s states and 85% rural.
Yet Bavaria, with its nearly 13 million inhabitants, is also one of Europe’s most competitive industrial regions, with such heavyweights as Audi, BMW, Siemens, and an array of other global companies there. But no matter how prosperous and modern Bavarians are, they keep their culture close to their heart. Michael Hinterdobler, Director of International Relations at the state chancellery, has been quoted as saying that both the traditional and the modern Bavaria is thriving: “There has been a renaissance. Young people go out with their iPod but also have a dirndl at home. It’s not a contradiction anymore.1”
There is truth in that statement. Catholic holiday traditions are sacrosanct, and many still don their “Trachten” (lederhosen and dirndl dresses) on special occasions. Also inviable is the centuries-old tradition of socializing over beer — enjoying light, easy-drinking brews in the hot summer months in the beer gardens and darker, maltier, often heavier brews in the dark and cozy recesses of the beer halls during the cold winter months — all the while conversing in a German dialect that is lilting and melodious, closer to that of Austria or the German portion of Switzerland than to the Hochdeutsch (high German) officially spoken in the country.
Bavarians are known to like to party, and everyone is invited. Even the now iconic Munich Oktoberfest began in 1810 as a public celebration of the marriage of Crown Prince Ludwig I of Bavaria to Princess Therese of Sachsen-Hildburghausen, on the Theresienwiese, a meadow in Munich now named after the bride, and which still serves as the official ground of the event. While there were no beers served at the first Oktoberfest, only four years later, the festivities featured an ample array of beer shacks dispensing lagers ranging from dark to deep amber in half-liter, tin-lidded steins. And since then, more and more beer has been served every year. The world now descends upon Munich every fall. In 2017 alone, 6.2 million guests from 75 countries took part in the celebrations and consumed 7.5 million liters (63,000 U.S. barrels) of beer in about two weeks!2
As malting technologies advanced and pneumatic kilning replaced smoky, direct-fired drying of malt, the brewers’ grist in Bavaria became gradually paler and paler, and also less smoky-phenolic, leading in 1841 to the introduction of what we now call the Märzen style of beer by the Spaten brewery. In 1872, Spaten introduced that beer for the first time at the Munich Oktoberfest, which is when it acquired its second name of Okotoberfestbier. Eventually, as maltsters were able to reliably make super pale malt, the Spaten brewery, in 1894, was able to treat its patrons to a brilliant straw-blonde new beer style that we now call the helles (this also required water adjustments, since Munich water is ideally suited to darker beers). These developments largely relegated the traditional Munich dunkel, which had been the default beer style of Bavarians for centuries, to just one of the many beers in the portfolios of Bavarian brewers. However, the dunkel is still one of the regional beer styles patrons come to expect in Bavaria.
Dunkel
An authentic dunkel (German for dark), just like an authentic helles, is very difficult to brew, but for a very different reason. While the helles is so delicate that brewers could not possibly hide a brewing mistake, a dunkel is a bit more robust. However, the requirements for color and flavor are antithetical. As a rule of thumb, a beer is considered dark (dunkel) when its color rating is 15 SRM or more (about 30 EBC or more). While brewers usually achieve darkness in beer through the addition of mildly to severely roasted malts or through roasted, unmalted grains (which are not permitted by the Reinheitsgebot, the German Beer Purity Law), in Bavarian dark lagers — and, to a lesser extent in Thuringian schwarzbiers — roastiness should remain in the background and burnt flavors should not be present at all. Instead, other malt aromas should be in the foreground.
The way to solve this dilemma is to rely on large portions of still enzyme-rich Munich malts with plenty of malt aromatics, next to some high-quality Pilsner malt as the mash base. Such a grist bill still has sufficient enzymatic strength to convert grain starches into sugars while also contributing to the required dark color. They may even give the brew a slightly reddish hue. A dunkel mash also benefits from some mild caramel malts, which deliver additional depth of color, a very intense malt aroma, notes of chewy biscuit, some residual sweetness, and greater head stability. For an extra color boost, a miniscule addition of roasted malts to the mash is an option. However, it is best if these are de-husked to minimize any acrid flavors. Indigenous Bavarian noble varieties such as Hallertau Mittelfrüh, Hersbrucker, or Spalt are, of course, the most authentic choices for bittering, flavor, and aroma. A clean-fermenting Bavarian lager yeast such as Fermentis W-34/70 is perfect.
In the old days, all German beers, not just in Bavaria, were decocted, while today most breweries use a step mash instead, which is fine for brewing dunkel.
Helles
The straw-blonde helles is one of the palest all-malt beers in the world rivaled perhaps only by the German Pils and Kölsch. In essence, a helles recipe is about as simple as it gets, but its brewing process is exact. If a brewer makes a mistake, there is no aspect of the brew behind which to hide a flaw. In a Helles, the drinker can taste all faults. This also means that the ingredients must be of the highest quality. In typical Bavarian fashion, it is slightly maltier than a Bohemian Pilsner, while its hop character is less noticeable upfront but has aromatic reverberations in a lingering finish. The alcohol content by volume is similar to that of the Bohemian Pilsner. It ranges from 4.5% to just over 5% ABV. Stronger versions are often referred to as export helles.
The East: Thuringia
Moving east to Thuringia is a bold contrast in culture and lifestyle to Bavaria. A former East German state and now one of the federal states of modern Germany, Thuringia has always been a major German cultural center, yet it was virtually unknown to North American travelers until after German reunification.
The list of cultural accomplishments and treasures in Thuringia is long and varied. Yet in stark contrast to these accomplishments, Thuringia suffered greatly through multiple wars and devastations — from the Thirty Years War through World War II. The effect can be characterized by an austere, Prussian-like way of life, which many people associate with the image of German society as disciplined, rational, and even militaristic.
It may be a stretch to suggest that the dark brews of Thuringia, as well as those of its neighboring states of Saxony, Saxony-Anhalt, Lower Saxony, and Brandenburg go with the somber aspect of the culture of the eastern regions of Germany. However, it is a fact that, historically, dark brews made with plenty of roasted malt have always been especially popular there. The schwarzbier evolved from a Lower-Saxon top-fermented dark ale style, the Mumme, created in the city of Braunschweig (Brunswick). This beer came in various strengths and was first mentioned in a document in 1390. The strongest version, called Segelschiffmumme (sailing ship Mumme), had great keeping qualities and was standard fare on board the merchant ketches of the Renaissance, while the normal-strength Stadtmumme (city Mumme) was consumed by the Brunswick locals.
As the beers of Germany (and of the rest of the world) became gradually paler because of a revolution in malting technologies, brewers in the eastern regions of the country, especially in Thuringia, bucked the national trend and continued to make their traditional dark beers — except that they started to use bottom-fermenting rather than top-fermenting yeasts. By the time the 20th century rolled around, Thuringian Schwarzbier-making was firmly centered in the city of Bad Köstritz, where this beer was first mentioned in a document in 1543. After the founding of East Germany in 1949, all breweries there were nationalized; and Köstritzer schwarzbier became an important export commodity for the communist authorities, especially to Hungary. Yet, in 1989, when the Iron Curtain came down, total production of Thuringian schwarzbier had dropped to only 10,000 bbl/year (12,000 hL/year). Today, however, it has rebounded to around 340,000 bbl/year (400,000 hL/year), which represents some 1.5% of the German beer market.
Schwarzbier
The color of schwarzbier is more opaque than that of a typical Bavarian dunkel. In appearance, it approximates an English porter, but without any sharp, acrid notes from highly kilned malts. This is why de-husked roasted malts are an ideal solution to darken the color. Such malts lack much of the phenolic astringency that is natural in other roasted malts and roasted raw grains. The recipe on at the end of this article features the very dark Carafa® III Special with 488 °L to 563 °L. It has surprisingly mild and smooth malt aromas in spite of its extreme color values. The base malt for this recipe is a mix of Pilsner and Munich malts, while a small optional addition of Carapils®/Carafoam® can give this brew some extra body. The hop bitterness and hop aromas should be kept subordinate to the malt character in a schwarzbier. Traditional German varieties, including Hersbrucker, Hallertau Mittelfrüh, Perle, Spalt, and Tettnanger, as well as their modern genetic descendants, all work well. A classic schwarzbier finishes dry and is highly effervescent with an attractive head of white foam.
The North: The Port City of Hamburg
Opposite from the land-locked Alpine region in the south of Germany lies the port city of Hamburg. Its culture and that of the region under its influence is still patterned largely by world-openness and the protestant-mercantile spirit of the erstwhile Hanseatic League, the foremost organized economic interest group of the Renaissance. The League almost completely dominated trade, business, politics, and military affairs in Northern Europe between roughly the 14th and the 17th centuries.
At the height of its power, the League controlled trade in 187 cities in 16 countries — from Iceland and England to Flanders and Russia.3 Merchants hatched their commercial strategies in groups called “Hanse” — hence the name Hanseatic League — and their ships called cogs crossed the North and Baltic Seas and the Atlantic, carrying valuable cargo, from pelts to wood to spices to metals to grain. And one of the most important trading commodities of the Hanseatic merchants was beer, mostly from Hamburg, but also from Bremen, Brunswick, Hannover, Zerbst, Gdansk, and Einbeck. Importantly, the brewers supplying the Hanseatic League were pioneers in the use of hops instead of gruit to extend their beers’ keeping qualities. Especially in Hamburg, beer was once big business. In fact, in a count from 1540, Hamburg boasted 527 breweries, while Munich at that time had only about 30, and half of Hamburg’s population was employed in the beer trade. Largely on the strength of its beer and its port, Hamburg became a wealthy cosmopolitan city and many residents became very, very rich.
Today Hamburg still has that cosmopolitan, commercial, and independent aura. The city of Hamburg is one of three federal city-states in Germany (the others being Berlin and Bremen), which means that it is both a city and a state. Today’s Hamburg is also a study in contrasts: The city has a bustling yet green city center, a skyline with a mix of ancient church spires and modern architecture, elegant villas and tree-lined walkways, innumerable beer bars, cafés and clubs, and an infamous red light district, the Reeperbahn, where sailors used to frolic between voyages.
The primary beer made and drunk today along the North and Baltic Seas’ Waterkant reflects the region’s no-nonsense, get-down-to-business mentality. That beer is the hop-bitter, easy-drinking German Pilsener, which is a more assertive adaptation of the smooth and aromatic Bohemian Pilsner. The first German Pils was brewed in 1872 by the Aktienbrauerei Zum Bierkeller (Shareholders’ Brewery at the Beer Cellar), not far from the Czech border, in Radeberg, near the Saxon capital of Dresden. This brewery was the modest forerunner of the present-day Radeberger Group, Germany’s largest brewing group.
German Pilsener
Today, Pils is Germany’s most popular beer style. It holds more than half the German beer market share. Incidentally — though not every brewery adheres to this convention — the original Bohemian brew from Pilsen tends to be spelled Pilsner, while the German-style brew is often spelled as Pilsener, or it is simply abbreviated as Pils.
A classic German Pils is mostly characterized by its straw-blond appearance and an assertive, up-front, noble-hop kick. A Pils is well-attenuated and thus very dry and refreshing in the finish. It has a spritzy effervescence and next to no fruity esters or diacetyl. In the glass, it sports a sturdy, long-lasting head. A typical Pils is almost always filtered. It is exceptionally effervescent, often with a carbonation level of 2.8 vol. (5.5 g/l) of CO2 or higher. On tap, a Pils requires patience to pour, because it develops a tall head of foam at an instant. This is why it usually takes at least two minutes to fill a glass of Pils — with several interruptions to let the foam settle.
The West: The Rhineland
The Rhinelanders are yet another German tribe. They live in the west of Germany, on either side of the mighty River Rhine, whose waters meander lazily through the country’s lowlands towards the Netherlands and eventually empty into the North Sea near Rotterdam. The Rhineland is adjacent to Westphalia slightly to the northeast, which is Germany’s former industrial heartland of coal mines and steel mills. Once the country’s version of America’s rustbelt, Westphalia is quickly becoming a high tech center. The Rhineland and Westphalia together form the modern Germany state of North-Rhine-Westphalia, with Düsseldorf, home of the altbier, as its center and capital. Other major cities of the state include Köln (Cologne), home of the Kölsch; Dortmund in Westphalia, home of the Dortmund export beer style; Münster in Westphalia, home of a Westphalian altbier, which may have up to 40 percent wheat malt in the mash; and Bonn, which was the West German capital before reunification. The Rhenish dialect is a soft version of Plattdeutsch, whose accent is reminiscent more of the Dutch and Flemish languages than of modern Hochdeutsch.
The two major beer cities on the banks of the Rhine, Düsseldorf and Cologne, are only 44 km (barely 27 miles) apart, and they most epitomize the Rhenish zest for life. They are also friendly competitors, in soccer, in culture, and in beer. That rivalry dates back all the way to the year 1288, when the Bishop of Cologne on one side, and the Duke of Düsseldorf allied with the Duke of Brabant on the other, fought the bloody Battle of Worringen, half way between the two cities. The fight was all about a beer tax, imposed by the Bishop of Cologne but opposed by the two dukes and, in total disloyalty to representative of the Holy See, by the Brewers Guild of Cologne! Well, the secular anti-tax forces won and, as a result, the bishopric of Cologne lost some of its clout, while the status of Düsseldorf was raised officially from a village to that of a chartered city. The Duke of Brabant incidentally was Jan Primus, also known as Gambrinus, whom many consider the Patron Saint of brewers. In his time, Gambrinus was not only a duke, but also the head of the Belgian Brewers Guild. While Düsseldorf has never lost its more urbane and secular orientation, Cologne, with its imposing more than 800-year-old Cathedral, has remained much more clerical in its outlook.
Düsseldorf is now one of the country’s wealthiest cities and a center of banking, advertising, fashion, and telecommunications. Yet for many, especially for beer lovers, the true spirit of Düsseldorf comes to life a few steps away from the hustle and bustle of modernity, in the Altstadt (old town), a historic quarter along the Rhine, where some buildings date from the 13th century. This roughly one-square-mile district is known to locals as the längste Theke der Welt (the longest bar in the world). It consists of a cluster of some 300 bars and nightclubs, all of which serve the local brew, the altbier (old beer), so named for the old, ale-style method of brewing.
The other regional Rhenish ale, the Kölsch of Cologne, is the altbier’s straw-blonde cousin. Both the altbier and the Kölsch have one brewing aspect in common that sets them apart from all other ales and lagers in the world: Though brewed like genuine top-fermented beers, they are fermented relatively cool and then lagered at low cellar temperatures, sometimes near the freezing point, like a classic lager. This is why some brewing experts refer to these Rhenish ales as hybrids. This is, of course, technically a misnomer because they are true ales. However, they do require specialty strains of Saccharomyces cerevisiae that are more cold-tolerant than, for instance, a London ale yeast. Altbier yeasts ferment well at a primary temperature between 54 –68 °F (12–20 °C), while Kölsch yeasts are very comfortable at a slightly higher temperature range of 56–70 °F (13–21 °C). A typical London ale yeast, by contrast, works best at a fermentation temperature of 60–72 °F (16–22 °C). These lower fermentation temperatures result in the reduction of fermentation byproducts such as fruity esters and higher alcohols, especially in the altbier.
Düsseldorf Altbier
As lager brewing conquered just about every beer market in the world in the 19th century, Düsseldorf brewers and their brethren in Cologne decided to buck the trend and stick with their ale-making ways. The copper-colored, slightly bittersweet altbier evolved in its current form around the middle of that century. On the palate, it is a delicate mixture of classic noble hop notes and fine, almost nutty malt aromas. Historically, it derives from an earlier regional ale, the keutebier, which is an old, often slightly sour style with barley and wheat. It had been brewed in some variation or another in the northwestern lowlands of continental Europe — from Westphalia, to the Rhineland, to Holland, to Belgium, to northern France — at least since the 14th century. Some altbier brewers (and some Kölsch brewers as well) sometimes still add just a bit of pale wheat malt — perhaps up to five percent of the grain bill — to their mashes for some extra creaminess.
The modern Düsselforfer altbier evolved in four of Düsseldorf’s traditional brewpubs, Im Füchschen, Ferdinand Schumacher, Zum Schlüssel, and Zum Uerige. In these hallowed establishments, altbier is still gravity-dispensed fresh from wooden casks, at a cellar temperature of roughly 40 to 45 °F (5 to 7 °C). The traditional altbier drinking vessel is a thin-walled, cylindrical glass that holds 0.2 liters (6.75 fl. oz.). The reason for the small size of the glass is that it can be emptied quickly before the beer has a chance to warm up or go flat. Some altbiers are made almost entirely with Munich malt. Roasted malts, if used at all, are mostly for the beer’s deep-copper color, not for its flavor. The original gravity of a typical altbier is rarely outside a range of 1.046 to 1.050 (11.5 to 12.5 °P). The bittering in an altbier must be noticeable but restrained; yet it can vary greatly between 25 and 45 IBUs. In days gone by, altbier was usually more strongly hopped than it tends to be today. Therefore, the classic recipe presented at the end of this article errs on the side of more rather than less hops. The finish is usually dry, with a lingering hop aroma. Some brewers insist exclusively on Spalt in two or three hop additions, while others employ combinations of Hallertau Mittelfrüh, Hersbrucker, Perle, Spalt, Strisselspalt, Tettnanger, Tradition, or Saaz for bittering, flavor, and aroma.
Kölsch
Kölsch too evolved from the keutebier. It was released in its current manifestation for the first time in bottles labeled “Kölsch” in 1918. Kölsch, just like altbier, is consumed out of thin-walled, cylindrical glasses that hold 0.2 (6.75 fl. oz.), but the diameter of the Kölsch glass is smaller than that of the altbier glass, which is why the taller Kölsch drinking vessel is also known as a “stange” (a rod).
The word Kölsch has several connotations in the German language. If used as a noun, it refers to the distinct Cologne dialect and accent. As an adjective, it means “anything from Cologne.” Thus, it is a local joke that Kölsch is the only language that you can also drink!
Today, the specifications of the Kölsch beer style are governed by the so-called Kölsch-Konvention (Cologne Convention) of 1985. It may be brewed only by breweries located in and around Cologne, and it has been accorded the status of a Protected Geographical Indication by the European Union, which is similar to an appellation d’origine contrôlée in wine.
Kölsch is brewed with a relatively simple grain bill of perhaps one-half Kölsch specialty malt — which has a malty-sweet flavor with gentle notes of honey — and one-half Pilsner malt. Some brewers even brew this beer just with Kölsch malt, while others add just a touch of pale wheat malt for extra creaminess, as well as a touch of Carapils®/Carafoam® for extra mouthfeel.
The preferred fermentation range of most Kölsch yeasts is about 56 °F to 70 °F (13 °C to 21 °C). Yet some commercial Kölsch breweries ferment this beer just a touch warmer to speed up fermentation. This is done at the risk of introducing small amounts of diacetyl or higher alcohols, which ideally ought not to be detectable in this style. The Kölsch maturation process, like that of the altbier, is identical to the lagering period of a German-style bottom-fermented beer, which is why, until the turn of the 20th century, Kölsch was often referred to in the brew-technical literature by the misnomer of Rhenish lagerbier.
Everything about this beer is delicate. It is always well attenuated, and the final gravity of some interpretations is even below 1.008 (2 °P) for a very dry finish. The body is very light, which makes this beer an excellent summer thirst quencher. The hops in Kölsch can be any German noble variety. Hallertau Mittelfrüh, Tettnanger, Perle, Spalt or Hersbrucker are all suitable. The IBU value is restrained, usually in the mid-20s. Hop aromas are noticeable but delicate. Kölsch, like altbier, should be fermented with its own specialty yeast. However, though considered a sacrilege by some, altbier yeasts also make good Kölsch ales and vice versa.
References
1 “How Bavaria Became A European Silicon Valley.” www.theguardian. com/world/2011/mar/15/bavaria-reinvents-itself-germany-silicon-valley
2 www.oktoberfest.de/en/article/Oktoberfest+2018/About+the+Oktoberfest/The+Oktoberfest+2017+roundup/5012/
3 www.hanse.org/en/
Regional German Beer Recipes
Munich Dunkel
Munich Dunkel(5 gallon/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.052 FG = 1.014
IBU = 20 SRM = 20 ABV = 5%
Authentic dunkels rely on Munich malts to provide color, without the roastiness or burnt flavors often associated with darker beers.
Ingredients
6 lbs. (2.7 kg) German Munich malt (6 °L)
3.3 lbs. (1.5 kg) continental Pilsner malt
17.6 oz. (500 g) Weyermann CaraMunich® I malt (35 °L)
14.1 oz. (400 g) Weyermann Special W® malt (114 °L)
2.5 oz. (70 g) Carafa® Special I (338 °L)
4.25 AAU Mittelfrüh hops (60 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 4.25% alpha acids)
2.1 AAU Mittelfrüh hops (15 min.) (0.5 oz./14 g at 4.25% alpha acids)
0.3 oz. (9 g) Mittelfrüh hops (0 min.)
Saflager W-34/70 or Wyeast 2124 (Bohemian Lager) or White Labs WLP830 (German Lager) yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
This recipe uses a multi-step infusion mash. Dough in at around 104 °F (40 °C) for a hydration rest of 15 minutes. Raise the temperature to 122 °F (50 °C) for a protein rest of 15 minutes. Raise the temperature to 149 °F (65 °C) for a beta amylase rest of 30 minutes. Raise the temperature to 162 °F (72 °C) for an alpha amylase rest of 30 minutes. Raise temperature to 169 °F (76 °C) for the mash-out. Recirculate wort then begin sparge.
Boil for 75 minutes, adding hops as indicated. At the end of the boil, turn off heat and whirlpool for 15 minutes. Heat-exchange to the high end of the temperature range for the selected yeast. As soon as primary fermentation is vigorous, reduce the tank temperature to the low end of the yeast’s temperature range. After 7 additional days, give the beer a diacetyl rest by raising the tank temperature to 66 °F (19 °C) and hold it there for about 2 days. Rack and reduce the beer temperature for lagering by 2 °F (1 °C ) a day until reaching 31 °F (–1 °C) or close to it, equipment permitting. Lager for
4 to 6 weeks. Some brewers may shorten the lagering time to 2 to 4 weeks, others will lengthen it to 12 weeks. Rack again. Carbonate to approximately 2.6 volumes of CO2.
Munich Dunkel
(5 gallon/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.052 FG = 1.014
IBU = 20 SRM = 20 ABV = 5%
Ingredients
3.3 lbs. (1.5 kg) Munich liquid malt extract
2 lbs. (0.91 kg) Pilsen dried malt extract
17.6 oz. (500 g) Weyermann CaraMunich® I malt (35 °L)
14.1 oz. (400 g) Weyermann Special W® malt (114 °L)
2.5 oz. (70 g) Carafa® Special I (338 °L)
4.25 AAU Mittelfrüh hops (60 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 4.25% alpha acids)
2.1 AAU Mittelfrüh hops (15 min.) (0.5 oz./14 g at 4.25% alpha acids)
0.3 oz. (9 g) Mittelfrüh hops (0 min.)
Saflager W-34/70 or Wyeast 2124 (Bohemian Lager) or White Labs WLP830 (German Lager) yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Start with 5 gallons (19 L) brewing water in your pot. Steep the crushed grains placed in a muslin bag as the water heats up to 170 °F (77 °C). Remove the grain bag, allowing the liquid to drip back into the pot. Remove from heat and stir in all the malt extract. Turn heat back on once all the extract is dissolved and bring wort to a boil for 60 minutes, adding hops as indicated. Follow the remainder of the all-grain recipe.
Munich Dunkel
(5 gallon/19 L, extract only)
OG = 1.052 FG = 1.014
IBU = 20 SRM = 20 ABV = 5%
This extract-only recipe utilizes Weyermann Munich Dunkel liquid malt extract, which can be sourced in 8.8-lb. (4-kg) canisters, but is not available in the USA. The extract with grains recipe will need to be utilized if this extract is not available to you.
Ingredients
7.25 lbs. (3.3 kg) Weyermann Munich Dunkel liquid malt extract
4.25 AAU Mittelfrüh hops (60 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 4.25% alpha acids)
2.1 AAU Mittelfrüh hops (15 min.) (0.5 oz./14 g at 4.25% alpha acids)
0.3 oz. (9 g) Mittelfrüh hops (0 min.)
Saflager W-34/70 or Wyeast 2124 (Bohemian Lager) or White Labs WLP830 (German Lager) yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Heat 5 gallons (19 L) of water to 180 °F (82 °C). Remove from heat and stir in malt extract. Return to heat and boil for 60 minutes, adding hops as indicated. Follow the remainder of the all-grain recipe.
Munich Helles
Munich Helles(5 gallon/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.047 FG = 1.011
IBU = 20 SRM = 4 ABV = 4.8%
The bittering hop selected here is the Mittelfrüh-like, daughter of Hallertau Gold, Tradition with a nominal average alpha acid rating of 5.5%. It has gentle fruity notes. However, any other German noble hops would work as well. The flavor and aroma hops are, fittingly, Mittelfrüh.
Ingredients
8.8 lbs. (4 kg) continental Pilsner malt
5.3 oz. (150 g) Weyermann Carahell® malt (10 °L)
5.3 oz. (150 g) Carapils®/Carafoam® malt
5.3 oz. (150 g) acidulated malt (2.25 °L)
5 AAU Tradition hops (60 min.) (0.9 oz./24 g at 5.5% alpha acids)
1.3 AAU Mittelfrüh hops (15 min.) (0.3 oz./9 g at 4.25% alpha acids)
0.9 AAU Mittelfrüh hops (5 min.) (0.2 oz./6 g at 4.25% alpha acids)
White Labs WLP860 (Munich Helles Lager) or Wyeast 2352 (Munich Lager II) or Mangrove Jack’s M76 (Bavarian Lager) yeast
7⁄8 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
This recipe uses a multi-step infusion mash. Dough in at around 104 °F (40 °C) for a hydration rest of 15 minutes. Raise the temperature to 122 °F (50 °C) for a protein rest of 15 minutes. Raise the temperature to 149 °F (65 °C) for a beta amylase rest of 30 minutes. Raise the temperature to 162 °F (72 °C) for an alpha amylase rest of 30 minutes. Raise temperature to 169 °F (76 °C) for the mash-out. Recirculate wort and then begin sparge.
Boil for 75 minutes, adding hops as indicated. At the end of the boil, turn off heat and whirlpool for 15 minutes.
Heat-exchange to the high end of the temperature range for the selected yeast. As soon as primary fermentation is vigorous, reduce the tank temperature to the low end of the yeast’s temperature range. After 7 additional days, give the beer a diacetyl rest by raising the tank temperature to 66 °F (19 °C) and hold it there for about 2 days.
Rack and reduce the beer temperature for lagering by 2 °F (1 °C) a day until reaching 31 °F (–1 °C) or close to it, equipment permitting. The lagering temperature should definitely not be higher than 38 °F (3.5 °C). Lager for 4 to 6 weeks. Some brewers may shorten the lagering time to 2 to 4 weeks, others will lengthen it to 12 weeks. Rack again. Carbonate to approximately 2.75 volumes of CO2.
Munich Helles
(5 gallon/19 L, extract only)
OG = 1.047 FG = 1.011
IBU = 20 SRM = 5 ABV = 4.8%
Ingredients
6.6 lbs. (3 kg) Bavarian Pilsner liquid malt extract
1 tsp. 88% lactic acid
5 AAU Tradition hops (60 min.) (0.9 oz./24 g at 5.5% alpha acids)
1.3 AAU Mittelfrüh hops (15 min.) (0.3 oz./9 g at 4.25% alpha acids)
0.9 AAU Mittelfrüh hops (5 min.) (0.2 oz./6 g at 4.25% alpha acids)
White Labs WLP860 (Munich Helles Lager) or Wyeast 2352 (Munich Lager II) or Mangrove Jack’s M76 (Bavarian Lager) yeast
7⁄8 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Start with 5 gallons (19 L) brewing water in your pot. When water reaches 180 °F (82 °C) remove from heat and stir in the malt extract. Turn heat back on once all the extract is dissolved and bring wort to a boil. Boil for 60 minutes, adding hops as indicated. At the end of the boil, turn off heat and whirlpool for 15 minutes.
Heat-exchange to the high end of the temperature range for the selected yeast and top off fermenter to 5 gallons (19 L). As soon as primary fermentation is vigorous, reduce the tank temperature to the low end of the yeast’s temperature range. After 7 additional days, give the beer a diacetyl rest by raising the tank temperature to 66 °F (19 °C) and hold it there for about 2 days.
Rack and reduce the beer temperature for lagering by 2 °F (1 °C ) a day until reaching 31 °F (–1 °C) or close to it, equipment permitting. The lagering temperature should definitely not be higher than 38 °F (3.5 °C). Lager for 4 to 6 weeks. Some brewers may shorten the lagering time to 2 to 4 weeks, others will lengthen it to 12 weeks. Carbonate to approximately 2.75 volumes of CO2.
Thuringian Schwarzbier
(5 gallon/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.046 FG = 1.010
IBU = 26 SRM = 22 ABV = 4.8%
De-husked roasted malts like Carafa® III are an ideal solution to darken the color of schwarzbiers as they don’t have any sharp acrid notes as highly kilned malts do. This makes a surprisingly smooth dark lager.
Ingredients
5 lbs. (2.27 kg) German Pilsner malt
4 lbs. (1.8 kg) German Munich II malt (9 °L)
6 oz. (170 g) Weyermann Carafa® III Special malt (525°L)
5 oz. (140 g) Carapils®/Carafoam® malt
6.5 AAU Herkules hops (60 min.) (0.45 oz./13 g at 14.5% alpha acids)
0.7 AAU Perle hops (15 min.) (0.1 oz./2 g at 6.5% alpha acids)
0.5 AAU Saaz hops (5 min.) (0.1 oz./2 g at 4.5% alpha acids)
Lallemand Diamond Lager or Wyeast 2487 (Hella Bock Lager) or White Labs WLP833 (German Bock Lager) yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
This recipe uses a multi-step infusion mash. Dough in at around 104 °F (40 °C) for a hydration rest of 15 minutes. Raise the temperature to 122 °F (50 °C) for a protein rest of 15 minutes. Raise the temperature to 149 °F (65 °C) for a beta amylase rest of 30 minutes. Raise the temperature to 162 °F (72 °C) for an alpha amylase rest of 30 minutes. Raise temperature to 169 °F (76 °C) for the mash-out. Recirculate wort then begin sparge.
Boil for 75 minutes, adding hops as indicated. At the end of the boil, turn off heat and whirlpool for 15 minutes. Heat-exchange to the high end of the temperature range for the selected yeast. As soon as primary fermentation is vigorous, reduce the tank temperature to the low end of the yeast’s temperature range. After 7 additional days, give the beer a diacetyl rest by raising the tank temperature to 66 °F (19 °C) and hold it there for about 2 days. Rack and reduce the beer temperature for lagering by 2 °F (1 °C ) a day until reaching 31 °F (–1 °C) or close to it, equipment permitting. The lagering temperature should definitely not be higher than 38 °F (3.5 °C). Lager for 4 to 6 weeks. Some brewers may shorten the lagering time to 2 to 4 weeks, others will lengthen it to 12 weeks. Rack again. Carbonate to approximately 2.3 volumes of CO2.
Thuringian Schwarzbier
(5 gallon/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.046 FG = 1.010
IBU = 26 SRM = 22 ABV = 4.8%
Ingredients
2.2 lbs. (1 kg) Pilsen dried malt extract
3.3 lbs. (1.5 kg) Munich liquid malt extract
6 oz. (170 g) Weyermann Carafa® III Special malt (525°L)
5 oz. (140 g) Carapils®/Carafoam® malt
6.5 AAU Herkules hops (60 min.) (0.45 oz./13 g at 14.5% alpha acids)
0.7 AAU Perle hops (15 min.) (0.1 oz./2 g at 6.5% alpha acids)
0.5 AAU Saaz hops (5 min.) (0.1 oz./2 g at 4.5% alpha acids)
Lallemand Diamond Lager or Wyeast 2487 (Hella Bock Lager) or White Labs WLP833 (German Bock Lager) yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Start with 5 gallons (19 L) brewing water in your pot. Steep the crushed grains placed in a muslin bag as the water heats up to 170 °F (77 °C).
Remove the grain bag, allowing the liquid to drip back into the pot. Remove from heat and stir in all the malt extract. Turn heat back on once all the extract is dissolved and bring wort to a boil.
Boil for 60 minutes, adding hops as indicated. At the end of the boil, turn off heat and whirlpool for 15 minutes. Heat-exchange to the high end of the temperature range for the selected yeast and top off fermenter to 5 gallons (19 L). As soon as primary fermentation is vigorous, reduce the tank temperature to the low end of the yeast’s temperature range. After 7 additional days, give the beer a diacetyl rest by raising the tank temperature to 66 °F (19 °C) and hold it there for about 2 days. Rack and reduce the beer temperature for lagering by 2 °F (1 °C ) a day until reaching 31 °F (–1 °C) or close to it, equipment permitting. The lagering temperature should definitely not be higher than 38 °F (3.5 °C). Lager for 4 to 6 weeks. Some brewers may shorten the lagering time to 2 to 4 weeks, others will lengthen it to 12 weeks. Rack again. Carbonate to approximately 2.3 volumes of CO2.
Pils
(5 gallon/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.048 FG = 1.011
IBU = 45 SRM = 3.4 ABV = 4.9%
This beer is hearty but very drinkable. It is hop-spicy upfront, with a solid mouthfeel and a crisp finish. Many German breweries nowadays make a Pils with much less hop character and a lower gravity than specified here, but this recipe is closer to the original guidelines for making this beer as it might have been brewed in the 19th century.
Ingredients
8.8 lbs. (4 kg) Pilsner malt
15.5 oz. (440 g) Carapils®/Carafoam® malt
6 AAU Tettnanger hops (60 min.) (1.5 oz./43 g at 4% alpha acids)
5.2 AAU Spalt hops (30 min.) (1.3 oz./36 g at 4% alpha acids)
2.6 AAU Mittelfrüh hops (5 min.) (0.6 oz./18 g at 4.25% alpha acids)
Wyeast 2247 (European Lager) or White Labs WLP830 (German Lager) or Saflager S-189 yeast
7⁄8 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
This recipe uses a multi-step infusion mash. Dough in at around 104 °F (40 °C) for a hydration rest of 15 minutes. Raise the temperature to 122 °F (50 °C) for a protein rest of 15 minutes. Raise the temperature to 149 °F (65 °C) for a beta amylase rest of 30 minutes. Raise the temperature to 162 °F (72 °C) for an alpha amylase rest of 30 minutes. Raise temperature to 169 °F (76 °C) for the mash-out. Recirculate wort then begin sparge.
Boil for 75 minutes, adding hops as indicated. At the end of the boil, turn off heat and whirlpool for 15 minutes. Heat-exchange to the high end of the temperature range for the selected yeast. As soon as primary fermentation is vigorous, reduce the tank temperature to the low end of the yeast’s temperature range. After 7 additional days, give the beer a diacetyl rest by raising the tank temperature to 66 °F (19 °C) and hold it there for about 2 days. Rack and reduce the beer temperature for lagering by 2 °F (1 °C ) a day until reaching 31 °F (–1 °C) or close to it, equipment permitting. The lagering temperature should definitely not be higher than 38 °F (3.5 °C). Lager for 4 to 6 weeks. Some brewers may shorten the lagering time to 2 to 4 weeks, others will lengthen it to 12 weeks. Rack again. Carbonate to 2.75 volumes of CO2.
Pils
(5 gallon/19 L, extract only)
OG = 1.048 FG = 1.011
IBU = 45 SRM = 3.4 ABV = 4.9%
Ingredients
6.6 lbs. (3 kg) Bavarian Pilsner liquid malt extract
6 AAU Tettnanger hops (60 min.) (1.5 oz./43 g at 4% alpha acids)
5.2 AAU Spalt hops (30 min.) (1.3 oz./36 g at 4% alpha acids)
2.6 AAU Mittelfrüh hops (5 min.) (0.6 oz./18 g at 4.25% alpha acids)
Wyeast 2247 (European Lager) or White Labs WLP830 (German Lager) or Saflager S-189 yeast
7⁄8 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Start with 5 gallons (19 L) brewing water in your pot. When water reaches 180 °F (82 °C) remove from heat and stir in the malt extract. Turn heat back on once all the extract is dissolved and bring wort to a boil. Boil for 60 minutes, adding hops as indicated. At the end of the boil, turn off heat and whirlpool for 15 minutes. Heat-exchange to the high end of the temperature range for the selected yeast and top off fermenter to 5 gallons (19 L). As soon as primary fermentation is vigorous, reduce the tank temperature to the low end of the yeast’s temperature range. After 7 additional days, give the beer a diacetyl rest by raising the tank temperature to 66 °F (19 °C) and hold it there for about 2 days. Rack and reduce the beer temperature for lagering by 2 °F (1 °C ) a day until reaching 31 °F (–1 °C) or close to it, equipment permitting. The lagering temperature should definitely not be higher than 38 °F (3.5 °C). Lager for 4 to 6 weeks. Some brewers may shorten the lagering time to 2 to 4 weeks, others will lengthen it to 12 weeks. Carbonate to approximately 2.75 volumes of CO2.
Tips for Success:
You can add the final hop addition with 5 minutes remaining in the boil, as suggested, or at flameout and whirlpool, or as a dry hop addition near the end of primary fermentation, depending on the character you are searching for. Brewers who prefer a very aromatic beer can even add the specified amount of aroma hops at more than one of these stages, or even all of them.
Altbier
(5 gallon/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.047 FG = 1.011
IBU = 40 SRM = 15 ABV = 4.7%
The grain bill of the classic copper-colored altbier — which is internationally also known as a German Brown Ale — is almost Munich-like, but with a slightly less “caramelly” character than a Märzen, and less dark than a dunkel. It differs from a Munich brew, however, in its much more pronounced hoppiness. This creates a wonderful blend of malt-and-hop aromas in the finish, which is often described as bitter-sweet. The uniqueness of this beer — an ale after all — comes from the clean fermentation of a relatively cold-tolerant, top-fermenting specialty yeast.
Ingredients
5.5 lbs. (2.5 kg) German Munich I malt
2.33 lbs. (1.05 kg) continental Pilsner malt
2 lbs. (900 g) Weyermann Carared® malt (17 °L)
3.2 oz. (90 g) Weyermann Carafa® Special I malt (338 °L)
7.6 AAU Spalt hops (60 min.) (1.9 oz./53 g at 4% alpha acids)
4.4 AAU Spalt hops (10 min.) (1.1 oz./32 g at 4% alpha acids)
Wyeast 1007 (German Ale) or White Labs WLP036 (Düsseldorf Alt) or Safale K-97 yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
This is a multi-step mash. Crush grains and mash in at 122 °F (50 °C). Rest 15 min. Raise the temperature to 147 °F (64 °C) and rest 15 minutes. Raise the temperature to 162 °F (72 °C) and rest 15 minutes. Raise the temperature for the mash-out to 171 °F (77 °C). Recirculate, then begin sparge.
Boil for 75 minutes, adding hops as indicated. Turn off heat and whirlpool 15 minutes. Heat-exchange to the mid-range of the temperature tolerance of the selected yeast strain. This range is often between 54 °F and 68 °F (12 °C and 20 °C). Ferment for about 7 days. At a gravity of roughly 1.014 to 1.017, raise the tank temperature for a 2-day diacetyl rest to approximately 66 °F (19 °C).
For a secondary fermentation, lower the temperature again to the yeast’s mid-range. After 5 additional days, purge the sedimented yeast and debris. Transfer the brew to a capped conditioning tank. Lager for 3 weeks at about 36 °F to 25 °F (2 °C to -4 °C). Adjust the carbonation to approximately 2.2 to 2.6 volumes of CO2. Package filtered or unfiltered.
Altbier
(5 gallon/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.047 FG = 1.011
IBU = 40 SRM = 15 ABV = 4.7%
Ingredients
3.3 lbs. (1.5 kg) Munich liquid malt extract
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) Pilsen dried malt extract
2 lbs. (0.9 kg) Weyermann Carared® malt (17 °L)
3.2 oz. (90 g) Weyermann Carafa® Special I malt (338 °L)
7.6 AAU Spalt hops (60 min.) (1.9 oz./53 g at 4% alpha acids)
4.4 AAU Spalt hops (10 min.) (1.1 oz./32 g at 4% alpha acids)
Wyeast 1007 (German Ale) or White Labs WLP036 (Düsseldorf Alt) or Safale K-97 yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Start with 5 gallons (19 L) brewing water in your pot. Steep the crushed grains placed in a muslin bag as the water heats up to 170 °F (77 °C).
Remove the grain bag, allowing the liquid to drip back into the pot. Remove from heat and stir in all the malt extract. Turn heat back on once all the extract is dissolved and bring wort to a boil. Boil for 60 minutes, adding hops as indicated.
At the end of the boil, turn off heat and whirlpool for 15 minutes. Heat-exchange to the mid-range of the temperature tolerance of the selected yeast strain. This range is often between 54 °F and 68 °F (12 °C and 20 °C). Ferment for about 7 days. At a gravity of roughly 1.014 to 1.017, raise the tank temperature for a 2-day diacetyl rest to approximately 66 °F (19 °C).
For a secondary fermentation, lower the temperature again to the yeast’s mid-range. After 5 additional days, purge the sedimented yeast and debris. Transfer the brew to a capped conditioning tank. Lager for 3 weeks at about 36 °F to 25 °F (2 °C to -4 °C). Adjust the carbonation to approximately 2.2 to 2.6 volumes of CO2. Package filtered or unfiltered.
Kölsch
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.045 FG = 1.008
IBU= 26 SRM = 5 ABV = 4.9%
Ingredients
4.4 lbs. (2 kg) Kölsch malt (3.5–4.5 °L)
4.1 lbs. (1.86 kg) Pilsner malt
7.2 oz. (200 g) pale wheat malt
3.2 oz. (90 g) Carapils®/Carafoam® malt
4.4 AAU Tettnanger hops (60 min.) (1.1 oz./31 g at 4% alpha acids)
4.4 AAU Tettnanger hops (10 min.) (1.1 oz./31 g at 4% alpha acids)
Wyeast 2565 (Kölsch) or White Labs WLP036 (Düsseldorf Alt) or Safale K-97 yeast
7⁄8 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
This recipe uses a multi-step infusion mash. Dough in at around 104 °F (40 °C) for a hydration rest of 15 minutes. Raise the temperature to 122 °F (50 °C) for a protein rest of 15 minutes. Raise the temperature to 149 °F (65 °C) for a beta amylase rest of 30 minutes. Raise the temperature to 162 °F (72 °C) for an alpha amylase rest of 30 minutes. Raise temperature to 169 °F (76 °C) for the mash-out. Recirculate wort then begin sparge.
Boil for 75 minutes, adding hops as indicated. At the end of the boil, turn off heat and whirlpool for 15 minutes. Heat-exchange to the high end of the temperature range for the selected yeast. As soon as primary fermentation is vigorous, reduce the tank temperature to the low end of the yeast’s temperature range. After 7 additional days, give the beer a diacetyl rest by raising the tank temperature to 66 °F (19 °C) and hold it there for about 2 days.
Rack and reduce the beer temperature for lagering by 2 °F (1 °C ) a day until reaching 31 °F (–1 °C) or close to it, equipment permitting. The lagering temperature should definitely not be higher than 38 °F (3.5 °C). Lager for 4 to 6 weeks. Some brewers may shorten the lagering time to 2 to 4 weeks, others will lengthen it to 12 weeks. Rack again. Carbonate to 2.55 to 3 volumes of CO2.
Kölsch
(5 gallons/19 L, partial mash)
OG = 1.045 FG = 1.008
IBU= 26 SRM = 5 ABV = 4.9%
Ingredients
3.5 lbs. (1.6 kg) Pilsen dried malt extract
2.2 lbs. (1 kg) Kölsch malt (3.5-4.5 °L)
7.2 oz. (200 g) pale wheat malt
3.2 oz. (90 g) Carapils®/Carafoam® malt
4.4 AAU Tettnanger hops (60 min.) (1.1 oz./31 g at 4% alpha acids)
4.4 AAU Tettnanger hops (10 min.) (1.1 oz./31 g at 4% alpha acids)
Wyeast 2565 (Kölsch) or White Labs WLP036 (Düsseldorf Alt) or Safale K-97 yeast
7⁄8 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Place the crushed grains in a large muslin bag and submerge in 4 qts. (3.8 L) of water at 164 °F (73 °C) to settle the mash at 152 °F (67 °C). Hold for 60 minutes. Then place the grain bag in a large colander and wash with 4 qts. (3.8 L) of hot water. Top off kettle to 5 gallons (19 L) and stir in the dried malt extract. Bring wort to a boil.
Boil for 60 minutes, adding hops as indicated. At the end of the boil, turn off heat and whirlpool for 15 minutes. Heat-exchange to the high end of the temperature range for the selected yeast. As soon as primary fermentation is vigorous, reduce the tank temperature to the low end of the yeast’s temperature range. After 7 additional days, give the beer a diacetyl rest by raising the tank temperature to 66 °F (19 °C) and hold it there for about 2 days.
Rack and reduce the beer temperature for lagering by 2 °F (1 °C ) a day until reaching 31 °F (–1 °C) or close to it, equipment permitting. The lagering temperature should definitely not be higher than 38 °F (3.5 °C). Lager for 4 to 6 weeks. Some brewers may shorten the lagering time to 2 to 4 weeks, others will lengthen it to 12 weeks. Rack again. Carbonate to 2.55 to 3 volumes of CO2.
