Great Scot!

Any homebrewer worth his wort dreams of touring a major European brewery. What an adventure it would be! He’s probably read about the historic breweries of Europe and has tried to emulate their classic styles at home. Actually traveling to a foreign land for the sole purpose of brewery touring and pub crawling sounds like a dream. Well, I have good news: Sometimes dreams do come true.

I’m the owner of a homebrew shop in Willimantic, Connecticut. Last year I spoke to a local businessman — who also happens to be a devout Scotsman — about organizing a short trip to Edinburgh. After traveling there on numerous occasions, he had firsthand knowledge of the city and its neighborhood pubs. He wanted to share his experiences with friends on a return trip. As luck would have it, he’d heard of an affordable package that included airfare and accommodations on the Royal Mile, an Edinburgh thoroughfare rich in breweries, pubs and brewing history. Between my homebrew club companions (I belong to the Hop River Brewers in Andover) and his Scotch whiskey connoisseurs, we recruited enough people to make the trip.

The “Iceman,” as this fellow is locally known (he’s the proprietor of an icehouse), is launching a new brewery in East Hartford. His business plan calls for producing a light Scottish ale as the first public offering, with other styles to follow. By touring the breweries of Edinburgh and sampling their beers at the pubs, the Iceman and his head brewer hoped to learn about Scottish beers and modern brewing techniques. I had a similar goal: to sample as many beers as possible and pick up tips on brewing them at home.

From monks to modern times

To fully appreciate these age-old beers, it helps to know a bit about Scottish brewing history and beer styles. So I grabbed my copy of “Scotch Ale,” a well-researched book by Greg Noonan (Brewers Publications, 1993). I tucked this reference in my bag before leaving for Edinburgh. It turned out to be a terrific tour guide.

Archaeological evidence proves that the Picts were making some sort of fermented beverage on the Isle of Rhum as early as 6500 BC. By the time the Romans invaded Britain in 43 AD, the Picts were brewing their beer with barley grains. They also used heather, an indigenous flower, to flavor and preserve the brew. It must have been powerful stuff, because in the late fourth century, an Irish king named Niall of the Nine Hostages waged war against the Picts — not only to conquer the fierce tribe but to learn the secret of the legendary heather ale that Pictish warriors drank before battle. According to Noonan’s book, Niall wiped out the Pict population of Galloway but left without the recipe, which even the last victim refused to reveal.

In medieval times, the monasteries around Glasgow and Edinburgh became the first “commercial” breweries in Scotland. This region was nicknamed the “Charmed Circle” for its abundant underground springs. The soft water was perfect for producing the rich and malty ales that beer-lovers identify with Scotland to this day.

Secular breweries first appeared in the 1400s. Barley was grown and malted in the countryside — in such fertile agricultural regions as the Carse of Forth and East Lothian — and then shipped to breweries in Edinburgh, Glasgow and Alloa. All three cities were blessed with cool cellars of constant temperatures, abundant soft water supplies and close proximity to a deep-water port. For those reasons, these cities became — and still remain — the country’s major brewing centers.

In the early 1600s, the importation of English ales into Scotland was forbidden. The goal of the English-beer ban was to protect and encourage the Scottish brewing industry, and it worked. In the late 1700s, there were 150 public breweries in Scotland; by 1820, there were 240. True to Scottish brewing tradition and available ingredients, most of these breweries produced a range of malty, low-hopped ales. Over time, these Scottish ales gained popularity not only at home but across Europe, where they competed with the pale ales, bitters, stouts and porters of England. By the late 1800s — thanks to the Industrial Revolution and a boom in the export market — the modern-day Scottish brewing industry was firmly established.

Styles and shillings

Now a note on nomenclature: Though all are malty with a low hopping rate, there is a difference between “Scotch” ale and “Scottish” ales. Strong Scotch ale, also nicknamed a “wee heavy,” has an OG that ranges from 1.072 to 1.088+. Any beer with an OG lower than that is a “Scottish” ale. (Throughout this story, I rely on the official style guidelines published by the Beer Judge Certification Program.)

Designations of strength are called “shillings,” an historic tradition that referred to the tax rate. The beer with the least amount of alcohol was designated with the lowest shilling number, which meant it would be taxed at a lower rate and be cheaper for the patrons in the local pub. You’ll sometimes see shillings denoted by a symbol that looks like this: /-.

The “smallest” Scottish ale is the 60-shilling (or 60/-). This brew is often described as a “session” beer, which means you can drink a few pints before feeling the alcohol. This light Scottish ale should have an original gravity between 1.030 to 1.034, a final gravity of 1.010 to 1.013, an SRM of 12 to 34 and a hop bitterness rate from 9 to 15 IBUs. The alcohol by volume ranges from 2.5 to 3.3 percent. In other words, the 60-shilling is an easy-to-drink, low malt, low-hopped brown ale. They are subdued, but a pleasure to drink on cask. Popular commercial examples of this style include Belhaven 60/-, Caledonian 60/- and Maclay 60/-.

Following the 60s, of course, are the 70s and 80s. These three styles are the most common beers in Scotland, though I did see a 90-shilling at one pub. The AHA guidelines for Scottish 70 state that the style should have an original gravity between 1.034 to 1.040, a final gravity of 1.011 to 1.015, a color range of 10 to 19 SRM (it can be a little lighter in color than the 60) and hop bitterness from 20 to 25 IBUs. The alcohol content ranges from 3.2 to 3.9 percent. The 70 shillings are a bit more malty, with a slightly higher alcohol level. Commercial examples of this style include Belhaven 70/-, McEwans 70/- and Maclay 70/-. When I was in Edinburgh, the most common Scottish ales in the pubs were the 70-shillings.

As expected, the 80-shilling is higher in alcohol, maltier and hoppier than the 70. The AHA guidelines call for an original gravity of 1.040 to 1.050, a final gravity of 1.013 to 1.017, a color range of 10-19 SRM and hop bitterness from 15 to 36 IBU. The alcohol content ranges from 3.9 to 4.9 percent by volume.

The big boy of Scottish ales is inarguably the strong Scotch ale or wee heavy. I love this style for its over-the-top, extremely malty, caramel and alcoholic flavors. A strong Scotch ale should have an original gravity of 1.072 to 1.088+, a final gravity of 1.019 to 1.025+ (it has lots of residual sweetness), a color range from 10 to 47 SRM and a bitterness from 20 to 40 IBUs. The alcohol can range from 6.9 to 8.5 percent. This beer packs a wallop of flavor and alcohol. Commercial examples include Traquair House, McEwan’s Scotch ale and Belhaven Scotch ale. There also are some fine American examples, most notably the strong Scotch ale brewed by Noonan at his Vermont Pub and Brewery. I’ve had the pleasure of enjoying a pint with Greg at his Burlington pub and found it the equal of any wee heavy in Scotland.

Wanderings of a homebrewer

I am very interested in present-day Scottish ales and wondered if the traditional malty, full-bodied ales had lost their character through the ages. Upon arrival in Edinburgh, my goal was to sample as many different Scottish ales as I could. Thankfully, the shilling ales in Scotland have a lower alcohol content than our American versions. I was able to drink a few pints and still walk out under my own power.

The first stop of our adventure was the Belhaven Brewery, located in the picturesque seaside village of Dunbar. Belhaven has been brewing at this site since at least 1719, though there was brewing conducted on the premises at a much earlier date. Dunbar is a lovely, small town about 35 miles northeast of Edinburgh on the Scottish coastline. We were greeted by the chief brewer, George Howell.

Besides Noonan’s book, I’d packed some beer in my bag — a few bottles of my 80-shilling ale and some commercial examples of American-style Scottish ales. Transporting 15 bottles of beer was a major task, but I was on a mission: At each of the breweries we visited, I hoped the head brewer would join us in a comparative tasting.

The Scottish ales of the 1800s were markedly different from the ones that are brewed today. The final gravity of these ales has dropped considerably from their heyday of the mid 1800s, effectively changing their flavor profile. The 90-shilling ale of the 1800s, for example, had a final gravity of 1.055, while a modern-day 90-shilling has an FG of 1.020. As a result, the flavor is a bit more subdued. The modern American versions of the same Scottish ales, by contrast, are brewed with a higher alcohol content and tend to finish maltier. They are more filling than the session beers that are common in the Scottish pubs.

The Scots tend to prefer a lighter ale. Most beers are cask conditioned or nitrogen forced, and are served at a warmer temperature (approximately 55° F). They are classic “session” beers and tend to be much less filling, with a lower malt profile. Though I tasted many beers, I did not come across the extremely rich and malty “wee heavy” I often drink in America.

The Belhaven “Wee Heavy” was my favorite beer from this brewery, with a rich and malty, but not overly sweet, flavor. The hops were just subtle enough to balance out the rich malts. There is a thick, creamy head that is simply delicious. This Wee Heavy was the most alcoholic and malty of their brews, with an original gravity of 1.060. Belhaven styles also include a Fuggles dry-hopped St. Andrew’s Ale (OG 1.046), their flagship Scottish Ale (OG 1.041), a McCallam’s Stout and a very refreshing Scottish Lager. Howell recommended that we sample these same brews in one of the local “tied pubs” in Edinburgh. (A “tied” pub is one that serves only the beers of a single brewery.) Heeding his good advice, our next destination was “The World’s End Pub” on High Street on the Royal Mile in Edinburgh.

It was a typical Scottish pub, adorned with colorful ale advertising mirrors, framed posters and other beer paraphernalia. The locals would gather here after a tough day at the office, just like back home in the States. The Belhaven beers served here were either on nitrogen tap or cask, and as you would expect, as fresh as possible. There was also a fine selection of single malt whiskies. After we sampled a few Belhavens, we were anxious to compare them with our next two brewery stops: Caledonian and Scottish & Newcastle.

Bright Monday morning, our thirsty group of ten descended onto the Caledonian Brewery in downtown Edinburgh. Ron Davies, our tour director and a savvy beer connossieur, led us on a thorough “grain to glass” tour through this immense brewery.

Caledonian is a 160-barrel brewery that uses open fermentation and three yeast strains (two ales and a lager). It has three “coppers” (boiling kettles) in the brew house, the oldest of which was installed in 1869. Caledonian has a fine range of cask ales, including the 80 shilling; a unique Golden Promise that uses organic Kentish hops and malted barley from the Scottish borders; and the extremely popular and drinkable Deuchars India Pale Ale. The IPAs in Scotland are predominately cask conditioned, and served at a much higher temperature that Americans are accustomed to. The original gravities are lower than their American counterparts, with a more subdued hop bitterness and flavor. These creamy cask ales are meant to be drunk with friends and family in the small neighborhood pubs. The alcohol by volume is typically 4 to 5 percent, though Caledonian’s Edinburgh Strong weighs in at 6.4 percent. The brewery also produces at least a dozen seasonal ales, one for each month of the year.

After sharing many of the fine Caledonian brews with Mr. Davies and my brew pals, we were off on a four-block walk to the famous Scottish & Newcastle Brewery. We were greeted at the adjoining pub by Nick Silk, the chief brewer and head of production. Scottish & Newcastle had recently opened this modern American-style brewpub, complete with a five-barrel brew system. After sharing lunch and some of this pub’s fine ales, we headed to the big brewery.

Scottish & Newcastle is a sprawling mega-brewery in the heart of Edinburgh. The complex consists of numerous buildings situated on three city-sized blocks. Massive pipelines containing wort, beer and brewing water are piped under the public roadways between the buildings.

Our tour started on the eighth floor where the crushed grain is transported. From this point on, gravity is a key factor in the brewing process. The crushed grain is dropped into large mash tuns below. After the mash, the grain is then dropped into lauter tuns. The use of separate lauter tuns is common in Scottish brewing practices, a bit different from the common American three-vessel system. After lautering, there is another gravity drop to the kettle. Brewers can view large-screen displays to monitor and modify every step of the process. Computerized graphs show mash temperatures, concentrations and many other parameters.

Tasting notes from the trip

As mentioned earlier, I brought along four commercial American versions of Scottish ales and my own Scottish 80. The commercial beers included one from California, one from Colorado and two from Connecticut. (I don’t want to name names, since the tastings and opinions were unofficial.) All four of the commercial examples and my homebrew were rated good in flavor by the pro brewers. There were similar flavors of treacle (molasses) in the beers from Connecticut and California. They noted fruity characteristics (raspberry) in one of the Connecticut beers and found the Colorado ale a bit cloying. They picked up on the slight licorice and treacle flavor in my homebrew.

In general, the tasting panel found the American beers more fruity and malty than their own ales, with a fuller body. These characteristics are similar to American versions of other foreign styles: American IPAs and barleywines tend to be much maltier and hoppier than their English counterparts, just as our American brown ales are more assertive in bitterness than their European matches.

Neighborhood pubs are the real-life laboratories for the breweries we visited. They abound on every street corner, and we found them friendly and inviting. Caledonian, Belhaven and Scottish & Newcastle beers were the predominant brands. All of these fine ales were either on cask or nitrogenated, and a few bottled versions also were available. S&N offered a new style called SPA (Sparkling Pale Ale). This was a very refreshing, light-bodied and highly effervescent pale ale. I also liked a mild porter-like cask beer called Orkney’s Ember 80.

The timing of our trip was fortuitous: The pubs were fully stocked with fresh ale for the anticipated onslaught of thirsty sports fans. The final of the Six Nations rugby series was scheduled for that weekend, and the championship match featured arch-rivals England and Scotland. What better place to watch the game than a Scottish pub? In a major upset, Scotland came out on top, prompting the population of the pub (and all of Scotland, for that matter) into a jovial celebration of national pride. We hoisted a pint with the locals, toasting the rugby team and the beer-tasting adventure of a lifetime.

TIPS FROM THE MASTER

Greg Noonan, author of “Scotch Ale,” gives homebrewers the lowdown

It’s a great time of year to brew the ales of Scotland. Cooler seasonal temperatures make for cooler fermentations, which means less fruity esters. So stop grumbling about the cold and put it to work for you.

The most important thing to remember about Scottish ales is that they are defined by stand-alone maltiness, in contrast to the fruitiness and bitterness of most English ales and the usual hop character of German alts. If you want to brew a credible Scottish ale, take it easy on the hops, pitch an adequate amount of yeast, and ferment at as close to 60 to 65º F as you can manage.

The malty and sweet character that defines the beers of Scotland is achieved by brewing with a simple grain bill of 98 to 100 percent ale malt and up to 2 percent roasted barley. Fresh, flavorful pale malt and unhopped amber malt extract both make excellent bases. Scottish beer kits are available for those who like to keep it simple.

Many brewers like to emphasize the sweetness of these beers with light caramel malt, or they add Munich or melanoidin malt to punch up the maltiness. One or two percent roasted barley gives a characteristic bronze highlight to the color, and a subtle, roasty balance to the sweetness of these lightly-hopped ales. Smoked whiskey malt is another means of balancing out the sweetness if it is used conservatively, so that its intense flavor remains barely discernible. A heavy hand with smoked malt is not traditional, but many brewers appreciate the unique smoky, burnt astringency of a bit of peated malt – if that’s what you’re after, don’t be deterred. If it is not – use less than you think you ought to.
In contrast to the cooler fermentation temperature, a hotter-than-usual mash temperature complements this style. Mash temperatures over 152º F produce progressively more dextrinous worts, giving the beer a sweeter palate and a richer mouthfeel. For most homebrewers, this means heating the mash liquor up 5 to 10º F hotter than usual, for a mash temperature up to 158º F.

The mineral character of the brewing water is not overwhelmingly important. Because the bitterness is subdued, there is no need for sulfates to temper the hop character. Soft to medium-hard waters are ideal for brewing this style, but even hard water can be used without detriment. Some brewers like to add chloride (up to 1-1/4 teaspoon of calcium chloride or 1-1/4 teaspoon of table salt) for the accent it adds to the sweet malty flavor. Chloride, in fact, at 50-100 mg/l, is typical of lowland Scottish waters. Avoid adding gypsum; there is no need for it, and although it may not harm the beer, it won’t improve its flavor either.

Scottish brewers on the whole are not particularly concerned about the hops they use, largely because they have so little influence on the beer flavor, other than an underlying vague bitterness balancing its rich sweetness. That said, they also seem to prefer traditional English hops, with low bitterness and relatively mild flavor characteristics. So as a general rule, avoid using flavorful hops like Cascades, and especially flavorful high-alpha hops. Use low-alpha English or European hops. Don’t use too much!

This style depends on pitching a lot of healthy yeast cells. As with hops, however, the particular strain is not hugely important. What is important is that esters, aromatic alcohols and other flavor compounds associated with yeast’s respiration and reproduction phases are subdued. This can be accomplished by choosing a yeast strain that is known to be relatively “neutral” in flavor impact. It can also be accomplished by pitching a large volume of any ale strain and fermenting at a cooler-than-usual temperature.

Appropriate results are easily achieved by fermenting at 60 to 65º F with any of the readily-available Scottish yeast strains. Fermentation temperature, and a pitching rate up to double that commonly used for fermenting English ales, are higher priorities than the strain itself. Most ale yeast strains will give relatively neutral flavors at 60 to 65º F. If you have to purchase yeast for this brew, then by all means choose a Scottish strain, or one known to emphasize malty-nutty flavors, and buy two.

Scottish beers should not be fermented out two or three days after pitching. The rapid growth and aggressive fermentation necessary to ferment a wort that quickly is going to infuse the beer with fermentation characteristics that are entirely inappropriate to the style. For most yeast strains fermenting in the low 60s, this will not be a problem.

Expect Scottish ales to ferment out within 7 days, and plan to condition them in a secondary for another week or so, to finish off the fermentation and round out the flavor profile. The strong Scotch ales demand that you either have a lot more patience, or a yeast strain that is vigorous at cool temperatures. Primary fermentation itself may take two weeks, and conditioning, for even up to a year, will improve the flavors. At the Vermont Pub and Brewery, we let our Wee Heavy age for 10 months.

Plan on saving bottles of Scotch ale; in vintage comparisons, three-year old Wee Heavy always comes out on top of this year’s brew, and five-year old is preferred. Drink the 60- to 80-shilling ales while they are fresh; lacking hops, and without the immense alcohol of the stronger Scotch ale, they lose their maltiness within six months. So look on the bright side of the darker months and brew a Scottish ale this winter!

Scottish 60-Shilling Ale
(5 gallons)
OG = 1.032 FG = 1.010 IBU = 15

The first impression when drinking this amber-brown ale is a malty nose with just a little hop aroma. The flavor is light malt that may have a touch of smokiness and toastiness. A small amount of roasted barley brings out a soft, complex background. The hop bitterness is quite low, just enough to balance out the malty background. With an original gravity of only 1.030 to 1.034, these are truly “session beers.”

extract with specialty grains
4.25 lbs. amber malt extract syrup
2 oz. smoked malt
4 oz. carapils malt
4 oz. roasted barley malt
1 tsp. Irish moss
3.5 AAU Cascade hop pellets
(1/2 oz. of 7% alpha acid)
Scottish Ale yeast (Wyeast 1728)

Bring 2 quarts of water to 163° F, add crushed grains and hold for 1 hour at 158° F. Strain the grain into a brewpot and sparge with 2 quarts of 170° F water. Add the extract and bring the total volume to 2 gallons with water.

When boiling has begun, add the hops. Total boil time is 60 minutes. Add the Irish moss fifteen minutes before the end of the boil. Chill the hot wort by adding preboiled, cold water to a final volume of 5 gallons. When temperature is below 70° F, pitch yeast and vigorously aerate the wort. Ferment at 60° to 70° F (the closer to 60° F, the better). Transfer to a glass carboy when initial fermentation is complete (approximately 7 days). Leave in the secondary until all signs of fermentation are complete and beer is clear. Bottle with 1-1/4 cup of dry malt extract that has been pre-boiled with a quart of water. After carbonation has been achieved (2 weeks), store the beer at refrigerator temperature. This beer improves with cool storage.

all-grain
5.25 lbs. pale malt
2 oz. smoked malt
4 oz. carapils malt
4 oz. roasted barley
1 tsp. Irish moss
3.5 AAU Cascade hops
(1/2 oz. of 7% alpha acid)
Scottish Ale yeast (Wyeast 1728)

Heat 7 quarts of water to 168° F and add the crushed grain. Adjust the temperature and hold at 157° F for 1 hour. Sparge the grains into the boiling kettle with 8 quarts of 170° F water. Bring the total volume up to 6 gallons.

Bring the mixture to a boil, then add the bittering hops. Total boil is 60 minutes. Fifteen minutes before the end of the boil, add the Irish moss. When the boil is complete, chill to below 70° F and pitch the yeast. Vigorously aerate the wort. Ferment at 65° to 70° F until primary fermentation is complete (approximately 7 days). Transfer to a glass carboy and continue until the fermentation is complete (approximately 2 more weeks).

Transfer wort to a bottling bucket, add 1-1/4 cup of dry malt that has been preboiled with a cup of water. Bottle and let sit at 60° to 70° F for 2 weeks. When carbonation is achieved, store at refrigerator temperature. This beer improves at cool temperatures.

Scottish 70-Shilling Ale
(5 gallons)
OG = 1.038 FG = 1.013 IBU = 22

The Scottish 70-shillings are similar to the 60s, but with a more pronounced malt presence. The original gravity and hop bitterness are a bit higher, and the alcohol content is 3.2 to 3.9 percent by volume, compared to 2.5 to 3.3 percent for a 60-shilling. The 70s are called “heavy” in Scotland, but they actually are a normal alcohol-range beer. It is still considered a “session beer,” but the sessions might be shorter! This style is the most common type seen in the Scottish pubs. They are almost all exclusively hand pulled, with very low carbonation, and are served at about 55° F. I have brewed several Scottish ales in this style with excellent results.  I personally like a touch of smoked grain in the mix.

extract with specialty grains
6 lbs. amber malt extract syrup
2 oz. smoked malt
5 oz. carapils malt
5 oz. roasted barley malt
1 tsp. Irish moss
5.25 AAU Cascade hop pellets
(3/4 oz. of 7% alpha acid)
Scottish Ale yeast (Wyeast 1728)

Bring 2 quarts of water to 163° F, add crushed grains and hold for 1 hour at 158° F. Strain the grain into a brewpot and sparge with 2 quarts of 170° F water. Add the extract and bring up the total volume to 2 gallons with water. When boiling has begun, add the bittering hops. Boil for 1 hour. Add the Irish moss fifteen minutes before the end of the boil. Chill hot wort by adding preboiled, cooled water to a final volume of 5 gallons. When temperature is below 70° F, pitch the yeast and vigorously aerate the wort.

Ferment at 60° to 70° F. Transfer to a secondary vessel (glass carboy) when the initial fermentation is complete (approximately 7 days). Leave in the secondary until fermentation is complete and beer is clear. Bottle with 1-1/4 cup of dry malt extract that has been pre-boiled with a quart of water. After carbonation has been achieved (2 weeks), store the beer at refrigerator temperature. This beer improves with cool storage.

all-grain
6.25 lbs. pale malt
2 oz. smoked malt
6 oz. carapils malt
6 oz. roasted barley
1 tsp. Irish moss
5.25 AAU Cascade hop pellets
(3/4 oz. of 7% alpha acid)
Scottish Ale yeast (Wyeast 1728)

Heat 7 quarts of water to 168° F and add crushed grain. Adjust the temperature and hold at 157° F for 1 hour. Sparge the grains into the boiling kettle with 8 quarts of 170° F water. Bring the volume up to 6 gallons. Bring to a boil, then add the hops. Total boil time is 60 minutes. Fifteen minutes before the end of the boil, add Irish moss.

When the boil is complete, chill to below 70° F and pitch the yeast. Vigorously aerate the wort. Ferment at 60° to 70° F until the primary fermentation is complete (approximately 7 days). Transfer to a glass carboy and continue until the fermentation is complete (approximately 2 more weeks, or until gravity remains constant).

Transfer wort to a bottling bucket and add 1-1/4 cup of dry malt that has been preboiled with a cup of water. Bottle and let sit at 60° to 70° F for 2 weeks. When carbonation is achieved, store at refrigerator temperature. This beer improves at cool temperatures.

Scottish 80-Shilling Ale
(5 gallons)
OG = 1.050 FG = 1.013 IBUs = 29

The Scottish 80, also called an “export” by the BJCP guidelines, is a strong ale by Scottish standards. The export name means that this is an ale with a higher alcohol content (3.9 to 4.9 percent) that was intended to survive trans-Atlantic voyages.

The increased alcohol content of these beers blend well with the toasty and roasty flavors of the grains. Hop bitterness and flavor are subdued enough to make this a malty, but not cloying, brew. Some examples of the 80s may show a hint of  smokiness.

extract with specialty grains
6.5 lbs. amber malt extract syrup
2 oz. smoked malt
6 oz. carapils malt
5 oz. toasted barley malt
1 tsp. Irish moss
7 AAUs Cascade hop pellets
(1 oz. of 7% alpha acid)
Scottish Ale yeast (Wyeast 1728)

Bring 2 quarts of water to 163° F, add crushed grains and hold for 1 hour at 158° F. Strain the grain into a brewpot and sparge with 2 quarts of 170° F water. Add the malt extract and bring up the volume to 2 gallons with water.

When boiling has begun, add the bittering hops. Boil for 1 hour. Add the Irish moss fifteen minutes before the end of the boil. Chill hot wort by adding preboiled, cooled water to reach a final volume of 5 gallons. When temperature is below 70° F, pitch the yeast and vigorously aerate the wort.

Ferment at 60° to 70° F. Transfer to a glass carboy when the initial fermentation is complete (approximately 7 days). Leave in the secondary vessel until fermentation is complete and beer is clear. Bottle with 1-1/4 cup of dry malt extract pre-boiled with a quart of water. After carbonation has been achieved (2 weeks), store the beer at refrigerator temperature. This beer improves with cool storage.

all-grain
8 lbs. pale malt
2 oz. smoked malt
6 oz. carapils malt
6 oz. roasted barley
1 tsp. Irish moss
7 AAU Cascade hop pellets
(1 oz. of 7% alpha acid)
Scottish Ale yeast (Wyeast 1728)

Heat 7 quarts of water to 168° F and add the crushed grain. Adjust the temperature and hold at 157° F for 1 hour. Sparge the grains into the boiling kettle with 8 quarts of 170° F water. Bring the total volume up to 6 gallons. Bring to a boil, then add the bittering hops. Total boil is 60 minutes. Fifteen minutes before the end of the boil, add the Irish moss. When the boil is complete, chill to below 70° F, and pitch the yeast. Vigorously aerate the wort. Ferment at 65° to 70° F until primary fermentation is complete (approximately 7 days). Transfer to a glass carboy and continue until fermentation is complete (approximately 2 weeks).

Transfer wort to a bottling bucket, add 1-1/4 cup of dry malt that has been preboiled with a cup of water. Bottle and let sit at 60° to 70° F for 2 weeks. When carbonation is achieved, store at refrigerator temperature. This beer improves well at cool temperatures.
Wee Heavy
(5 gallons)
OG = 1.080 FG = 1.020 IBU = 30

Strong Scotch ale, also called wee heavy, is a classic “big beer” with a powerful and deeply malty nose and flavor. Secondary to the initial malty blast are smoky and roasted aromas. The flavor is malty and caramel sweet. The body, as you would expect, is as full as it gets. With an OG that ranges from 1.072 to 1.088-plus, the sky’s the limit on these beers.

My own Scotch ales that have done well in competition have had an OG of 1.080 and a FG of 1.020. I even have a small batch of OG 1.100 that is close in flavor and texture to a rich sherry.  Though some of my Scotch ales are too big to meet AHA guidelines, I still savor them. The alcohol content of these big boys range from 6.9 to 8.5 percent and beyond. I recommend a yeast starter of at least two liters. I’ve experimented successfully with small amounts of Belgian aromatic and Special B malt.

extract with specialty grains
9 lbs. dry malt extract
1 lb. carapils malt
4 oz. smoked malt
0.5 lbs. melanoidin malt
4 oz. roasted barley
7.2 AAU Fuggles hop pellets
(2 oz. of 3.6% alpha acid)
1 tsp. Irish moss
Scottish Ale yeast (Wyeast 1728)

Heat 2 quarts of water to 162° F, add the crushed grains, and hold for 1 hour at 158° F. Strain the grain with 2 quarts of 170° F water and add to the pot. Stir in the malt extract with water to reach a total volume of 6 gallons.

Boil is 60 minutes. At the beginning of the boil, add the hops. Add the Irish moss fifteen minutes before the end of boil. The final volume should be 5 gallons. Chill to below 70° F and pitch the yeast. Aerate the wort vigorously. To make a yeast starter, boil two quarts of water with two cups of dry malt extract for fifteen minutes. Chill to below 70° F and add the yeast. I make my starters 6 days ahead of time.

After primary fermentation is complete (approximately 7 days), transfer the wort to a glass carboy. Allow the fermentation to finish for 2 more weeks. When you are sure that the beer is fully fermented (the gravity readings do not change for three days), transfer it to a bottling bucket. Boil 1 pint of water with 1-1/4 cup of dry malt extract for 15 minutes and add this to the bucket. Stir in gently and bottle.

Store the bottled beer for conditioning at 65° to 70° F for 2 weeks. After carbonation has been achieved, store at refrigerator temperature.

all-grain
12 lbs. pale malt
1 lb. carapils malt
4 oz. smoked malt
0.5 lb. melanoidin malt
4 oz. roasted barley
7.2 AAU Fuggles hop pellets
(2 oz. at 3.6% alpha acid)
1 tsp. Irish moss
Scottish Ale yeast (Wyeast 1728)

Heat 15 quarts of water to 168° F, add crushed grains, and hold for 1 hour at 158° F. Sparge with 15 quarts of 170° F water until you reach a volume of 6 gallons. Stop sparging if the specific gravity gets below 1.012. Total boil time is 60 minutes. At the beginning of the boil, add the bittering hops. Total boil time is 60 minutes. Add the Irish moss fifteen minutes before the end of boil. The final volume after the boil should be around 5 gallons.

Chill to below 70° F and pitch the yeast. Aerate the wort vigorously for 5 minutes. To make a yeast starter, boil two quarts of water with two cups of dry malt extract for fifteen minutes. Chill to below 70° F and add the yeast to it. Make the starter 5 or 6 days ahead of time. After the primary fermentation is complete (approximately 7 days), transfer the wort to a glass carboy. Allow the fermentation to finish for 2 more weeks. When you are sure that the beer is fully fermented, transfer it to a bottling bucket and proceed as described above. This type of beer matures well with cold storage. High-gravity Scotch ales age well, and will last for years.
—Recipes by Paul Zocco

Heather Ale

(five gallons)
OG: 1.048 FG: 1.008 IBU: 23

This is a light amber ale with an earthy, aromatic, flowery nose. It has a full malt character and a dry-wine finish. The heather lends a hint of chamomile, mint and lavender. Heather is a perennial ground cover with small flowers that thrives in Zones 4-7. You can buy dried heather at many homebrew shops. The recipe is based on the award-winning Fraoch brewed by Heather Ale Ltd. in Scotland (www.heatherale.co.uk). Hops are optional.

Ingredients

7.25 lbs. Maris Otter malt
1 lb. carapils malt
0.5 lb. crystal malt (20° Lovibond)
0.5 lb. crystal malt (40° Lovibond)
0.125 lb. chocolate malt
3 cups fresh or 1 to 2 cups dry heather flowers
4.2 AAU Fuggles hops (1 oz. of 4.2% alpha)
2.1 AAU Fuggles hops (0.50 oz. of 4.2 % alpha acid)
1 pt. starter of Scottish Ale yeast
(Wyeast 1728 or equivalent)
2/3 cup corn sugar for priming

Step by step

Mash grain in 3 gal. of water at 150° F for 60 min. Sparge with 168° to 170° F water to collect 5.75 gal. of wort. Total boil time is 90 min. After 30 min. of boil, add half of heather. Continue for 60 min. Whirlpool and add second addition of heather or use a hopback. Cool to 69° F to pitch starter. Oxygenate-aerate well. Ferment at 60° to 70° F for seven days then rack to secondary. Continue fermentation for seven days until gravity is about 1.012. Rack, prime and bottle. Age seven more days before drinking.

Extract with grain: Substitute the pale malt for 7 lbs. English pale malt extract syrup. Start with 5 gallons of 150° F water. Steep crushed grain for 30 min. Sparge grains with enough 170° F water to make 5.5 gallons. Heat to boiling and add extract. Total boil is 60 min. At beginning of boil add half of heather. Continue for remaining 60 minutes. Whirlpool and add second addition of heather flowers or use a hopback. Cool to 69° F to pitch starter. Oxygenate-aerate well. Follow fermentation schedule above.

Grozet

(five gallons)
OG: 1.050 FG: 1.012 IBU: 11

Grozet is an old Scottish word for gooseberry. The modern version was recreated by Bruce Williams (who also brews Fraoch heather ale) from a 16th-century monk’s recipe. It’s very pale, with a perfumey nose from the herbs and a champagne-like effervescence. It’s brewed with lager malt, unmalted wheat, bog myrtle (sweet gale) and meadowsweet. Gooseberries are added to the secondary. The herbs are available on the Internet, but getting gooseberries will be challenging unless homebrewers have a bush in the back yard. Cultivation of gooseberries is against the law in some states, since they can harbor white pine diseases. Pectic enzyme and campden tablets are winemaking supplies available from any homebrew store.

Ingredients

0.5 lbs. lager malt
5 lbs. Muntons extra-light dry malt extract
1 lb. dry wheat extract
2.5 AAUs Fuggles hops (0.5 oz. of 5% alpha acid)
2 grams Brewer’s Garden sweet gale (bog myrtle)
0.25 oz. dried meadowsweet leaves
Wyeast 1728 (Scottish Ale) yeast
8 to 10 lbs. fresh gooseberries
1 campden tablet
1 teaspoon pectic enzyme
1.25 cups dry malt extract

Step by step

Three days before brewing, activate yeast pack. Raise 3 gallons water to 160° F. Add crushed lager malt and hold 20 minutes. Strain out grain, add extracts and bring to a boil. Add Fuggles bittering hops and boil 40 minutes. Add sweet gale and meadowsweet to final 20 minutes of boil. Chill wort to 75° F, strain into carboy and add enough cold water to make 5 gallons. Pitch yeast. Ferment at ale temperature until complete. Mash gooseberries and place in 6.5 gallon fermenter bucket. Crush campden tablet over berries. Seal fermenter and wait 24 hours for berries to sanitize. Rack grozet onto berries. Add pectic enzyme to prevent haze. Ferment berries and grozet together for 2 to 4 weeks. Carefully rack grozet off the gooseberries into a carboy. Lager the grozet at 45° to 50° F for 4 to 6 weeks. Prime, bottle and age 4 to 6 weeks at cellar temperature.

Written by Paul Zocco