Article

Brewing Award-Winning Porter

“It is a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma.”
– Winston Churchill, 1939

Sir Winston was referring to Russia, but the same quote could as easily apply to porter, the brownish beer originating in London about 300 years ago. There are few writings describing the origin of the style written anytime near when it was assumed to have been developed, and much later stories often quoted in beer books (including those talking about Ralph Harwood and the blending of “three threads”) have been seriously challenged by modern historians. Beer enthusiasts have endless arguments about the nature of the style, its origin, and even its name. Most records do not even provide a decent description of what the beer actually tasted like, which is probably the most important detail omitted.

The Origin of Porter

Current thinking seems to have coalesced around porter developing as a more heavily hopped and aged version of the strong (in modern terms), sweetish brown ale popular in London through the 17th century. Sometime in the early 1700s, brewers began to age or mature their brown ales for several months at the brewery prior to release to pubs. Aging was done in large wooden casks, known as butts, which was also a term used to describe the beers aged this way. A modern equivalent term might be reserve, although that doesn’t necessarily describe barrel-aging.

English brewers typically mashed their grains multiple times, often splitting fermentation to produce several beers. However, when all the mashes were combined in one beer, the resulting brew was known as an entire. These two terms are why porter was often called entire butt, which described an aged beer made from all the runnings of one mash.

The nourishing beer is said to have been popular with the London working class, particularly the porters who performed many of the loading, unloading, carrying and delivery functions of the day. Later historical accounts (ironically, many of the same ones called into question as inaccurate) mention that this is where the beer got its name. Good thing this naming method isn’t in practice today, or Pabst Blue Ribbon might be called “hipster.”

If this account is to be believed, then where is the controversy today? Can’t we all agree on what porter is? Well, there’s the tricky bit. Beer styles aren’t static, and technical innovations and market forces will always exert their influences. Project these changes across 300 years, and you can imagine the problems.

Most areas of confusion with porter today seem to be derived from a disagreement of a common time and place that is describing the style. To really discuss porter, you first have to answer the two questions: Where
and when?

The Evolution of Porter

One of the first changes evidenced in porter brewing was how it was aged. Brewers learned that they could blend aged porter with fresh porter to produce the characteristic aged flavor. Different accounts mention between one-quarter to one-third aged blended with the remainder fresh (or mild) porter. Descriptions of the aged character often mention a vinous, or wine-like, character, which typically implies an increased acidity level. If the porter was aged in unlined oak casks, some Brettanomyces character might also be assumed to be present (since the word Brettanomyces literally means “British fungus”).

As new malts were developed over time and new brewing instruments invented, the use of brown malt diminished. Grists might involve some combination of pale, amber and brown malts, for instance. The invention of black patent malt in 1817 also had an impact, allowing darker colors to be introduced while using larger percentages of pale malts. The color of porter could be imagined to have changed from dark brown to pale brown to nearly black, depending on the particular grist. Not all brewers in all locations made porter the same way; London brewers were said to prefer to maintain a percentage of brown malt to give a characteristic flavor, while country brewers were more likely to adapt black malt.

Porter became a very popular style, and is believed to be the first beer widely exported to Britain’s colonial possessions (including American colonies) and global trading partners. The Industrial Revolution impacted porter brewing, allowing large-scale breweries to become feasible. Porter became the first industrial beer, and London breweries bragged about the sizes of their aging vats — until one burst in 1814 killing several people. Rodenbach in Belgium still uses similar (although much smaller) vats today.

Porter changed around the mid-1800s in Britain again, when consumer taste for aged beer waned. Porter became a mild or present-use (unaged) beer, although some unscrupulous breweries were known to add various (sometimes poisonous) additives to enhance the flavor or reduce costs. Whether this led to a decline in quality and reputation is subject to speculation, but public tastes were definitely changing. The strength of the beer declined, although before World War I it was still a 1.050-ish beer. WWI lowered the strength further (as with most beers), and porter ceased to be a mainstream English style. It continued to decline and was nearly gone by the end of WWII. Fuller’s is believed to have been the last brewer to make it in the 1950s prior to its reintroduction later in the century.

Porter Elsewhere

Since porter was a widely exported beer in its heyday, many around the world developed a taste for the style. It’s interesting to see how the styles were adapted and changed to suit local production and tastes, and how economic conditions and consumer preferences affected the products when compared to the English experience.

The American colonists preference for porter is well known, and some of our founding fathers were said to be quite the enthusiasts (as well as brewers, if the stories are to be believed). Whether due to supply constraints, burgeoning nationalism, or simple frugality, porter began to be produced domestically, first appearing in Philadelphia and later spreading.

As with other American beer of the era, porter would be made as an ale with various adjuncts such as corn, molasses and sugars. Grists changed over time as in England, and contemporaneous brewing texts refer to high- and low-kilned malts, as well as porter malts being used. When much later German immigrants brought their lager tradition to the states, some breweries began making their porters as lagers to simplify their production techniques. Some porters were reported to simply be a standard lager with the addition of a dark brewing caramel syrup known as porterine.

Prohibition effectively killed most porter (and ale) brewing in America, with only a few Northeast and Mid-Atlantic regional breweries continuing to produce porter. While WWI in England caused gravities to be reduced in beer styles, in the United States Prohibition caused entire styles to be eliminated overnight. When Prohibition ended, significantly fewer breweries were in operation, and most focused on lager production. Some surviving producers are still making porter today, most notably the oldest operating brewery in the US, Yuengling, while others died out as the mass-marketed standard American lagers dominated the landscape through the 1970s.

When English porter was being exported widely, countries along the Baltic Sea were known to enjoy the drink. The export of dark, strong, and sweet beers to Russia is well known, alas with many somewhat dubious stories in modern beer books. In a manner similar to America, local countries along the Baltic eventually developed indigenous production of porter. Today, these beers are collectively called Baltic porters (a relatively modern term, but fitting the style of beer made in many countries). These beers are often made as strong dark lagers, perhaps reminiscent of the strength of original porters.

Porter Reborn

The 1970s were a bleak time worldwide. Economic malaise in the western world, communism on the march, multiple oil embargoes and energy crises, the list goes on. Yet, there were glimmers of hope for porter. Michael Jackson’s World Guide to Beer was published, homebrewing was legalized in the United States, and modern porter was reintroduced into England (1978) and America (1974). The craft beer renaissance that we are experiencing today was just getting started, and porter was one of the rediscovered (and reinvented) styles. Fuller’s reintroduced their London Porter as an export product, before finally releasing it domestically in 2000.

As with many American craft beer styles, American porter blends classic character with modern preferences. Rather than many of the sweeter, more chocolate- and caramel-flavored modern English porters, American craft porters tend to be more bitter and roasted, with increased strength — demonstrating the bolder, more aggressive flavors more common in craft beer today. Modern English porter has a wide range, with historic versions being brewed with old recipes (such as Flag Porter), to malty-sweet versions, to the London-style classics featuring a brown malt flavor. Baltic porters continue to be produced in at least eight countries bordering the Baltic Sea, and can be found in better beer shops in the US.

Brewing Porter

Normally when I write a beer styles article, I spend much more space on how to brew the beers than on the history. However, with such a broad family as porter, I thought it best to review how the style has changed over the years — remember, when you’re making a porter, ask the “when?” and “where?” questions: Historical or modern? English, American or Baltic? What era? What region? Understanding all the variations will let you decide which you’d rather brew.

Modern porter recipes are usually built around a base of pale malt, with crystal and roasted malts supplying much of the character and color. Sweeter versions will have a higher proportion of crystal malts, and tend to emphasize chocolate malt. Roastier versions will often use more black malt, and can have grains with more biscuity flavors. There are many choices of individual grains that can be used within these families. Modern brown malt lends a distinctive flavor to London-style English porters (see a photo of brown malt here).

Historical English versions tend to rely on pale, amber, brown and black malts. Older recipes infrequently mention chocolate or crystal malts. One issue with trying to recreate historical recipes is that the ingredients are different; modern brown malt is not the same as historical brown malt. How different is the taste? That’s not clear, since little in the way of detailed descriptions of historical flavors exist. If using modern malts with historical recipes, be careful to get proper conversion — modern amber and brown malts have no enzymes. Did historical brown malts have a smoky character? Modern brown malt doesn’t. Did vatted porters have a sour, Brettanomyces or oak character? How much? That’s not really known either. If you’re guessing, let your palate be your guide — don’t make something that is undrinkable just because you think you’re being authentic.

Brewing sugars are often used for color and flavor in both English and American recipes. Professional brewing products are often not available for homebrewers, but some can be approximated using Lyle’s golden syrup with a bit of blackstrap molasses (maybe 1–2%) or treacle. Various unrefined brown sugars and light molasses can provide additional character, especially in historic American porters. Darker Belgian syrups often bring much more fruit than is desired (except perhaps in Baltic porters, where they might be very interesting), but might add an interesting accent if used in small amounts.

Hops and yeast tend to be fairly straightforward. Select hops based on the country of origin, and emphasize the bittering additions. Modern American versions might have more of a late hop character. The most important aspect of the bittering addition is to achieve the right balance and overall impression — are you looking for a malty beer, a balanced beer, or a bitter beer? Yeast selection is likewise country-based, typically a malty/fruity English strain or a clean American strain. Lager yeast strains are typically clean and straightforward for historical American porters, but can have an elevated fermentation temperature for the more fruity Baltic porters, if desired.

Modern porter (especially the more malt-balanced English version) is a very adaptable style, and lends itself well to being used with fruit, spice, nuts, smoke, coffee, oak, bourbon, rum, Brettanomyces, honey, chile peppers, and other unusual ingredients. You can play around with any of these recipes to turn them into specialty beers by adjusting the special ingredients.

So perhaps porter has been an elusive style because it has been so flexible and adaptable over the years, changing with available ingredients and consumer tastes and being retooled for local production. It’s a mistake to assume all porters will taste the same, a condition not helped by the fact that most examples are simply labeled “porter.” Understanding the wide range and historical changes of the style will better help you appreciate the beer, and to brew accurate recreations.

Award-Winning Porter Recipes

Gatekeeper Robust Porter

by Curt Stock, St. Paul, Minnesota
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.064 FG = 1.020
IBU = 34 SRM = 47 ABV = 5.9%

This recipe took first place at the Upper Mississippi Mash-out.

Ingredients

6.6 lbs. (3 kg) Maris Otter pale ale malt
2.2 lbs. (1 kg) UK mild ale malt
2.2 lbs. (1 kg) Golden Promise malt
1.1 lbs. (0.48 kg) UK chocolate malt
4.4 oz. (0.13 kg) Belgian aromatic malt
6.5 oz. (0.18 kg) UK medium crystal (55 °L)
3.3 oz. (94 g) UK dark crystal (105 °L)
3.3 oz. (94 g) Belgian Special B malt
2.2 oz. (62 g) Belgian biscuit malt
2.2 oz. (62 g) UK roasted barley
2.2 oz. (62 g) Belgian debittered black malt
2.2 oz. (62 g) Briess Special Roast malt
5 AAU East Kent Golding hops (60 mins.) (1 oz./28 g of 5% alpha acids)
4.2 AAU UK Fuggle hops (25 mins.) (1 oz./28 g of 4.2% alpha acids)
4.2 AAU UK Fuggle hops (5 mins.) (1 oz./28 g of 4.2% alpha acids)
Wyeast 1318 (London III) yeast (1 qt./1 L yeast starter)
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step

Two or three days before brew day, make the yeast starter, aerating the wort thoroughly (preferably with oxygen) before pitching the yeast.

On brew day, mash in the malt at 154 °F (68 °C) in 17 qts. (16 L) of water. Hold at this temperature for 60 minutes. Raise the mash temperature to 170 °F (77 °C), hold for 5 minutes then recirculate. Run off the wort and sparge with water hot enough to keep the grain bed around 170 °F(77 °C). Collect 6.5 gallons (25 L) of wort. (Check that final runnings do not drop below SG 1.010.) Boil wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at times indicated in the ingredients list. Ferment at 72 °F (22 °C).

Gatekeeper Robust Porter

by Curt Stock, St. Paul, Minnesota
(5 gallons/19 L, partial mash)
OG = 1.064 FG = 1.020
IBU = 34 SRM = 47 ABV = 5.9%

Ingredients

1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) light dried malt extract
3.3 lbs. (1.5 kg) light liquid malt extract
1 lb. (0.45 kg) Maris Otter pale ale malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) UK mild ale malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) Golden Promise malt
1.1 lbs. (0.48 kg) UK chocolate malt
4.4 oz. (0.13 kg) Belgian aromatic malt
6.5 oz. (0.18 kg) UK medium crystal (55 °L)
3.3 oz. (94 g) UK dark crystal (105 °L)
3.3 oz. (94 g) Belgian Special B malt
2.2 oz. (62 g) Belgian biscuit malt
2.2 oz. (62 g) UK roasted barley
2.2 oz. (62 g) Belgian debittered black malt
2.2 oz. (62 g) Briess Special Roast malt
5 AAU East Kent Golding hops (60 mins.) (1 oz./28 g of 5% alpha acids)
4.2 AAU UK Fuggle hops (25 mins.) (1 oz./28 g of 4.2% alpha acids)
4.2 AAU UK Fuggle hops (5 mins.) (1 oz./28 g of 4.2% alpha acids)
Wyeast 1318 (London III) yeast (1 qt./1 L yeast starter)
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step

Mash grains at 154 °F (68 °C) in 6 qts. (5.6 L) of water. Hold at this temperature for 60 minutes. Collect 2.25 gallons (8.5 L) of wort. Add water to make at least 3 gallons (11 L) of wort. Stir in the dried malt extract and boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at times indicated in the ingredients list. Add the liquid malt extract in the final 15 minutes of the boil. Chill the wort, transfer to fermenter and top up to 5 gallons (19 L). Aerate the wort and pitch the yeast. Ferment at 72 °F (22 °C).

Gatekeeper Robust Porter

by Curt Stock, St. Paul, Minnesota
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.064 FG = 1.020
IBU = 34 SRM = 47 ABV = 5.9%

Ingredients
6.6 lbs. (3 kg) light liquid malt extract
0.5 lb. (0.23 kg) light dried malt extract
1.1 lbs. (0.48 kg) UK chocolate malt
6.5 oz. (0.18 kg) UK medium crystal (55 °L)
3.3 oz. (94 g) UK dark crystal (105 °L)
3.3 oz. (94 g) Belgian Special B malt
2.2 oz. (62 g) Belgian biscuit malt
2.2 oz. (62 g) UK roasted barley
2.2 oz. (62 g) Belgian debittered black malt
2.2 oz. (62 g) Briess Special Roast malt
5 AAU East Kent Golding hops (60 mins.) (1 oz./28 g of 5% alpha acids)
4.2 AAU UK Fuggle hops (25 mins.) (1 oz./28 g of 4.2% alpha acids)
4.2 AAU UK Fuggle hops (5 mins.) (1 oz./28 g of 4.2% alpha acids)
Wyeast 1318 (London III) yeast (1 qt./1 L yeast starter)
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step

Steep grains in 3 gallons (11 L) of 158 °F (70 °C) water for 30 minutes. Remove grain, add dried malt extract and enough water to make at least 3 gallons (11 L) of wort. Boil wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at times indicated. Keep some boiling water handy and do not let boil volume dip below 3 gallons (11 L). Add liquid malt extract in the final 15 minutes of the boil. Chill wort, transfer to fermenter and top up to 5 gallons (19 L). Aerate wort and pitch yeast. Ferment at 72 °F (22 °C).

London Porter

by Gordon Strong, Beavercreek, Ohio
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.054 FG = 1.016
IBU = 24 SRM = 33 ABV = 5.2%

This recipe took first place at the SODZ British Beer Festival, and is fairly straightforward. It is meant to be in the style of Fuller’s London Porter (my personal favorite), with brown malt being the key flavor ingredient. It was entered in the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) Brown Porter category.

Ingredients

7.4 lbs. (3.4 kg) Maris Otter pale ale malt
13 oz. (0.37 kg) German Munich malt
1.25 lbs. (0.57 kg) UK brown malt
1.4 lbs. (0.65 kg) UK crystal (65 °L)
10 oz. (0.28 kg) UK chocolate malt
5.6 AAU Fuggles hops (60 mins.) (1.4 oz./40 g of 4% alpha acids)
2.4 AAU Fuggles hops (10 mins.) (0.6 oz./17 g of 4% alpha acids)
Wyeast 1968 (London ESB Ale) (1 qt./1 L yeast starter)
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step

Two or three days before brew day, make the yeast starter, aerating the wort thoroughly (preferably with
oxygen) before pitching the yeast.

On brew day, mash in the malt at 153 °F (67 °C) in 17 qts. (16 L) of water. Hold at this temperature for 60 minutes. Raise mash temperature to 170 °F (77 °C), hold for 5 minutes then recirculate. Run off wort and sparge with water hot enough to keep the grain bed around 170 °F (77 °C). Collect 6.5 gallons (25 L) of wort. (Check that final runnings do not drop below SG 1.010.) Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at times indicated in the ingredients list. Ferment at 66 °F (19 °C).

London Porter

by Gordon Strong, Beavercreek, Ohio
(5 gallons/19 L, partial mash)
OG = 1.054 FG = 1.016
IBU = 24 SRM = 33 ABV = 5.2%

Ingredients

3.3 lbs. (1.5 kg) light liquid malt extract
1 lb. (0.45 kg) light dried malt extract
1 lb. (0.45 kg) Maris Otter pale ale malt
4 oz. (0.11 kg) German Munich malt
1.25 lbs. (0.57 kg) UK brown malt
1.4 lbs. (0.65 kg) UK crystal (65 °L)
10 oz. (0.28 kg) UK chocolate malt
5.6 AAU Fuggles hops (60 mins.) (1.4 oz/40 g of 4% alpha acids)
2.4 AAU Fuggles hops (10 mins.) (0.6 oz/17 g of 4% alpha acids)
Wyeast 1968 (London ESB Ale) (1 qt./1 L yeast starter)
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step

Mash the grains at 153 °F (67 °C) in 8 qts. (7.6 L) of water. Hold at this temperature for 60 minutes. Collect 2.25 gallons (8.5 L) of wort. Add water to make at least 3 gallons (11 L) of wort. Stir in the dried malt extract and boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at times indicated in the ingredients list. Add the liquid malt extract in the final 15 minutes of the boil. Chill the wort, transfer to fermenter and top up to 5 gallons (19 L). Aerate the wort and pitch yeast. Ferment at 66 °F (19 °C).

London Porter

by Gordon Strong, Beavercreek, Ohio
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.054 FG = 1.016
IBU = 24 SRM = 33 ABV = 5.2%

Ingredients

3.3 lbs. (1.5 kg) light liquid malt extract
1.6 lbs. (0.74 kg) light dried malt extract
1.25 lbs. (0.57 kg) UK brown malt
1.4 lbs. (0.65 kg) UK crystal (65 °L)
10 oz. (0.28 kg) UK chocolate malt
5.6 AAU Fuggles hops (60 mins.) (1.4 oz/40 g of 4% alpha acids)
2.4 AAU Fuggles hops (10 mins.) (0.6 oz/17 g of 4% alpha acids)
Wyeast 1968 (London ESB Ale) (1 qt./1 L yeast starter)
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step

Steep the grains in 3 gallons (11 L) of 158 °F (70 °C) water for 30 minutes. Remove the grain, add the dried malt extract and enough water to make at least 3 gallons (11 L) of wort. Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at times indicated in the ingredients list. Keep some boiling water handy and do not let boil volume dip below 3 gallons (11 L). Add the liquid malt extract in the final 15 minutes of the boil. Chill the wort, transfer to fermenter and top up to 5 gallons (19 L). Aerate wort and pitch yeast. Ferment at 66 °F (19 °C).

Tips for Success:
One of the keys to brewing a good porter is paying attention to the brewing water. If you are interested in brewing better beers with dark grains, it’s a good idea to get a water report from your municipal water source, or have a sample of your well or spring analyzed.

Brewing with dark grains adds acidity. If your water contains a low level of carbonates, the pH of the wort and beer can drop when brewing a dark beer, making the beer taste thin and acidic. You can counteract this by adding calcium bicarbonate (chalk) or sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). In the “Practical Porter” story from BYO December 2007, Chris Colby explains how to choose between the two: “Adding chalk adds calcium along with the carbonate, and these two partially offset each other in terms of their effect on pH. If your brewing water is deficient in calcium or you only need to make a small adjustment in mash pH, chalk is a good choice. If you already have enough calcium in your water, or you need to make a relatively large change in pH, baking soda may be a better choice. (Note: do not use baking soda that has been used previously to absorb odors from your refrigerator.)”

 

American Robust Porter

by Gordon Strong, Beavercreek, Ohio
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.056 FG = 1.016
IBU = 31 SRM = 30 ABV = 5.2%

This is a more modern take on an American robust porter, although it probably falls in between the BJCP Brown Porter and Robust Porter categories. Note the general similarity with the second recipe in this collection. It also is a nice base beer for a smoked porter; add a half pound of German rauchmalz and lower the bitterness to about 25 IBUs. For a more ‘robust’ American version, double the black malt, add 2 more pounds (0.9 kg) of base malt, and increase the late hops.

Ingredients

3 lbs. (1.36 kg) US 2-row pale malt
3 lbs. (1.36 kg) Maris Otter pale ale malt
3 lbs. (1.36 kg) German Vienna malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) German Munich malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) UK crystal malt (60 °L)
8 oz. (0.23 kg) UK chocolate malt
8 oz. (0.23 kg) wheat malt
4 oz. (0.11 kg) UK black malt
6 AAU Northern Brewer hops (60 mins) (0.75 oz./21 g of 8% alpha acids)
6 AAU Northern Brewer hops (10 mins) (0.75 oz./21 g of 8% alpha acids)
4.5 AAU Cascade hops (2 mins) (0.75 oz./21 g of 6% alpha acids)
Wyeast 1272 (American Ale II™) (1 qt./1 L yeast starter)
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step

Two or three days before brew day, make the yeast starter, aerating the wort thoroughly (preferably with oxygen) before pitching the yeast.

On brew day, mash in the malt at 154 °F (68 °C) in 17 qts. (16 L) of water. Hold at this temperature for 60 minutes. Raise the mash temperature to 170 °F (77 °C), hold for 5 minutes then recirculate. Run off wort and sparge with water hot enough to keep the grain bed around 170 °F (77 °C). Collect 6.5 gallons (25 L) of wort.

Check that final runnings do not drop below SG 1.010. Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at times indicated in the ingredients list. Ferment at 64 °F (18 °C).

Variation: Add 0.5 lbs (0.23 kg) German rauchmalz to the mash and reduce bittering (60 mins.) hops to 0.5 oz. (14 g).

American Robust Porter

by Gordon Strong, Beavercreek, Ohio
(5 gallons/19 L, partial mash)
OG = 1.056 FG = 1.016
IBU = 31 SRM = 30 ABV = 5.2%

Ingredients

3.3 lbs. (1.5 kg) light liquid malt extract
0.75 lb. (0.34 kg) light dried malt extract
3 lbs. (1.36 kg) German Vienna malt
8 oz. (0.23 kg) German Munich malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) UK crystal malt (60 °L)
8 oz. (0.23 kg) UK chocolate malt
4 oz. (0.11 kg) UK black malt
6 AAU Northern Brewer hops (60 mins) (0.75 oz./21 g of 8% alpha acids)
6 AAU Northern Brewer hops (10 mins) (0.75 oz./21 g of 8% alpha acids)
4.5 AAU Cascade hops (2 mins.) (0.75 oz./21 g of 6% alpha acids)
Wyeast 1272 (American Ale II™) (1 qt./1 L yeast starter)
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step

Mash grains at 154 °F (68 °C) in 8 qts. (7.6 L) of water. Hold at this temperature for 60 minutes. Collect 2.25 gallons (8.5 L) of wort. Add water to make at least 3 gallons (11 L) of wort. Stir in the dried malt extract and boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at times indicated in the ingredients list. Add the liquid malt extract in the final 15 minutes of the boil. Chill the wort, transfer to a fermenter and top up to 5 gallons (19 L). Aerate the wort and pitch the yeast. Ferment at 64 °F (18 °C).

American Robust Porter

by Gordon Strong, Beavercreek, Ohio
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.056 FG = 1.016
IBU = 31 SRM = 30 ABV = 5.2%

Ingredients

6.6 lbs. (3 kg) light liquid malt extract
3 oz. (85 g) light dried malt extract
1 lb. (0.45 kg) UK crystal malt (60 °L)
8 oz. (0.23 kg) UK chocolate malt
4 oz. (0.11 kg) UK black malt
6 AAU Northern Brewer hops (60 mins) (0.75 oz./21 g of 8% alpha acids)
6 AAU Northern Brewer hops (10 mins) (0.75 oz./21 g of 8% alpha acids)
4.5 AAU Cascade hops (2 mins.) (0.75 oz./21 g of 6% alpha acids)
Wyeast 1272 (American Ale II™) (1 qt./1 L yeast starter)
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step

Steep the grains in 3 gallons (11 L) of 158 °F (70 °C) water for 30 minutes. Remove the grain, add the dried malt extract, half the liquid malt extract and enough water to make at least 3 gallons (11 L) of wort. Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding the hops at times indicated in the ingredients list. Keep some boiling water handy and do not let the boil volume dip below 3 gallons (11 L). Add the remaining liquid malt extract in the final 15 minutes of the boil. Chill the wort, transfer to fermenter and top up to 5 gallons (19 L). Aerate the wort and pitch yeast. Ferment at 64 °F (18 °C).

Classic American Porter

by Gordon Strong, Beavercreek, Ohio
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.049 FG = 1.014
IBU = 23 SRM = 30 ABV = 4.7%

This is my take on the lagered porters of the Northeast, in the style of Yuengling. It’s important to not have an overtly roasted flavor; licorice-type flavors are desirable, but not burnt. A less bitter version of this beer without the crystal malt will do nicely as a Dark American Lager. It might work in the Brown Porter category, but entering it as a Specialty Beer would work too.

Ingredients

6.5 lbs. (3 kg) US 2-row pale malt
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) US mild malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) flaked maize
12 oz. (0.34 kg) crystal malt (50 °L)
12 oz. (0.34 kg) Weyermann Carafa® Special II
5 AAU Cluster hops (60 mins.) (0.66 oz./19 g of 7.5% alpha acids)
1.5 AAU Cascade hops (10 mins.) (0.25 oz./7 g of 6% alpha acids)
Wyeast 2206 (Bavarian Lager) yeast (1 qt./1 L yeast starter)
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step

Two or three days before brew day, make the yeast starter, aerating the wort thoroughly (preferably with oxygen) before pitching the yeast.

On brew day, mash in the malt at 152 °F (67 °C) in 17 qts. (16 L) of water. Hold at this temperature for 60 minutes. Raise mash temperature to 170 °F (77 °C), hold for 5 minutes then recirculate. Run off wort and sparge with water hot enough to keep the grain bed around 170 °F (77 °C). Collect 6.5 gallons (25 L) of wort. (Check that final runnings do not drop below SG 1.010.) Boil wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at times indicated. Ferment at 50 °F (10 °C). Lager at 34 °F (1 °C) for 8 weeks.

Variation: Add some brewer’s licorice or blackstrap molasses (very small amount, perhaps 1 Tb.)

Classic American Porter

by Gordon Strong, Beavercreek, Ohio
(5 gallons/19 L, partial mash)
OG = 1.049 FG = 1.014
IBU = 23 SRM = 30 ABV = 4.7%

Ingredients

3.3 lbs. (1.5 kg) light liquid malt extract
10 oz. (0.28 kg) light dried malt extract
1 lb. (0.45 kg) US 2-row pale malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) US mild malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) flaked maize
12 oz. (0.34 kg) crystal malt (50 °L)
12 oz. (0.34 kg) Weyermann Carafa® Special II
5 AAU Cluster hops (60 mins.) (0.66 oz./19 g of 7.5% alpha acids)
1.5 AAU Cascade hops (10 mins.) (0.25 oz./7 g of 6% alpha acids)
Wyeast 2206 (Bavarian Lager) yeast (1 qt./1 L yeast starter)
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step

Mash grains at 152 °F (67 °C) in 6 qts. (5.6 L) of water. Hold at this temperature for 60 minutes. Collect 2.25 gallons (8.5 L) of wort. Add water to make at least 3 gallons (11 L) of wort. Stir in dried malt extract and boil wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at times indicated. Add liquid malt extract in the final 15 minutes of the boil. Chill wort, transfer to fermenter and top up to 5 gallons (19 L). Aerate wort and pitch yeast. Ferment at 50 °F (10 °C). Lager at 34 °F (1 °C) for eight weeks.

Classic American Porter

by Gordon Strong, Beavercreek, Ohio
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.049 FG = 1.014
IBU = 23 SRM = 30 ABV = 4.7%

Ingredients

3.3 lbs. (1.5 kg) light liquid malt extract
1.4 lbs. (0.64 kg) light dried maltextract
1 lb. (0.45 kg) corn sugar
12 oz. (0.34 kg) crystal malt (50 °L)
12 oz. (0.34 kg) Weyermann Carafa® Special II
5 AAU Cluster hops (60 mins.) (0.66 oz./19 g of 7.5% alpha acids)
1.5 AAU Cascade hops (10 mins.) (0.25 oz./7 g of 6% alpha acids)
Wyeast 2206 (Bavarian Lager) yeast (1 qt./1 L yeast starter)
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step

Steep grains in 3 gallons (11 L) of 158 °F (70 °C) water for 30 minutes. Remove grain, add dried malt extract and enough water to make at least 3 gallons (11 L) of wort. Boil wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at times indicated. Keep some boiling water handy and do not let boil volume dip below 3 gallons (11 L). Add liquid malt extract and sugar in the final 15 minutes of the boil. Chill wort, transfer to fermenter and top up to 5 gallons (19 L). Aerate wort and pitch yeast. Ferment at 50 °F (10 °C). Lager at 34 °F (1 °C) for eight weeks.

Tips for Success:
It is important to get good attenuation and a relatively clean profile so be sure to oxygenate the wort and pitch an appropriate amount of clean, healthy yeast. Also, be sure to control the fermentation temperature. Jamil Zainasheff advises that holding the temperature steady is important to getting a proper level of attenuation and avoiding off-flavors. Letting the beer go through large temperature swings can result in the yeast flocculating early or producing solventy and/or overly estery beers. If you experience a temperature swing or two, you can optionally try raising the temperature a few degrees near the end of primary fermentation to help the yeast clean up some of the intermediate compounds produced during fermentation.

 

Baltic Porter

by Gordon Strong, Beavercreek, Ohio
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.083 FG = 1.024
IBU = 30 SRM = 54 ABV = 7.8%

I used a variation of this recipe to win an NHC gold , blending it with a sweet blackberry mead to make a Blackberry Baltic Porter. The base beer is delicious on its own, and is a scaled up version of a Carnegie-style porter that won several medals on its own.

Ingredients

7 lbs. (3.2 kg) Maris Otter pale ale malt
3.5 lbs. (1.6 kg) German dark Munich malt
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) UK brown malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) German wheat malt
1.75 lbs. (0.79 kg) Weyermann CaraMunich® II
1.25 lbs. (0.57 kg) UK crystal (90 °L)
8 oz. (0.23 kg) Belgian Special B
12 oz. (0.57 kg) UK chocolate malt
6 oz. (0.17 kg) Weyermann Carafa® special III
1 oz. (30 ml) Black treacle
9 AAU Fuggles hops (60 mins.) (2 oz./57 g of 4.5% alpha acids)
1.8 AAU Hallertauer hops (10 mins.) (0.5 oz./14 g of 3.5% alpha acids)
1.8 AAU Hallertauer hops (2 mins.) (0.5 oz./14 g of 3.5% alpha acids)
Wyeast 2112 (California Lager) yeast (2 qts./2 L yeast starter)
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step

Two or three days before brew day, make the yeast starter, aerating the wort thoroughly (preferably with oxygen) before pitching the yeast.

On brew day, mash in the malt at 151 °F (66 °C) in 17 qts. (16 L) of water. Hold at this temperature for 60 minutes. Raise the mash temperature to 170 °F (77 °C), hold for 5 minutes then recirculate. Run off the wort and sparge with water hot enough to keep the grain bed around 170 °F (77 °C). Collect 6.5 gallons (25 L) of wort. (Check that the final runnings do not drop below SG 1.010.) Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at times indicated. Ferment at 62 °F (17 °C). Lager at 34 °F (1 °C) for 12 weeks.

Baltic Porter

by Gordon Strong, Beavercreek, Ohio
(5 gallons/19 L, partial mash)
OG = 1.083 FG = 1.024
IBU = 30 SRM = 54 ABV = 7.8%

Ingredients

6.6 lbs. (3 kg) light liquid malt extract
5 oz. (0.14 kg) Maris Otter pale ale malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) German dark Munich malt
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) UK brown malt
1.75 lbs. (0.79 kg) Weyermann CaraMunich® II
1.25 lbs. (0.57 kg) UK crystal (90 °L)
8 oz. (0.23 kg) Belgian Special B
12 oz. (0.57 kg) UK chocolate malt
6 oz. (0.17 kg) Weyermann Carafa® special III
1 oz. (30 ml) Black treacle
9 AAU Fuggles hops (60 mins.) (2 oz./57 g of 4.5% alpha acids)
1.8 AAU Hallertauer hops (10 mins.) (0.5 oz./14 g of 3.5% alpha acids)
1.8 AAU Hallertauer hops (2 mins.) (0.5 oz./14 g of 3.5% alpha acids
Wyeast 2112 (California Lager) yeast (2 qts./2 L yeast starter)
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step

Mash grains at 151 °F (66 °C) in 9 qts. (8.5 L) of water. Hold at this temperature for 60 minutes. Collect 2.25 gallons (8.5 L) of wort. Add water to make at least 3 gallons (11 L) of wort. Stir in dried malt extract and boil wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at times indicated. Add liquid malt extract in the final 15 minutes of the boil. Chill wort, transfer to fermenter and top up to 5 gallons (19 L). Aerate wort and pitch yeast. Ferment at 62 °F (17 °C). Lager at 34 °F (1 °C) for 12 weeks.

Baltic Porter

by Gordon Strong, Beavercreek, Ohio
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.083 FG = 1.024
IBU = 30 SRM = 54 ABV = 7.8%

Ingredients

6.6 lbs. (3 kg) light liquid malt extract
1 lb. (0.45 kg) light dried malt extract
1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) UK brown malt
1.75 lbs. (0.79 kg) Weyermann CaraMunich® II
1.25 lbs. (0.57 kg) UK crystal (90 °L)
8 oz. (0.23 kg) Belgian Special B
12 oz. (0.57 kg) UK chocolate malt
6 oz. (0.17 kg) Weyermann Carafa® special III
1 oz. (30 ml) Black treacle
9 AAU Fuggles hops (60 mins.) (2 oz./57 g of 4.5% alpha acids)
1.8 AAU Hallertauer hops (10 mins.) (0.5 oz./14 g of 3.5% alpha acids)
1.8 AAU Hallertauer hops (2 mins.) (0.5 oz./14 g of 3.5% alpha acids
Wyeast 2112 (California Lager) yeast (2 qts./2 L yeast starter)
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step

Steep grains in 3 gallons (11 L) of 158 °F (70 °C) water for 30 minutes. Remove grain, add dried malt extract and enough water to make at least 3 gallons (11 L) of wort. Boil wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at times indicated. Keep some boiling water handy and do not let boil volume dip below 3 gallons (11 L). Add liquid malt extract in the final 15 minutes of the boil. Chill wort, transfer to fermenter and top up to 5 gallons (19 L). Aerate wort and pitch yeast. Ferment at 62 °F (17 °C). Lager at 34 °F (1 °C) for 12 weeks.

Issue: December 2013