Belgian Tripel: A beer deserving respect
There was once a time when I didn’t really appreciate Belgian tripels. They didn’t have the same deep range of malt flavors as dubbels or dark strongs, and often seemed poorly made. The amateur ones I tried were often boozy rocket fuel or sweet, heavy, headache-inducing messes, and the imports were often mishandled and had lost their character. Rather than give up on the style, I decided to visit the source and see if there was more to this beer. In 2006, I spent nearly two weeks visiting breweries in Belgium, sampling as many examples as I could find, and documenting my findings. I was happy to learn that I had it wrong and I was just tasting bad examples.
Perhaps I’m not the only one to misunderstand this style. Given its pale color, many assume that it is just a “normal beer” — yet it is about twice as strong as your average American lager. I remember one brewpub in Southern California telling me in the late 1990s that it was a “puke beer.” I thought they meant something about the yeast character but the brewer shook his head and said that customers didn’t understand its ABV and drank until they got sick. I saw this effect personally in Belgium when a woman in my group asked for a St. Bernardus Witbier and the waiter said they were out but that she could try a St. Bernardus Tripel since they were both blond beers (some Belgians often have a curious notion of beer styles). A half hour later she was sitting there in a dazed stupor and another woman in the group said to her, “you look like you were just slapped by a monk.” A couple crude examples, perhaps, but it shows that this is a style that needs to be understood and respected in order to be appreciated.
Belgian tripel is style 26C in the BJCP (Beer Judge Certification Program) Style Guidelines, within Category 26, Monastic Ale, along with Belgian single, Belgian dubbel, and Belgian dark strong ale. This category was formerly known as Trappist Ale, but we changed the name in the 2021 edition of the guidelines at the request of the International Trappist Association. Their concern is that Trappist is a designation of origin, not a style of beer, and that use of its name might lead some commercial breweries to treat the designation as generic.
The name tripel can also be spelled (and is pronounced) as triple. Don’t argue with people about this point, it’s basically a language choice. I tend to use tripel since in English it should be clear that I’m talking about a beer style and not a baseball play or over-caffeinated espresso, and it is more commonly (but not exclusively) used in Belgium.
Tripel’s History
Religious institutions in Belgium often claim a long history with brewing as part of their tradition. Yet, like the experience of most American breweries during Prohibition, few survived the societal upheavals of the intervening years intact. After the French Revolution, in 1789 the government disbanded religious institutions, something that involved Belgium after the French invaded during the Napoleonic Wars. World War I also had a significant impact when German invaders requisitioned (stole) copper brewing equipment as a raw material for armaments. World War II interrupted operations in many places. So, few monasteries can claim any kind of uninterrupted brewing tradition.
Many of the monasteries became established (or re-established) after Belgian independence in 1830. For example, the famous Trappist monastery Westmalle was raised to Abbey status in 1836 and also constructed a brewery in the same year. It re-opened after World War I in 1922, which is a common theme among many Belgian breweries. The Trappist monasteries who use the Authentic Trappist Product seal must produce beer on the grounds of the monastery under the supervision of monks and must use the proceeds for charitable purposes. That seal not only applies to beer, it is also used on cheese, chocolate, and other products.
The beer known as tripel today has its origins at the Trappist monastery in Westmalle in the Belgian province of Antwerp in northern Belgium.
There are other breweries that make what is known as abbey beer. This is an unregulated term that often implies some kind of religious connotation but none of the beer is made at monasteries. After World War II, starting with Maredsous in 1949, breweries began licensing the names of religious institutions for use in marketing beer. Many of these breweries produce beers of a similar type as those made in Trappist breweries, such as dubbels and tripels. But these breweries are often owned by larger brewing groups (Maredsous is owned by Duvel-Moortgat, Leffe is owned by AB-InBev, Grimbergen and Affligem are owned by Heineken, etc.).
There is a Certified Belgian Abbey Beer seal used by those who make Abbey beers and license the name from religious institutions. It was introduced in 1999 after the Authentic Trappist Product seal was created in 1997. Other breweries make beers called abbey beers with the name of a local saint, some fictitious abbey, or another vaguely religious implication. These designations are meant to identify the origin, not the style, of the beer and should not be given additional meaning.
The beer known as tripel today has its origins at the Trappist monastery in Westmalle in the Belgian province of Antwerp in northern Belgium. Jef Van den Steen wrote in Belgian Trappist and Abbey Beers that Westmalle began brewing a stronger double brown beer in 1922 when they reopened their brewery. He said a new brewery was built in 1933 when they first attempted to brew a stronger beer given the name Tripel. He said the beer was derived from a blond beer that had been sporadically brewed since 1931 and that it was launched as a 9.5% ABV blond beer in 1934. In 1935, it was first bottled in the now-familiar 33cl bottles.
Chimay followed much later with an 8% tripel first made in 1966. Originally called blanche (white, after the color of its bottle cap), its name was changed to avoid confusion with witbier, which was often called blanche as well. In 1986, it was named Cinq Cents (five centuries) when sold in 750 mL corked bottles. Achel added an 8% tripel in 2000. Many abbey breweries produce a tripel in the style of the original Westmalle, generally in the 8.5–9% alcohol range.
The blond beers of this era are generally seen as being a reaction to the introduction of paler Pilsner-type beers and the beginning of the public to favor the lighter-colored beers. This shift in consumer preference is seen throughout the brewing industry of Europe at the time and is not in any way specific to strong monastic beers.
Sensory Profile
A Belgian tripel is a strong, pale, Belgian ale that shows the common features of other monastic beers — they are top-fermenting, have a high degree of attenuation, are bottle-conditioned, and show a fairly aggressive spicy-estery yeast character. The tripel is distinguished from other stronger Belgian beers in that it is fairly bitter (Westmalle is 38 IBUs). While bitter, it does not have a large quantity of late hops (in contrast with the more modern Belgian IPA, for instance) so as to not clash with the yeast-derived aromatics.
A Belgian tripel is a strong beer, usually 8 to 9%, although can reach up to 9.5% ABV. This distinguishes it from the Belgian blond style, which tops out at 7.5% and is usually less bitter (and often less aggressive in its spicy yeast character). As a pale beer (deep yellow to pale-amber), it has flavors derived mostly from Pilsner-type malts — a light, slightly bready- or grainy-sweet or honey-like flavor, perhaps very slightly toasted. This distinguishes it from Belgian dark strong ales of similar strength that have a richer, deeper malt profile, and usually a much more malty balance. The Belgian single style is similarly pale and bitter, but much lower in alcohol (under 6%) and often hoppier.
Belgian tripels have a fairly light body (medium-low to medium) for their strength, have a dry finish, and very high carbonation. The best examples have a deceptive strength, with only a light warming. The high carbonation and attenuation make them quite drinkable and they should never seem heavy, thick, or sweet. The high carbonation often creates a dense, rocky white head with excellent persistence. The bitterness level is somewhat variable – few approach the bitterness of a Westmalle. Any perception of sweetness is usually due to a lower bitterness level in the balance, rather than an actual sugary flavor in the finish.
The yeast and hop character commonly give a spicy, peppery-type flavor more than clove-like phenols. Esters are often citrusy (oranges and lemons) and sometimes ripe banana. Despite mentioning banana and clove, the yeast character is different than a German weissbier. It is much more complex and varied. Hops complement the yeast, adding floral and spicy notes. The alcohol may add a light spiciness as well and also add to the perception of dryness in the finish.
Tripels are most often confused with Belgian golden strong ales, which are modeled after Duvel. Compared to these beers, tripels are a little darker and fuller bodied, but have a different yeast character – much spicier and less estery, and usually have less late hops. While many kinds of yeast can be used in these beers, this is the general distinction.
Brewing Ingredients and Methods
A Belgian tripel recipe can seem deceptively simple. Pilsner malt, white sugar, attenuative Trappist-type yeast, and continental hops. But the Duvel is in the details. With a small number of ingredients, quality matters and brewing choices can have a significant impact.
Pilsner malt (Belgian, French, or German) should form the base of the style. A blend of commercial malts may be used for added complexity. I tend to prefer the Belgian and French maltsters for having a slightly more estery flavor. Dingemans is the brand I saw most frequently used in Belgium. White sugar is used to lighten the body and increase attenuation. In Belgium, this would be white beet sugar. Candi syrups may be used, but for the zero color additions, I don’t see the benefit of a syrup since you aren’t bringing any caramel or fruity flavors. Using around 20% sugar is common and is what I use in my recipes.
Recipe design must be mentioned here. If we are targeting an 8 to 9% ABV beer, many would incorrectly start by thinking in barleywine terms of a high starting gravity. However, I have discovered that the final gravity of the beer is critical in the mouthfeel and perception of dryness. It doesn’t matter how well attenuated your beer is, if it has a high finishing gravity, it will seem sweeter. So, I use the same advice here that I use when making saisons: To finish low, start low. An OG in the 1.070 to 1.080 range will give you an 8.5–9.5% beer if you finish in the 1.008 to 1.010 range.
Sugar alone won’t get you this low; you have to choose a mash program to accentuate attenuation. In these cases, I recommend a step mash with the main saccharification temperature taking place around 143 to 147 °F (62–64 °C). I often use multiple steps, but rest for the longest time in this range. Selecting an attenuative yeast helps, with the strain from the Westmalle brewery being the most obvious choice (widely available in North America as Wyeast 3787 Belgian High Gravity or WLP530 Abbey Ale yeast). I have also had good luck with the Orval strain (minus the Brett), available as White Labs WLP510 Bastogne Belgian Ale yeast.
Belgian yeast strains are often finicky. I use the Wyeast 3787 most frequently and have found that it does not like to be constrained in its fermenting temperature. So, I tend to start it cool and let it free rise in temperature until it is complete. Have a blowoff tube available since this yeast is also quite sticky and tends to create a lot of kräusen that does not seem to want to fall. Many Belgian breweries use the two strains I mentioned under different fermentation conditions. The yeast can give different flavor outcomes (balance and perception of phenols and esters, primarily) based on fermentation temperature, so my recommendation is to experiment with different temperatures and find ones that give an outcome most pleasant to your palate.
The brewing water is not a major driver of this style. It can be made with fairly soft water, although Westmalle’s water is reported to be fairly hard. As long as the mash pH is in the 5.1 to 5.3 range, the outcome should be fine. Adjust your water as you see fit to reach this target.
Homebrew Example
Many people want to create a Westmalle clone when brewing this style, but I actually like the flavor from one modeled on La Rullés Triple, an artisanal brewery located in the town of Tournai in western Belgium. I know for a fact they use Orval yeast — I was at the brewery once when the yeast was delivered from them in a large white bucket. If you can get White Labs WLP510 yeast, give it a try. Otherwise, Wyeast 3787 or SafAle T-58 are reliable alternatives — it won’t be the same profile, but each will definitely give you a tripel.
My base malt is Pilsner malt from a Belgian maltster like Dingemans or Castle. Don’t use a more heavily flavored Pilsner malt, like the Weyermann Floor-Malted Bohemian Pilsner Malt or the Weyermann Barke® Pilsner malt — the flavor will be too biscuity or toasty. I often slip in a little bit of Vienna malt for a bit more richness and color but keep the percentage low. I always will use 20% white beet sugar in my tripel and will use a step mash for attenuation.
At the time I visited La Rullés, I thought they were somewhat unusual in using not only Orval yeast instead of the Westmalle strain, but in also using Amarillo® hops. But they work well together. I also like using Sterling or Saaz hops, as well as Styrian Goldings. Tettnanger would also be a good choice. The combination of Styrian and Saaz appears in many of my Belgian recipes. The extra Amarillo® hops are a nod to La Rullés.
If you are looking for a recipe more like Westmalle tripel, delete the Vienna malt, target the recipe for 9.5% ABV and 38 IBUs, delete the Amarillo® hops, and use Wyeast 3787 yeast. Step mash for attenuation, keep the sugar, and see if you can get the finishing gravity down to 1.008.
For the right Belgian character, take care to let it ferment to completion, then cool condition it for several weeks (46–50 °F/8–10 °C), prime it and bottle condition it warm for several more weeks (68–70 °F/20–21 °C), then age it until the alcohol character is to your liking. This can take six months or more, sometimes. If this seems like a long time, try channeling your inner monk for patience.
Belgian Tripel by the Numbers
OG: 1.075–1.085
FG: 1.008–1.014
SRM: 4.5–7
IBU: 20–40
ABV: 7.5–9.5%
Belgian Tripel
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.072 FG = 1.010
IBU = 34 SRM = 4 ABV = 8.3%
Ingredients
9 lbs. (4.1 kg) Pilsner malt
1 lb. (454 g) Vienna malt
2.5 lbs. (1.1 kg) white sugar
6 AAU Sterling hops (60 min.) (0.75 oz./21 g at 8% alpha acids)
9.5 AAU Amarillo® hops (10 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 9.5% alpha acids)
1 oz. (28 g) Styrian Goldings hops (2 min.)
White Labs WLP510 (Bastogne Belgian Ale), Wyeast 3787 (Belgian High Gravity Ale), or SafAle T-58 yeast
7⁄8 cup corn sugar (for priming)
Step by Step
This recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO) water. Adjust all brewing water to a pH of 5.5 using phosphoric acid. Add 0.5 tsp. of calcium chloride and 0.5 tsp. calcium sulfate to the mash.
This recipe uses a step mash. Use enough water to have a moderately thick mash (1.5 qts./lb. or 3.1 L/kg). Mash in the Pilsner and Vienna malts at 131 °F (55 °C) and hold for 10 minutes. Raise the temperature to 140 °F (60 °C) and hold for 10 minutes. Raise the temperature to 145 °F (63 °C) and hold for 40 minutes. Raise the temperature to 158 °F (70 °C) and hold for 20 minutes. Raise the temperature to 169 °F (76 °C) and recirculate for 15 minutes.
Sparge slowly and collect 6.5 gallons (24.5 L) of wort.
Boil the wort for 90 minutes, adding hops at the times indicated in the recipe. Add the sugar with 15 minutes left in the boil.
Chill the wort to 63 °F (17 °C), pitch the yeast, and ferment until complete, allowing the temperature to rise as much as it wants, rousing the yeast if necessary to complete. Rack to secondary and cold condition for five weeks at 50 °F (10 °C).
Rack the beer again, prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate. Repitching fresh yeast at bottling may be needed if bottle conditioning. Warm condition for three weeks at 70 °F (21 °C). Age at least six months.
Belgian Tripel
(5 gallons/19 L, extract only)
OG = 1.072 FG = 1.010
IBU = 34 SRM = 4 ABV = 8.3%
Ingredients
5.4 lbs. (2.5 kg) Pilsen dried malt extract
2.5 lbs. (1.1 kg) white sugar
6 AAU Sterling hops (60 min.) (0.75 oz./21 g at 8% alpha acids)
9.5 AAU Amarillo® hops (10 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 9.5% alpha acids)
1 oz. (28 g) Styrian Goldings hops (2 min.)
White Labs WLP510 (Bastogne Belgian Ale), Wyeast 3787 (Belgian High Gravity Ale), or SafAle T-58 yeast
7⁄8 cup corn sugar (for priming)
Step by Step
Use 6.5 gallons (24.5 L) of water in the brew kettle; heat to 158 °F (70 °C).
Turn off the heat. Add the malt extract and stir thoroughly to dissolve completely. Turn the heat back on and bring to a boil.
Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at the times indicated. Add the sugar with 15 minutes left in the boil.
Chill the wort to 63 °F (17 °C), pitch the yeast, and ferment until complete, allowing the temperature to rise as much as it wants, rousing the yeast if necessary to complete. Rack to secondary and cold condition for five weeks at 50 °F (10 °C).
Rack the beer again, prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate. Repitching fresh yeast at bottling may be needed if bottle conditioning. Warm condition for three weeks at 70 °F (21 °C). Age at least six months.
