Brewing Traditional Scottish Ales
The beer styles of Scotland have been misunderstood for years. While entire books have been written on these beers, it seems that many brewers and beer enthusiasts have focused on minor points, amplified incorrect information, broadly generalized the country, and taken homebrewer techniques as traditional commercial brewing methods. This really isn’t unique to Scotland, as I’ve seen this occur with other beer styles as well (looking at you, saison). People develop stories that get retold, and inevitably errors creep in.
As the primary author of the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) Style Guidelines, I’ve tried to comprehend the modern styles, taste and characterize their flavor profiles, and understand their histories and production techniques. We’ve revised our guidelines as more sources are published, and tried to correct the mistakes of the past. But the more I read, the more complicated the subject seems to get.
What I have been able to deduce is that the modern versions of traditional Scottish styles are fairly easy to understand and characterize, but the current state doesn’t say anything about what existed historically or how the styles changed over time. I’m not going to delve deeply into history (you’re welcome), but just understand that beer styles aren’t static and that even if styles have existed for a long time it doesn’t mean that the beers always had the same character or were produced in the same way.
Modern Style Overview
There are really only three traditional beer styles broadly available today in Scotland: the 70/- Scottish heavy, the 80/- Scottish export, and the strong Scotch ale (also called a wee heavy). The 60/- Scottish light is very hard to find; few breweries produce it, and it is generally a cask-only style. All these styles took modern form after World War II.
I hear you probably saying, “But there were shilling ales before then! And Scotland was long known for its strong beers.” Yes, that’s true, but the beers today are not the same as in the past. Shilling ales (70/- is pronounced as “seventy shilling”) were originally based on the price of beer in hogshead casks, but there’s no way that would be consistent over time. Scotland (as part of the United Kingdom) no longer even uses shillings as currency. But the name has stuck; about all it says is that bigger numbers mean stronger beers, at least within the same brewery.
Currently, the 60/- is similar to an English dark mild, but at around a 1.030 original gravity. The 70/- is similar to an English ordinary bitter at about 1.035 original gravity, and the 80/- is like an English best bitter at around 1.040 original gravity. The Scottish beers have a different balance and flavor profile, but they fill a similar market position as those English beers.
The strong Scotch ale is much stronger, although not as big as some barleywines. The style has two main variations, a more modest 5% ABV or so beer, and the more widely known 8–9% ABV beer. These two types descended from Edinburgh ales, a stronger, malty beer that was brewed in a range of strengths, similar to Burton ale (although at half the hopping rate). As gravities were lowered over time, some of the variations ceased to be produced.
The BJCP groups Scottish ales in Category 14, and includes the light, heavy, and export styles. The strong Scotch ale is in Category 17 (Strong British Ale) as style 17C, Wee Heavy. Even though they are in different categories based on strength, the four beer styles share some common characteristics.
Characteristics of Scottish Ales
Scottish ales are malty in the balance, darker in color, and fuller in body and residual sweetness. They are generally weaker in strength, although the strong Scotch ale can be quite respectable. The 60/-, 70/-, and 80/- beers have a similar flavor profile, and are often produced through the parti-gyling process. The 60/- is darker due to added coloring, and the 70/- tends to be lighter in color (but still at least amber).
The flavor profile is often described as caramelly, but this does not historically come from crystal malt, which began to be used around World War I. Invert sugar of varying colors provided much of the flavor, similar to how the Belgians produce some of their ales. Caramel coloring adjusted the final color, although black malt and other dark malts such as chocolate malt can provide some of the color now. Roasted barley is not commonly used, as it is in Irish ales.
Some examples of Scottish ales have a faint smoky character, which has often been misunderstood and misinterpreted. It does not come from peat-smoked malt, which Scottish breweries don’t use. Perhaps some are confused by the use of distiller’s malt to make peaty Scotch whisky, particularly those from Islay. The main historical brewing centers were in lowland industrial centers like Edinburgh and Alloa; not where peat is found. Peat-smoked malt produces medicinal phenolic flavors with a strong earthy (dirt-like) character that is totally undesirable in beer. Light use of dark malts is more likely the source.
Scottish ales are often compared to English ales since the latter are more widely known. Since the styles share some common history, tracking the diverging characteristics is interesting. Ron Pattinson, in his blog Shut up about Barclay Perkins, compared historical brewing records to derive some interesting differences between similar beers from the two countries. In general, Scottish beers compared to equivalent English beers, were:
- Weaker (lower original gravity and ABV)
- Lower attenuation
- Less highly hopped
- Higher in residual sweetness (higher final gravity, more body, sweeter balance)
- Darker, often through the additional caramel coloring
- Produced using cooler fermentation temperatures (lower pitch temperature, lower maximum temperature)
- Produced using shorter boil times
Some of these attributes are well known, but some contradict popular conceptions, such as the use of long boil times to caramelize the wort. More of these characteristics have been exaggerated, such as cooler fermentation temperatures meaning lager-like (this appeared in Greg Noonan’s Scotch Ale book). Cool ale temperatures, more like what you would see with Kölsch and altbier, are used for fermentation (59 °F/15 °C, not 50 °F/10 °C, for instance).
One observation I have about the differences in Scottish and English beers is that while there are measurable distinctions, those differences are not huge. According to Pattinson, hopping is maybe 5–10% less, temperatures are a few degrees cooler, and attenuation is 5–6% less — not big differences but enough to affect the balance of the beer and indicate perhaps a national flavor preference.
While some of the stories surrounding Scottish ales seem unsupported, I decided to go back and look at how some earlier beer writers described these beers to see what was so wrong. Turns out, it’s often a matter of interpretation or later emphasis.
In 1988, Michael Jackson wrote in New World Guide to Beer a total of two pages on Scotland. He described Scotland as a cold country that produced full-bodied, malty ales, often dark, in a full range of gravities. He said black malt provided color and dryness, often with crystal malt; however, the largest part of the grist is pale ale malt. Not as attenuated or as heavily hopped as English beers, they are meant to be malty. He noted Belhaven, Caledonian, Younger’s, Maclay, Broughton, and McEwan as well-regarded breweries, with Tennent getting a brief mention as a lager producer. I think all of this is correct.
Looking at Roger Protz and the Real Ale Almanac of 1995, he gave parameters and ingredients for several commercial beers. They show mostly pale ale malt, 1–2% black malt, crystal malt under 5%, and sugar. A few breweries used roasted barley or chocolate malt instead of black malt. Seems fairly consistent.
Greg Noonan, writing the Scotch Ale book in 1991, seems to be the source of some of the confusion but also as providing some good information. For instance, he says the maltiness is not from crystal malt, and that its usage is rare; the beers are rich, sweet, and darker in color; hop flavor is generally not evident; and hop bitterness helps balance residual sweetness. He says that sugar and maize are used, not peat smoked malt. He also says the yeast is not overly fruity, that it under attenuates beer, and that it is flocculent and alcohol-tolerant. I think this all sounds pretty good too.
However, Noonan does say that roasted barley provides the characteristic flavor of Scottish ales and that they use lager-like fermentation regimes. Perhaps because he wrote a book on lager brewing he was using confirmation bias to see what he wanted to see. Or that he used data from a much earlier era when beers were very strong and pitching temperatures were low because they rose so much during fermentation. Unfortunately, Noonan has passed away so he can’t be questioned about how he came to believe this theory. But Ron Pattinson’s analysis of brewing records shows that it wasn’t the case.
So while there are some problems with stories and especially with cause-and-effect, I think many of the earlier writers were fairly accurate in their descriptions. But the creation of recipes using non-traditional techniques and ingredients caused some brewers to misunderstand the history and the nature of Scottish beer. I think it’s fine to identify how Scottish brewers traditionally made beer and then offer modern versions that produce beer with similar flavors, as long as the two concepts aren’t merged.
Producing Scottish Ales
The bulk of the grist of Scottish ales is pale ale malt. Scotland maltsters would produce malt from mostly imported barley, and would produce a slightly darker and more dextrinous malt. Golden Promise is a highly regarded example of this malt, and is one of my favorite base malts. English malts are a good substitute, and I have sometimes used an equal mix of Maris Otter and mild malt.
Corn (either grits or flaked maize) and forms of sugar, typically invert brewing sugars of various color grades, are commonly used. Color adjustment through the use of caramel coloring of the finished beer would complete the recipe, but modern recipes often use some small amounts of dark malt and lower percentages of crystal malt.
Some of the brewing ingredients for Scottish ales can be hard for homebrewers to find, such as dark invert sugars and food-grade caramel coloring. These are often commercial products that aren’t readily available in the United States for homebrewers. However, restaurant supply stores are a good source, or they can be found on the Internet (search for “food-grade caramel coloring”). Caramel coloring adds color and a bit of aroma but very little flavor.
Homebrewers can use 1–3% debittered black malt or other dark grain for similar color adjustment purposes. A light use of dark malts can produce the reddish-copper hues without the undesirable roasted flavors. Roasted barley is not traditional, but at these low levels there is very little flavor difference from black malt. They are mostly there to deepen the color.
Invert sugar is mostly a commercial product, so homebrewers have difficulty acquiring it in the right sizes. Ragus is a commercial supplier, and makes the full range of sugars from the paler No. 1 to the very dark No. 4. Brewers can attempt to make their own invert sugar, which involves adding acid and then cooking the sugar to the right color. Blending golden syrup and blackstrap molasses to the right color can approximate the flavors. Or try substituting available invert syrups for homebrewers, which are used in Belgian beers.
To substitute for invert sugar, try to match the syrup with the approximate color ranges, understanding that EBC is roughly twice SRM in color. If you use syrups from Candi Syrup, Inc. or Dark Candi, Inc., D-45 or Am is like Invert No. 2, and D-90 or D is like Invert No. 3. Lyle’s Golden Syrup is Invert No. 1. The color ranges for the Ragus products are 25–35 EBC for Invert No. 1, 60–70 EBC for Invert No. 2, and 120–140 EBC for Invert No. 3. Caramel coloring by comparison is very concentrated and can have an EBC in the thousands.
The balance of Scottish ales remains malty and somewhat sweet due to a higher finishing gravity, lower alcohol, and lower hopping rates. Sometimes Scottish ale recipes seem deceptively bitter, but remember that the sweeter finishes will mask some of the bitterness. English variety hops can be used, although historically Scottish brewers used imported hops from many sources including England, the United States, and mainland Europe.
Scottish brewers tend to use a single-infusion mash, often with multiple sparges. This differs from the English tradition of using multiple mashes. However, both traditions include parti-gyling to produce multiple beers from the same batch. This is a commercial consideration, so homebrewers can safely make a single mash version without any loss of authenticity.
Higher mash temperatures can assist with producing dextrinous worts that will retain more body after fermentation. Some homebrewers add flaked grains to provide this body without relying on mash control. I think it’s important to note that a higher finishing gravity will give a beer body as well, so perhaps the emphasis on mash temperature is a bit misguided. Yeast and fermentation schedules can play just as important a role.
Jamil Zainasheff in Brewing Classic Styles offers two approaches to brewing Scottish ales, one using caramelization and one using complex malt bills. Neither is really traditional, but they do show the ways that homebrewers have attempted to recreate flavor profiles based on available ingredients. I have used both approaches in my own recipe formulations over the years.
I first read about caramelizing first runnings to produce these flavors in the 1990s online in a post by Scott Abene (aka Skotrat). The method seems to have been inspired by Michael Jackson’s description of Traquair House Ale, and the brewery he called, “the most Scottish of breweries” — despite it being in operation only since 1965. The brewery was said to use a three-hour boil (possibly true, but not typical of other commercial Scottish breweries).
I have used that technique in several beers of varying strengths, including one monster Scotch ale with an OG of 1.140. That was part of an experiment to see how big a beer I could make if I completely filled my (15.5-gallon/59-L) mash tun. I boiled a gallon (4 L) of the first runnings down to a quart (1 L), a concentration of four times. It was delicious, but on occasion the technique did produce buttery flavors that judges mistook for diacetyl from fermentation flaws. If you think about it, this is just another way of producing similar flavors by heating sugar. It’s just not a historically accurate commercial technique for the style.
I also have used the approach of creating complex grists in trying to recreate the flavor profile of Scottish ales, blending multiple grains to achieve complexity (yes, some including peat smoked malt). Approaching recipe formulation in these two ways (sugar syrups or complex grists) is similar to how I’ve built several Belgian beer recipes.
Building flavor profiles by trying to match ingredient flavors with those of the finished beer is a tried and true homebrewer method for recipe formulation. The problem is that when a homebrewer finds a good match, they then make the leap of logic to say that commercial brewers must use the same recipes to make their beers because they taste the same. That’s correlation without causation, a common logic fallacy. Just because things seem related doesn’t mean they have anything to do with one another. However, the opposite is true too — just because brewers didn’t follow traditional methods, doesn’t mean that they can’t produce similar tasting beers. There are often multiple paths to the same destination.
Historical Evolution
Historically (meaning between the 1707 Acts of Union and the 1880 Free Mash Tun Act), Scottish beer and English beer was actually quite similar. The national characteristics of beer began to diverge in the late 1800s, and the change was accelerated by the effects of two world wars in the first half of the 20th century. Laws, taxation, availability of ingredients, and economic conditions took their toll on beer styles, as gravities plunged and styles were eliminated since there was too much overlap.
Scotland at one time had a large export trade, including to England. Its India pale ale was a big export beer to India, and the strong Edinburgh ale was also widely known. After World War I, the strong Scotch ales became highly regarded in Belgium, and has influenced beer styles there to this day (Scotch Silly is a Belgian version of strong Scotch ale, for instance).
Mild ales (not like dark mild, but meaning beers meant to be consumed young) existed in many strengths. These beers were known as shilling ales when bottled, or mild ales when on draft. World War I finally did away with these beers, although the names were later repurposed. The market space for weaker mild was taken by the new 60/-.
Porter was never very popular in Scotland, but stout was more readily found. The Scottish version was fairly sweet, however, as suited to the national palate. Lagers of the Pilsner type became more popular after Tennent’s Lager was introduced in 1889.
After World War II, the slow decline of Scottish breweries began as the British Empire fell apart. Mergers, acquisitions, and outright closures led to a period of consolidation, and coupled with foreign ownership led to many brands being lost. A sad story but not unique to Scotland as this happened in other countries before the craft beer renaissance.
A New Hope
Scotland has a long and proud brewing history, one worth understanding and appreciating. There is a distinctive character to traditional Scottish beer styles that differentiates it from those from England, Ireland, and other nearby countries. While ingredients and production techniques can vary, as long as the final beers fit the characteristic flavor profile, the styles can be preserved.
To that end, below I have provided three Scottish ale recipes that illustrate the various approaches used by homebrewers to achieve the flavors in Scottish beers.
Scottish 60/- Light
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.032 FG = 1.012
IBU = 17 SRM = 18 ABV = 2.5%
Ingredients
4 lbs. (1.8 kg) Golden Promise pale ale malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) flaked maize
1 lb. (0.45 kg) Invert No. 3 sugar or dark
Belgian candi syrup
3 oz. (85 g) debittered black malt
3.4 AAU Fuggle hops (60 min.) (0.75 oz./21 g at 4.5% alpha acids)
0.25 oz. (7 g) Golding hops (5 min.)
White Labs WLP028 (Edinburgh
Scottish Ale), Wyeast 1728 (Scottish Ale), or SafAle US-05 yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
This recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO) water. Adjust all brewing water to a pH of 5.5 using phosphoric acid. Add 1 tsp. calcium chloride to the mash.
Mash the Golden Promise and maize at 158 °F (70 °C) for 60 minutes. Start recirculating wort. Add the black malt and raise the temperature to
168 °F (76 °C) for 15 minutes. Sparge slowly and collect 6.5 gallons (24.5 L) of wort.
Boil the wort for 90 minutes, adding hops at the times indicated in the recipe. Add the invert sugar with 15 minutes left in the boil.
Chill the wort to 59 °F (15 °C), pitch the yeast, and ferment until complete. Rack the beer, prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate.
Scottish 60/- Light
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.031 FG = 1.012
IBU = 17 SRM = 18 ABV = 2.5%
Ingredients
3.3 lbs. (1 kg) Maris Otter liquid pale malt extract
1 lb. (0.45 kg) Invert No. 3 sugar or dark
Belgian candi syrup
3 oz. (85 g) debittered black malt
3.4 AAU Fuggle hops (60 min.) (0.75 oz./21 g at 4.5% alpha acids)
0.25 oz. (7 g) Golding hops (5 min.)
White Labs WLP028 (Edinburgh
Scottish Ale), Wyeast 1728 (Scottish Ale), or SafAle US-05 yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Use 6.5 gallons (24.5 L) of water in the brew kettle; heat to 158 °F (70 °C). Steep the black malt for 15 minutes. Remove and rinse. Turn off the heat. Add the malt extract and stir thoroughly to dissolve completely. You do not want to feel liquid extract at the bottom of the kettle when stirring with your spoon. Turn the heat back on and bring to a boil.
Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at the times indicated in the recipe. Add the invert sugar with 15 minutes left in the boil.
Chill the wort to 59 °F (15 °C), pitch the yeast, and ferment until complete. Rack the beer, prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate.
Scottish 70/- Heavy
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.035 FG = 1.012
IBU = 13 SRM = 13 ABV = 3%
Ingredients
6.5 lbs. (2.7 kg) Golden Promise pale ale malt
6 oz. (170 g) flaked barley
3 oz. (85 g) Caramunich® II malt
1.5 oz. (43 g) pale chocolate malt
1.5 oz. (43 g) roasted barley
3 AAU Fuggle hops (60 min) (0.5 oz./14 g at 5.9% alpha acids)
White Labs WLP028 (Edinburgh
Scottish Ale), Wyeast 1728 (Scottish Ale), or SafAle US-05 yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
This recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO) water. Adjust all brewing water to a pH of 5.5 using phosphoric acid. Add 1 tsp. calcium chloride to the mash.
Mash the Golden Promise and flaked barley at 158 °F (70 °C) for 60 minutes. Start recirculating wort. Add the darker malt and raise the temperature to 168 °F (76 °C) for
15 minutes.
Sparge slowly and collect 6.5 gallons (24.5 L) of wort. Boil the wort for 90 minutes, adding hops at the times indicated in the recipe. Chill the wort to 59 °F (15 °C), pitch the yeast, and ferment until complete. Rack the beer, prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate.
Scottish 70/- Heavy
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.035 FG = 1.012
IBU = 13 SRM = 13 ABV = 3%
Ingredients
4.4 lbs. (2 kg) Maris Otter liquid malt extract
3 oz. (85 g) Caramunich® II malt
1.5 oz. (43 g) pale chocolate malt
1.5 oz. (43 g) roasted barley
3 AAU Fuggle hops (60 min) (0.5 oz./14 g at 5.9% alpha acids)
White Labs WLP028 (Edinburgh Scottish Ale), Wyeast 1728 (Scottish Ale), or SafAle US-05 yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Use 6.5 gallons (24.5 L) of water in the brew kettle; heat to 158 °F (70 °C).
Steep the malts for 30 minutes. Remove and rinse. Turn off the heat. Add the malt extract and stir thoroughly to dissolve completely. You do not want to feel liquid extract at the bottom of the kettle when stirring with your spoon. Turn the heat back on and bring to a boil.
Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at the times indicated in the recipe. Chill the wort to 59 °F (15 °C), pitch the yeast, and ferment until complete. Rack the beer, prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate.
Strong Scotch Ale
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.074 FG = 1.020
IBU = 27 SRM = 19 ABV = 7.1%
Ingredients
9.9 lbs. (4.5 kg) Maris Otter liquid malt extract
5 oz. (142 g) debittered black malt
8.3 AAU Golding hops (60 min) (1.5 oz./43 g at 5.5% alpha acids)
White Labs WLP028 (Edinburgh Scottish Ale), Wyeast 1728 (Scottish Ale), or SafAle US-05 yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Use 6.5 gallons (24.5 L) of water in the brew kettle; heat to 158 °F (70 °C).
Steep the black malt for 15 minutes. Remove and rinse. Turn off the heat. Add the malt extract and stir thoroughly to dissolve completely. You do not want to feel liquid extract at the bottom of the kettle when stirring with your spoon. Turn the heat back on and bring to a boil.
Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding hops at the times indicated in the recipe. You may want to remove 1 gallon (4 L) of wort to boil down to 1 qt. (1 L) as well.
Chill the wort to 59 °F (15 °C), pitch the yeast, and ferment until complete. Rack the beer, prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate.
