Brewing South of the Border Cerveza Mexican-Style Lagers
They seem to be everywhere these days. And I’m not just talking about a certain clear-glassed bottle with a lime sticking out of it. More and more, we’re seeing craft breweries producing versions of these crisp and refreshing beers, which seem to be ideally suited to warm days, sand between the toes, and a sunset barbecue overlooking the ocean — or at least pretending you’re experiencing all of those things. More a beer genre than a beer style, as there are a few base styles of lagers that are popular in this category, these are beers that we should all consider nailing down, because done well it’s the kind of beer that can make anyone and everyone happy, from the most die-hard craft beer crowd to the just-looking-for-a-good-lawnmower-beer folks.
Styles
There isn’t a clear set of guidelines that define what a “Mexican-style lager” is supposed to look like, because there is more than one beer style that can fall into this category. But we certainly have plenty of great examples to help us chart a course. They’re typically in the pale lager family, and some examples (though not necessarily the best ones) are very light in color. This genre also includes darker versions of lagers, which fall more into the neo-Vienna lager camp than the international pale lager camp. Being lagers, they’re also brilliant in clarity, which can be had through aggressive use of finings or by simply letting time do its thing; that “island time” mentality works well here, since while you’re lazing about in the heat, your beer is steadily clarifying in the fridge!
Nearly all lagers that fall into this genre stick to basic light malt flavors. You’ll detect a touch of honey, some pleasant grainy character, and maybe some light melanoidin toastiness in the more “gold” examples. Darker versions add color without adding a lot of rich caramel or toffee flavors, since they’re also designed to be enjoyed as a warm-weather beer; instead you’ll get a bit of caramel and sometimes a hint of roast or dark fruit flavors. Hops are generally used with a light hand, with just enough bitterness to add a little bite and prompt that next sip and just enough flavor and aroma to add a touch of floral or herbal or grass to the overall profile. Some craft brewers are using American hops with these beers, which provides just a bit of tropical fruit. Alcohol level is usually on the lower end of the spectrum, but not always: for example, on page 69 there is a recipe for an imperial lager with a healthy dose of honey. They’re in the same general style neighborhood as other pale lagers, but with flavors that are well-suited to warmer climes.
Recipe Basics
While it may be tempting to go as light as light can go here, don’t feel like you don’t have options. Many of these lagers use a healthy dose of Pilsner malt, but it’s rarely the only player on the stage. Vienna malt will add a touch more bread. Maris Otter can lend a biscuit-like quality to the background. Even darker base malts like Munich are OK, if used with a bit of restraint. Just keep in mind that these are generally meant to be thirst-quenchers, and build your base accordingly. In terms of character malts, you might consider some lighter crystal malts (10–20 °L), and maybe a sprinkling of Victory® or Biscuit to fill out the flavor. Don’t be afraid to consider some flaked corn for a bit of New World flavor! If you find that you’re in need of just a bit more body, you might also consider an addition of a good-quality dextrin malt to add a bit of fullness without adding sweetness. And for amber lagers, you should use a de-husked Carafa® malt to add some color and a bit of dark flavor without overpowering the delicate lighter notes in the beer. Standard versions should be about 4.5–5% ABV, with imperial versions reaching up to about 8% ABV.
Hopping usually holds IBUs down to about 20. Depending on your hop of choice you might be able to yield that all with late hopping, but if necessary a small addition at the start of the boil is fine. In terms of flavor and aroma hopping, traditionally these lagers have origins in Europe, so it’s always going to be a safe bet to use any of the noble hops, such as Tettnanger, Spalt, Hallertauer, and Saaz, for these beers. But of course craft brewers like to experiment, and homebrewers should too! You could try using some American varieties of the classic noble hops (American Hallertau, Liberty, Crystal) to add a floral and slightly fruity note. And for those who like the bright, clear citrus flavors common to many North American beers you can’t go wrong with Amarillo® or Nugget. The most interesting combination might be trying out some of the New Zealand hops now so readily available to homebrewers. Motueka, in particular, has a great lemon-lime flavor that pairs beautifully with this style. I would simply caution you to show some restraint with them to avoid making the beer all about the hops.
Finally, let’s not forget that this is a lager, first and foremost. For yeast, there’s actually a commercially available strain that purports to be that used in the Modelo beers (White Labs WLP 940, Mexican Lager), but most traditional Czech or international pale lager strains will work just fine. The only caveat is that you want to avoid even a hint of sulfur: It can impart an unpleasant harshness to the flavor, especially in lighter examples.
Process
Because these are lagers, patience is generally the name of the game. After brewing, you’ll want to take your time in fermentation. Low and slow is a great advice in smoking and BBQ, and it’s perfect advice for lager brewing! You’ll want to start nice and cool at about 50 °F (10 °C), and hold it there for about the first week. After that, let the temperature start to rise slowly (about 1 degree per day for seven days, then hold) until fermentation is complete, usually about two more weeks. At that point you can cold-crash the temperature to help clarify the beer, package it, carbonate it to about 2.5 volumes, and then lager for 6–8 weeks at near-freezing temperatures. The cold crash and the time spent in lagering will help create the brilliant jewel tones we’re looking for, and if you’ve been sufficiently patient in fermentation you should taste a crisp, clean, clear flavor when you finally pop open your first bottle or tap that keg.
Come One, Come All!
Today’s craft-brewed Mexican-style lagers share a common goal, however you construct them and whichever end of the color spectrum they land on: They’re crowd pleasers. We’ve all faced the challenges of having beer on hand that will satisfy craft fans and those who don’t know they’re craft fans (yet), and there’s no better way to convert your friends and family than by showing them what time and attention and caring can do for beers, and the simpler those beers are (or seem to be), the more impressive it is when they offer a distinct and deliberate flavor profile. Just because they’re light in color and served from an ice-filled bucket doesn’t have to mean they’re not great beers!
These recipes also make great pairings with the casual foods of summer. Offer them up with traditional Mexican dishes, of course — the corn, citrus, and honey flavors are highly complementary to a wide range of regional Mexican specialties — but they also pair very well with grill fare. The spice and heat of barbecued chicken or pulled pork is balanced beautifully by a light and sweet lager. And these beers are practically begging to be paired with a huge range of seafood dishes, from boiled or steamed shrimp (yes, you should steam them in your Mexican-style lager!) to ceviche to shellfish and oysters. There’s no shortage of reasons not to brew one of these lagers for yourself. Try the clone recipes I shared here, and then start getting creative!
Mexican-Style Lager Clone Recipes
Flying Dog Brewery’s Numero Uno clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.045 FG = 1.011
IBU = 13 SRM = 4 ABV = 4.5%
Numero Uno is Flying Dog’s summer seasonal release. Flaked maize makes up one third of the malt bill and highlights the distinctive corn and cracker flavor traditionally found in Mexican lagers.
Ingredients
6 lbs. (2.7 kg) 2-row pale malt
3 lbs. (1.4 kg) flaked maize
4 oz. (113 g) Munich malt (10 °L)
1 oz. (30 mL) agave nectar (15 min.)
7 g lime peel (secondary)
2.5 AAU Amarillo® hops (60 min.)
(0.25 oz./7 g at 10% alpha acids)
4 AAU Saaz hops (5 min.)
(1 oz./28 g at 4% alpha acids)
White Labs WLP940 (Mexican Lager) or Wyeast 2002 (Gambrinus Lager) yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Mill the grains and mix with 3 gallons (11.4 L) of 163 °F (73 °C) strike water to reach a mash temperature of 151 °F (66 °C). Hold this temperature for 60 minutes. Vorlauf until your runnings are clear. Sparge the grains with 5.5 gallons (20.8 L) and top up as necessary to obtain 6 gallons (23 L) of wort. Boil for 60 minutes, adding hops and agave nectar according to the ingredient list.
After the boil, chill the wort to slightly below fermentation temperature, about 54 °F (12 °C). Aerate the wort with pure oxygen or filtered air and pitch yeast.
Ferment at 54 °F (12 °C) until gravity reaches 1.024, then let the temperature rise to 60 °F (16 °C) until fermentation completes (diacetyl rest). Add lime peel and age to taste (5–7 days). Crash the beer to 35 °F (2 °C) for 48 hours, and bottle or keg the beer and carbonate to approximately 2.25 volumes. After carbonation, lager at near-freezing temperatures for at least six weeks before serving.
Flying Dog Brewery’s Numero Uno clone
(5 gallons/19 L, partial mash)
OG = 1.045 FG = 1.011
IBU = 13 SRM = 4 ABV = 4.5%
Ingredients
3.3 lbs. (1.5 kg) pale liquid malt extract
1 lb. (0.45 kg) 2-row pale malt
1.25 lbs. (0.57 kg) flaked maize
4 oz. (113 g) Munich malt (10 °L)
1 lb. (0.45 kg) corn sugar (60 min.)
1 oz. (30 mL) agave nectar (15 min.)
7 g lime peel (secondary)
2.5 AAU Amarillo® hops (60 min.)
(0.25 oz./7 g at 10% alpha acids)
4 AAU Saaz hops (5 min.) (1 oz./28 g at 4% alpha acids)
White Labs WLP940 (Mexican Lager) or Wyeast 2002 (Gambrinus Lager) yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Bring 1 gallon (4 L) of water to approximately 163 °F (73 °C). Place the crushed malt and flaked maize in a muslin bag and submerge in the water. Temperature should stabilize at 151 °F (66 °C) then hold there for about 60 minutes. Remove the grain bag and place in a colander. Wash the grains with 1 gallon (4 L) hot water. Add the liquid extract while stirring, and stir until completely dissolved. Top up to 6 gallons (23 L) and bring the wort to a boil. Boil for 60 minutes, adding hops, corn sugar and agave nectar according to the ingredient list.
After the boil, chill the wort to slightly below fermentation temperature, about 54 °F (12 °C). Aerate the wort with pure oxygen or filtered air and pitch yeast.
Ferment at 54 °F (12 °C) until gravity reaches 1.024, then let the temperature rise to 60 °F (16 °C) until fermentation completes. Add lime peel and age to taste (5–7 days). Crash the beer to 35 °F (2 °C) for 48 hours, and bottle or keg the beer and carbonate to approximately 2.25 volumes. After carbonation, lager at near-freezing temperatures for at least six weeks before serving.
Tips for Success:
There are some minor diacetyl concerns with this yeast, so be sure to increase your temperatures once the gravity reaches 1.024. As for the contact time/weight on the lime peel, a lot will depend on your limes and process, so continue to taste throughout the post-fermentation period, and when it’s to your liking, package it up.
Indeed Brewing Co.’s Mexican Honey Imperial Lager clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.078 FG = 1.019
IBU = 17 SRM = 6 ABV = 8.2%
This golden-yellow lager with a subtle malt backbone is packed with floral notes of orange blossom and citrus thanks to the use of Mexican orange blossom honey. It has a bright hop flavor and features notes of graham cracker and honeycomb.
Ingredients
6 lbs. (2.7 kg) Pilsner malt
6 lbs. (2.7 kg) Vienna malt
3 lbs. (1.4 kg) Mexican orange blossom honey (whirlpool)
25 AAU Amarillo® hops (5 min.)
(2.5 oz./71 g at 10% alpha acids)
Wyeast 2000 (Budvar Lager) or White Labs WLP800 (Pilsner Lager) yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Mill the grains and mix with 3.75 gallons (14.2 L) of 164 °F (73 °C) strike water to reach a mash temperature of 152 °F (67 °C). Hold this temperature for 60 minutes. Vorlauf until your runnings are clear. Sparge the grains with 3 gallons (11.3 L) and top up as necessary to obtain 6.5 gallons (25 L) of wort. Boil for 90 minutes, adding hops according to the ingredient list. After removing from heat stir the wort into a whirlpool, adding/dissolving honey in the process. Let the hot wort settle for 10 minutes. Chill the wort to slightly below fermentation temperature, about 48 °F (9 °C). Aerate the wort with pure oxygen or filtered air and pitch yeast.
Ferment at 50 °F (10 °C) for 7 days, then let the temperature rise to 60 °F (16 °C) over 7 days. Crash the beer to 35 °F (2 °C) for 48 hours, and bottle or keg the beer and carbonate to approximately 2.25 volumes. After carbonation, lager at near-freezing temperatures for at least six weeks before serving.
Indeed Brewing Co.’s Mexican Honey Imperial Lager clone
(5 gallons/19 L, extract only)
OG = 1.078 FG = 1.018
IBU = 17 SRM = 5 ABV = 8.2%
Ingredients
4 lbs. (1.8 kg) Pilsen liquid malt extract
4 lbs. (1.8 kg) Briess Goldpils® Vienna liquid malt extract
3 lbs. (1.4 kg) Mexican orange blossom honey (whirlpool)
25 AAU Amarillo® hops (5 min.)
(2.5 oz./71 g at 10% alpha acids)
Wyeast 2000 (Budvar Lager) or White Labs WLP800 (Pilsner Lager) yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Bring 5.4 gallons (20.4 L) of water to approximately 162 °F (72 °C). Add liquid extract while stirring, and stir until completely dissolved. Bring the wort to a boil. Boil for 60 minutes, adding hops according to the ingredient list. After removing from heat stir the wort into a whirlpool, adding/dissolving honey in the process. Let the hot wort settle for 10 minutes. Chill the wort to slightly below fermentation temperature, about 48 °F (9 °C). Aerate the wort with pure oxygen or filtered air and pitch yeast.
Ferment at 50 °F (10 °C) for 7 days, then let the temperature rise to 60 °F (16 °C) over 7 days. Crash the beer to 35 °F (2 °C) for 48 hours, and bottle or keg the beer and carbonate to approximately 2.25 volumes. After carbonation, lager at near-freezing temperatures for at least six weeks before serving.
Tips for Success:
You may adjust the strength of this beer to your own preference — so long as the ratio of grain to honey is 1 pound of honey for every 4 pounds of grain (0.45 kg of honey for every 1.8 kg of grain). Also, be sure to tightly control the initial fermentation temperatures: With a large infusion of simple sugars from the honey, fermentation can yield fusel alcohols if not properly controlled. Ferment on the cooler side of the lager range, to ensure that the beer doesn’t taste “hot.”
Epic Brewing Co.’s Los Locos clone
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.049 FG = 1.012
IBU = 20 SRM = 3 ABV = 4.9%
Inspired by the Mexican cuisine at chef Troy Guard’s Los Chingones restaurant in Denver, Colorado, Los Locos is a sessionable, refreshing lager brewed with corn, natural lime juice, and just a hint of salt. An excellent pairing with any spicy Mexican dish. “Los Locos is the spirit of summer in a can. It’s light, refreshing, and perfect for enjoying on the hammock or with your friends at a raging pachanga,” said Kevin Crompton, Epic’s Brewmaster.
Ingredients
8 lbs. (3.6 kg) Pilsner malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) flaked maize
1 lb. (0.45 kg) Carapils® malt
15 AAU Amarillo® hops (10 min.)
(1.5 oz./43 g at 10% alpha acids)
Sea salt (to taste)
Lime juice (to taste)
White Labs WLP940 (Mexican Lager) or Wyeast 2002 (Gambrinus Lager) yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Mill the grains and mix with 3.2 gallons (12.1 L) of 164 °F (73 °C) strike water to reach a mash temperature of 152 °F (67 °C). Hold this temperature for 60 minutes. Vorlauf until your runnings are clear. Sparge the grains with 5 gallons (19 L) of water and top up as necessary to obtain 6 gallons (23 L) of wort. Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding hops according to the ingredient list.
After the boil, chill the wort to slightly below fermentation temperature, about 52 °F (11 °C). Aerate the wort with pure oxygen or filtered air and pitch the yeast.
Ferment at 54 °F (12 °C) until the completion of primary fermentation, then let the temperature rise to 60 °F (16 °C) for a diacetyl rest. Add lime juice and salt to taste — you may want to create a salt water solution to aid in adjustment/evaluation. Crash the beer to 35 °F (2 °C) for 48 hours, and bottle or keg the beer and carbonate to approximately 2.25 volumes. After carbonation, lager at near-freezing temperatures for at least six weeks before serving.
Epic Brewing Co.’s Los Locos clone
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.049 FG = 1.012
IBU = 20 SRM = 3 ABV = 4.9%
Ingredients
4 lbs. (1.8 kg) Pilsen dried malt extract
1 lb. (0.45 kg) Carapils® malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) corn sugar
15 AAU Amarillo® hops (10 min.)
(1.5 oz./43 g at 10% alpha acids)
Sea salt (to taste)
Lime juice (to taste)
White Labs WLP940 (Mexican Lager) or Wyeast 2002 (Gambrinus Lager) yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Bring 5.4 gallons (20.4 L) of water to approximately 162 °F (72 °C) and hold there. Steep grains for 15 minutes, then remove bag and allow to drain into the wort. Add dried extract and corn sugar while stirring, and stir until completely dissolved. Bring the wort to a boil. Boil for 60 minutes, adding hops according to the ingredient list.
After the boil, chill the wort to slightly below fermentation temperature, about 52 °F (11 °C). Aerate the wort with pure oxygen or filtered air and pitch the yeast.
Ferment at 54 °F (12 °C) until the completion of primary fermentation, then let the temperature rise to 60 °F (16 °C) for a diacetyl rest. Add lime juice and salt to taste – you may want to create a salt
water solution to aid in adjustment/evaluation. Crash the beer to 35 °F (2 °C) for 48 hours, and bottle or keg the beer and carbonate to approximately 2.25 volumes. After carbonation, lager at near-freezing temperatures for at least six weeks before serving.
Tips for Success:
When adding the sea salt and lime juice, start small and build up. They’re easy flavors to overdo, and they should be background notes rather than starring players. Also, if you find that you’re not getting enough citrus kick out of the Amarillo® hops, you can consider adding an additional half-ounce at flame out to boost the tropical/citrus fruit aroma.
