British Golden Ale
by the numbers
OG: 1.038–1.053
FG:1.006–1.012
SRM:2-6
IBU:20–45
ABV:3.8–5.0%
Of all the places with a long brewing tradition, Great Britain has probably seen more changes over the years due to wars, government regulations, market forces, industry trends, changing
consumer tastes, and corporate meddling. It’s hard to even talk about the place without getting into an argument. Technically, Great Britain is the land mass containing England, Scotland, and Wales, while the country is the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (or simply, the UK). The group of islands containing Great Britain and Ireland are called the British Isles, unless you’re Irishand see this as insulting. The British Empire formerly contained all those lands, as well as other colonial assets but two World Wars helped start the demise of colonization that ultimately ended when Hong Kong was handed back to the Chinese. The term Commonwealth is currently used to describe the UK and many of its former colonial territories.
Enough of a history and geography lesson? I didn’t mean to numb you, but I think it’s important to understand the differences in these terms to see why the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) chose the names it did for certain beer styles and categories. Also, it shows that beer isn’t the only thing that changes over time. So let’s return to the present and discuss a relatively modern invention, British golden ale. That name might start another argument, so let’s just say that it’s also called English golden ale, summer ale, British blonde ale, summer bitter, golden bitter, and likely many other similar names.
The style is basically a modern take on English pale ale (or bitter, another argument . . .) and was developed in response to an increasing consumer preference for pale lagers. Note that these are often continental lagers and Pilsners, not the blander American industrial lagers — an important point when discussing the balance of the style. A more contemporary explanation might also suggest the influence of American pale ale in the style, which is ironic since APA was developed from English pale ale.
Regardless of origin, the style is a refreshing, thirst-quenching beer that drinks well in warmer weather but now has a year-round following. It is a pale beer with a hoppy emphasis, but still showing its British roots. There is room for substantial creativity in creating the beer, mostly with hop selection.
British golden ale is style 12A in the 2015 BJCP Style Guidelines, and is a member of the Pale Commonwealth beer category along with Australian sparkling ale and English IPA.
Sensory Profile
The first thing to notice about British golden ale is the color — they are pale, and don’t necessarily have to be as dark as gold. They can be as pale as straw. Clarity is usually very good, and the head is white and restrained. As with many British beers, the head and carbonation vary based on packaging, with cask versions having lower carbonation and less head than bottled versions. The body is light to medium, which enhances drinkability. Alcohol can be a bit higher, in the general 4–5% range, which is strong for many cask beers in the UK but typical of bottled products and imports.
The malt profile is typically restrained, and has less of a distinctly bready-biscuity flavor than traditional bitters. The malt is often bready to slightly grainy, and usually lacks an obvious caramel flavor. The malt is in support of the hops, which are typically more prominent than the malt. The finish is dry to medium-dry, which allows the medium to medium-high bitterness and hop flavor to come through more cleanly and distinctly.
Yeast typically does not provide a large contribution to the flavor profile. Most esters seem to come from the hop choice rather than being yeast-driven. Again, in the paler style of beer, other aspects of the flavor profile are downplayed to allow the hops to take center stage. Diacetyl (butter or butterscotch flavor and aroma) should not be present in any significant quantity.
The hop character can be medium-low to medium-high in the aroma and medium to medium-high in the flavor. The hops are not necessarily English in character, with American, New World, and Saazer (noble) varieties being common. Floral, herbal, earthy, citrusy, and fruity varieties can be found in
any combination, although this style often will feature a single signature hop variety.
While a bitter beer, this is in the context of traditional English bitters, not contemporary American craft beers. This style shouldn’t be thought of as an English session IPA. Drinkability is key, and it shouldn’t taste like hop juice. The balance is more bitter than malty, but don’t take that to the extreme. The balance is probably between an American blonde ale and an American pale ale in hoppiness.
Many Americans think of English pale ales and bitters as having a high caramel flavor, but often this is the result of oxidation. So it’s best to dial back this expectation in English beers in general. Fresh English bitters are often bready-biscuity and fruity, with distinctive floral or earthy English hops. In British golden ales, the breadiness of the malt and the fruitiness of the yeast is toned down, and the hops can take on additional qualities, but that general balance and drinkability is still there.
Brewing ingredients and methods
English ingredients are common for all aspects of this style, except for hops. It’s best to think of hops as a global ingredient for this style. Don’t get me wrong, English hops can be used quite well in this style, but I’m saying that they aren’t a strict requirement.
The base malt for this beer is typically a lower color pale ale or lager malt. I wouldn’t use something as strongly flavored as Maris Otter in this style; it will make the finished beer too biscuity. I personally like to use some Golden Promise malt, but this also can be somewhat strong if used in too high a percentage. Cutting that malt with something more neutral can reduce that bready, biscuity, or toasty character. I often will use some German malts (Pils, Vienna, Munich) in the grist, and wheat of some form can often be found in recipes. The use of other grains is possible (similar to a saison), although I would tend to stick to wheat or maybe a small amount of oats in my formulations.
As an English beer, the use of adjuncts should not be ruled out. Corn can round out the flavor profile, while sugar can lighten the body. Crystal malts are typically avoided, at least those with a higher color. Low color crystal malts can be used to enhance the body and sweetness if used with a light touch, but those with a noticeable caramel, burnt sugar, or dried fruit flavor should be avoided.
Infusion mashes are the English tradition, and that will work well with this style. I wouldn’t worry too much about the conversion temperature — anything in the mid-140s to mid-150s °F (roughly 63 to 69 °C) would work. It depends somewhat on your grist choices and your desired final mouthfeel. I tend to go a bit higher since I don’t want the beer to be too thin.
As yeast doesn’t drive a large part of the finished profile, I would choose a more neutral English yeast and ferment it at restrained temperatures. You don’t want to drive a high ester production, and you should avoid yeasts that have a strong characteristic by-product (such as diacetyl) or those that are overly minerally. Yeast that are described as malty, neutral, or lightly estery would be appropriate.
Flavor active minerals in water should be on the lower end of the spectrum in this style, so I would avoid any significant adjustments. I certainly wouldn’t be giving it a strong sulfate dose (as with Burton salts or gypsum), as I find the sulfur stink can wreak havoc with the hop character (especially if noble-type hops are used). As with most of my beers, I would avoid carbonate-heavy water as that could give a soapy flavor to the hops and a fatness to the mouthfeel.
Hops are the signature ingredient in this style to me, so I pay closer attention to the individual varieties selected and how they are used. English hops that have a citrusy (often orange-like, as in Admiral, Challenger, First Gold, Progress, Pioneer) character are nice, as are floral-spicy noble hops (such as Hallertauer, Tettnanger, Saaz, or the US equivalents such as Crystal, Liberty, Mt. Hood, Santiam, Sterling, Vanguard). American citrusy hops and New World fruity hops are another
way to go (for example, Amarillo®, Citra®, GalaxyTM, MosaicTM, Cascade, Centennial). I would avoid hops that have a strongly woody, piney, or dank quality (Summit, Delta, Chinook, Columbus, Comet), as well as those with a catty or black currant flavor (Simcoe®, Cluster, Brewer’s Gold, Bullion). I don’t think hops with a strongly aggressive character work as well in this style, so be careful about new hops that are too strange.
As this style has a hop-forward presence, the hops can be used in the traditional way of adding during the boil for bitterness, flavor, and aroma, with optional dry hopping. However, I also would use things like first wort hopping, hop bursting, and whirlpool hopping to emphasize the finished hop profile. When I’m shooting for relatively moderate IBUs but want a strong hop character, I tend to recommend moving more of the hop additions to later in the boil. This can also have an impact on the selection of your varieties, as higher alpha acid hops could make the beer too bitter when used in higher concentrations to also get a stronger hop aroma and flavor.
When selecting hops, the first thing I would think about is whether or not I wanted this to be a single-hop beer. Then I’d be looking for a distinctive hop with character that can stand out on its own. When using hops in combination, I look for a pleasant match of characteristics, particularly those that work well with a neutral malt background.
Homebrew Example
I’ll give you a bit of an unorthodox take on the style, since I’m using a few non-traditional ingredients. I’m shooting for a beer in the middle range of the style, something on the smaller side of ABV so it can be a good summer or session beer. I keep the IBUs similar to what I would use for a best bitter, knowing that they’ll be more apparent in this lighter style.
For base malt, I’m going with my favorite Golden Promise but cutting it with some German Vienna malt to add some toasty maltiness without a lot of color. I’m also using flaked maize to give it a rounder flavor with the suggestion of sweetness, and torrified wheat to add a light nutty flavor (which I do to make it seem more English without adding a biscuity flavor). I use a bit of crystal malt to enhance the color and body as well, but without making it taste caramelly.
I’m using First Gold hops from the UK, which have a lovely tangerine flavor, and pairing them with Sterling hops that are like an American Saaz. They have a floral-spicy quality. I use first wort hopping to boost the hop flavor, and hop bursting and whirlpool hops to play up the aroma. I’m dry hopping the beer to boost the hop presence, but I’m not using strongly aggressive varieties.
My yeast choice is Wyeast 1335 (British Ale II), which I find to have a great balanced flavor profile that says “English” without shouting “ENGLISH!” It helps the beer stay English without taking over the finished beer profile.
Like I said, this recipe is a bit unorthodox in that it uses Vienna malt and some lighter crystal malts, and mixes in some Czech-like hops. But the final flavor profile is very much in line with the better examples I’ve tried, and it helps show that you can do a bit of fusion of different brewing styles and cultures to create a modern beer. Enjoy this one fresh; as with most lower gravity styles, it’s best when young.
British Golden Ale
(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.044 FG = 1.011
IBU = 34 SRM = 6 ABV = 4.3%
This recipe is a bit of an unorthodox take on the style in that it uses Vienna malt and some lighter crystal malts, and mixes in some Czech-like hops. But the final flavor profile is very much in line with the better examples of British golden ale that I’ve tried, and it helps show that you can do a bit of fusion of different brewing styles and cultures to create a modern beer. Coming in on the smaller side of ABV, it’s a great beer for the summer or when looking for a session beer.
Ingredients
5 lbs. (2.3 kg) UK Golden Promise malt
2 lbs. (0.9 kg) German Vienna malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) flaked maize
8 oz. (227 g) torrified wheat
6 oz. (170 g) Belgian caramel malt (45 °L)
4 oz. (113 g) Carapils® malt
6 AAU UK First Gold hops (first wort hop) (0.75 oz./21 g at 8% alpha acids)
7 AAU US Sterling hops (5 min.)
(1 oz./28 g at 7% alpha acids)
0.75 oz. (21 g) US Sterling hops (0 min.)
1.25 oz. (35 g) US Sterling hops(dry hop)
0.25 oz. (7 g) UK First Gold hops (dry hop)
Wyeast 1335 (British Ale II) or White Labs WLP022 (Essex Ale) yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Two or three days before brew day, make a 1-qt. (1-L) yeast starter, aerating the wort thoroughly (preferably with oxygen) before pitching the yeast. On brew day, prepare your ingredients; mill the grain, measure your hops, and prepare your water. This recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO) water. Add 1⁄4 tsp 10% phosphoric acid per 5 gallons (19 L) of brewing water, or until water measures pH 5.5 at room temperature. Add 1 tsp. calcium chloride (CaCl2) to the mash.
On brew day, mash in the Golden Promise and Vienna malts and the flaked corn and torrified wheat at 155 °F (68 °C) in 13 qts. (12 L) of water, and hold this temperature for 60 minutes. Raise the temperature by infusion or direct heating to 168 °F (76 °C) to mashout. Add the remaining crystal malts, and recirculate for 20 minutes. Add first wort hops to the brew kettle then fly sparge with 168 °F (76 °C) water until 6.5 gallons (25 L) of wort is collected.
Boil the wort for 75 minutes, adding the hops at times indicated in the recipe. The zero minute hops are added when the heat is turned off. Give the wort a strong stir and then cover and let stand for 20 minutes. This technique is called whirlpool hopping and emphasizes the finished hop profile.
Chill the wort to 66 °F (19 °C).
Oxygenate, then pitch the yeast starter. Ferment at 66 °F (19 °C) until fermentation is complete. Dry hop the beer for 3–5 days at room temperature and then proceed to rack the beer. Prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate to 2.2 volumes.
British Golden Ale
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.044 FG = 1.011
IBU = 34 SRM = 6 ABV = 4.3%
Ingredients
5.7 lbs. (2.6 kg) light liquid malt extract
6 oz. (170 g) Belgian caramel malt (45 °L)
4 oz. (113 g) Carapils® malt
6 AAU UK First Gold hops (FWH)
(0.75 oz./21 g at 8% alpha acids)
7 AAU US Sterling hops (5 min.)
(1 oz./28 g at 7% alpha acids)
0.75 oz. (21 g) US Sterling hops (0 min.)
1.25 oz. (35 g) US Sterling hops (dry hop)
0.25 oz. (7 g) UK First Gold hops (dry hop)
Wyeast 1335 (British Ale II) or White Labs WLP022 (Essex Ale) yeast
2⁄3 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Two or three days before brew day, make a 1-qt. (1-L) yeast starter, aerating the wort thoroughly (preferably with oxygen) before pitching the yeast. Use 6 gallons (23 L) of water in the brew kettle; heat to 158 °F (70 °C). Place the crystal malts in a mesh bag and steep in the hot water for 30 minutes. Remove the mesh bag, then turn the heat off.
Add the liquid malt extract and stir thoroughly to dissolve the extract completely. You do not want to feel liquid extract at the bottom of the kettle when stirring with your spoon. Add the first wort hops.
Turn the heat back on and bring to a boil. Boil the wort for 60 minutes, adding the hops at the times indicated in the recipe. The zero minute hops are added when the heat is turned off. Give the wort a strong stir and then cover and let stand for 20 minutes. This technique is called whirlpool hopping and emphasizes the finished hop profile.
Chill the wort to 66 °F (19 °C). Oxygenate, then pitch the yeast starter. Ferment at 66 °F (19 °C) until fermentation is complete. Dry hop the beer for 3–5 days at room temperature and then proceed to rack the beer. Prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate to 2.2 volumes.
