Wee Heavy: The Strong Scotch Ale

he strong Scotch ale of Scotland, also known as a wee heavy, is an often-misunderstood beer style in several ways. Seen as the big brother to the more common Scottish or shilling ales, they are really derived from different ancestors. While peat is abundant in Scotland, peat-smoked malt is not used in the production of beer, despite what some sources claim. Finally, some (typically, American) homebrewer methods to get a Scottish-like character have been interpreted as being authentic and used by commercial brewers in Scotland — not the case, either. 

I sometimes get into arguments with brewers, and separately with writers and historians, about the nature of Scottish ale (and other beer styles, to be fair). Understanding what ingredients and methods are used by commercial breweries over the years in the evolution of styles is important to trace influences and development paths. But once you understand the desired sensory profile, people should realize that there are many legitimate paths to get that in a finished beer. Using non-traditional ingredients or methods doesn’t automatically mean the result won’t be recognizable. Likewise, authentic doesn’t always equate to best-tasting. Just don’t be too sweeping in your judgments and proclamations about the beer.

A wee heavy is a rich, warming beer with a full-bodied, chewy, sweet malt profile that includes caramel, toffee, and fruity flavors. It reflects a definite Scottish national beer character, one that favors restrained bitterness, lower attenuation, and deeper colors. It is categorized as style 17C Wee Heavy in the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) Style Guidelines in the Strong British Ale category, along with British strong ale, English barleywine, and old ale — all stronger, malty beers from the British Isles. The Scottish ales (light, heavy, and export) are in a separate style category.

History

Scotland is the country north of England on the island of Great Britain. Politically, it is part of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, commonly known as the U.K. The Scots are a different people than the English, but both can be called British. England and Scotland have been politically united since 1707, which had an impact on the development of brewing traditions, although they became more distinct after the Free Mash Tun Act of 1880, which reduced regulations.

Scottish ales have some similarity with English pale ales and mild ales, but the stronger wee heavy is descended from a maltier, stronger beer known as Edinburgh ale, which is more similar to the old Burton ale of England (except not as heavily hopped). Like Burton ales, Edinburgh ales (and wee heavies) were often available in different strengths, although a greater range was available in the past (up to 12% ABV). Today, two gravity ranges are common, a mundane 5–6% beer and a more respectable 8–9% version.

Edinburgh ales were dark, strong, and sweet, and were exported from Edinburgh since before the 1800s. These were called Scotch ale, but this does not mean that they were related to Scotch whisky, peat-smoked malt, or barrel aging. The name wee heavy means little strong (likely meaning a strong beer in a small bottle), but is derived from Fowler’s Wee Heavy, a historical 12 guinea ale. Guinea was a currency, like shilling, and in a similar manner described a price at a certain time for a specific Scottish beer.

If you prefer to call the style strong Scotch ale or simply Scotch ale, that’s a reasonable alternative to wee heavy. It’s then up to you to remember that Scotch ale and Scottish ale are different. Honestly, this is why the BJCP made the choice to call it wee heavy — less chance for confusion. While having a historical foundation, the style has become a modern craft brewing era favorite, taking on a new worldwide life separate from its Scottish roots.

Sensory Profile

As I’ve mentioned, the first and most important point about a wee heavy is that it isn’t just a stronger Scottish ale; it has more richness, sweetness, body, and depth, especially the strength of caramel flavors. I’ve said it’s a bit like a less bitter and hoppy Burton ale, but those are mostly an anachronism, so maybe think of them as a darker, more caramelly English barleywine. While the strength can be as low as 6.5% (and some are even lower), many of the better-known examples are stronger, up to 10%.

The Scottish character is evident in that the beer is darker in color (copper to dark brown) and balanced towards sweetness by keeping the bitterness low. The fermentation is cleaner than most English ales, although there are often esters from the ingredients or higher-gravity fermentation. The mouthfeel is heavier, with a thicker, chewier impression from a medium-full to full body and a dextrinous viscosity. 

The flavor and aroma are malt-focused with a rich, bready-toasty base and a strong caramel-toffee accent. Medium to low esters may be present, with dark or dried fruit being more common. Hop aroma and flavor are typically absent or very low. Roast is rare as well, as the beer should not taste like a porter or stout, but sometimes can have a touch of dryness in the finish from dark grains. The malt flavors can take on a wide range of caramelized sugar and toasted bread notes, in combination.

Stronger versions will often have a noticeable, medium to low alcohol component, although the residual sweetness and body often does a good job of masking this element. The alcohol can provide some of the balance that bitterness provides, since that component is typically low. The finish is usually medium-dry to sweet, although the impression of sweetness is often increased by the lower bitterness and higher esters.

Stronger beers are often aged longer, and Scotch ales are no exception. The longer storage times could lead to an increase in the perceived caramel and fruit notes as minor oxidation takes place. This is not an intentional process, but could contribute to the more caramelly, sweet, fruity examples that those not in Scotland are likely to find as imports.

Brewing Ingredients and Methods

Scottish ales in general are made with a base of pale ale malt and a small amount (2%, maybe) of something dark, like black malt, chocolate malt, or rarely, roasted barley. Brewing sugars and crystal malts are sometimes used for color (as is commercial caramel colorant). Adjuncts such as corn and wheat may be used, but are usually not a large portion of the grist. Pale ale malt often makes up 85% or more of the recipe. And, once again, peat-smoked malt is not used by brewers, only distillers.

The pale ale malt is often British, sometimes even Scottish, but doesn’t have to be the distinctive fancy malt like Maris Otter with robust biscuity flavors. While I often have a preference for Golden Promise malt, that is a more expensive product that is often not used when cheaper generic 2-row pale ale malt is available. 

You may find homebrew recipes using a wide range of crystal malts for caramel and toffee flavors, but these are not as widely used commercially in Scotland. I certainly have created recipes that layer different crystal malt flavors to attempt to replicate the complex commercial flavors I have tasted, and it can work, just know it isn’t traditional. Scottish breweries are more often using dark invert sugars and caramel colorants, which are typically harder for homebrewers in North America to source.

Another homebrew method often discussed is kettle caramelization where first runnings are boiled down to increase the caramel flavors, but this method can sometimes produce buttery flavors mistaken for diacetyl. I like this method, but also note that it isn’t traditional. I look at it as a substitute for some of the invert sugars. Some homebrewers use longer direct-fired boils, which is not a common practice in Scotland (Caledonian once used direct-fire, but not longer boils), although Traquair House (a relatively tiny brewery opened in the 1960s) is known to use a longer two- to three-hour boil. A favorite of beer writer Michael Jackson, the story of this beer could have led to the thought that this practice was more widely used than brewing records support.

Scottish brewers tend to use single-infusion mashes, often with multiple sparges. Commercial brewers may parti-gyle their beers, producing multiple beers from the same mash, although this practice is used more in English beers. Homebrewers can produce beers with a single infusion, often with a higher mash temperature (say, around 152–158 °F or 67–70 °C) to produce a more dextrinous mash, which helps create a less attenuated and sweeter finished beer.

The hopping level for wee heavy seems to me to be less than in Scottish ales, since the finish is often perceived as being sweeter. English varieties are most commonly used, such as Golding and Fuggle for late hopping, and any variety for bittering. I think many U.S. commercial brewers shoot for a lower bitterness level, or increase the maltiness and caramel flavors to affect the balance.

Scottish ale yeast is cool-fermenting, but not as cold as with lagers — it’s more like that of altbier and Kölsch temperatures, around 59 °F (15 °C). The Scottish ale yeast strains available from multiple suppliers are fairly clean, work well at cooler temperatures, clear well, and tend to leave some residual sweetness. If you select a different strain, remember that these are the desirable characteristics to seek. Scottish brewing water is fairly soft, so I would avoid minerally profiles.

Scottish ales are styles where homebrewers love to experiment and build flavor profiles often with non-traditional methods and ingredients. I think that’s a lot of fun, and helps when you can’t get the right ingredients, but don’t be fooled into thinking that just because you hit the desired flavor profile that Scottish brewers must also be using
these methods.

Homebrew Example

While I have made all manner of strong Scotch ales over the years, I think this version strikes a good compromise between strength and drinkability. I really like Traquair House Ale, and this is certainly inspired by it, albeit at a greater strength. It uses homebrew techniques like kettle caramelization, but otherwise is fairly true to commercial techniques Scottish brewers use.

I’m using Golden Promise malt as the base, which is my preference for any Scottish beer. I’ve also made good versions where half the base is an English pale ale malt, and the other half is a more dextrinous malt like mild malt. I’m using about 2% roasted barley for color and a little dryness, which is not generally traditional for Scotch ales but is used in Traquair House Ale. You can use a debittered black malt or something like Carafa® Special III, if you prefer. 

I’m mashing at a higher infusion temperature to give a more dextrinous body, and keeping the bitterness at a lower level to play up the sweetness. A single addition of hops for bitterness is sufficient, and anything British will do. The caramelization of the first runnings will give caramel flavors and a darker color without the use of crystal malt. I’ve made versions of this beer using a variety of crystal malts instead, but that also isn’t a traditional method. But it approximates the desired flavor profile, and that is what matters more to me.

I have always used Wyeast 1728 (Scottish Ale) in my Scottish recipes, and am happy with it. Fermenting it cool is traditional, and the yeast does work well at this temperature. The recipe lists some possible substitutes. Whichever way you decide to go, stick with yeast that are clean and can handle lower temperature fermentations.

I prefer to age my stronger beers for several months to allow the alcohol to mellow, but that’s a personal preference. If you can’t stand to wait, I won’t judge you.